1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3
Locked
 
|
The 1/4" paddle jack on the rear of my K3/100 wiggles much more than other
rear panel jacks. Is this normal? I am afraid that the paddle jack may disconnect from the PCB that it is attached to inside the rig. BTW, the 1/4" key jack next to the paddle jack does not wiggle at all. It only seems to be a problem when I remove the paddle cable and plug from the jack (which is rarely done) and then plug it in again. Thanks for your help and input. Bob Wilderman, K3SRO [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
|
|
Rick,
I just checked the rear panel at the paddle jack area. There is no external lock washer or nut on this outside threaded jack. It may be possible to place a round or hexagonal nut on the outside of the jack on the rear panel. This may help to tighten the jack from the outside of the radio cabinet . I believe that there isn't an internal nut holding this jack. It must be soldered to one of the internal PCB's. If I knew the tread diameter of the paddle jack, I might be able to install a round nut over the threaded shaft of the paddle jack (on the outside). Maybe Elecraft could send me this part. The 1/4" key jack next to the paddle jack is tight with no wiggle. It must also be located on the same PCB. I have to check the assembly manual for this illustration. I only have the operating manual. My K3 was factory built. The paddle jack has been loose since I purchased my K3/100. Perhaps, Don, W3FPR knows what to do? I will also contact Elecraft service as well as Eric. Only the rear portion of the bottom cover needs to be removed (figure 2; page 8 of the K3 manual). It looks like there are 7 screrws which are 3/16" long with no lock washers as well as 3 screws with tooth lock wahsers 1/4" long [10 screws in total]? Bob Wilderman, K3SRO [hidden email] K3/100 SN# 4669 ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Tavan To: Linda and Bob Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 01:11 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3 You could open the rear lower panel and check the soldering on its pins. Then contact [hidden email]. GL & 73, -- Rick Tavan On Jan 31, 2012, at 9:58 AM, "Linda and Bob" <[hidden email]> wrote: Rick, Thanks for you reply. I will check to see if the nut surrounding the jack is tight. My K3/100 was factory built, but you never know if the builder was rushed, hi! Perhaps it became loose in transit. If it is tight and still wiggles, what do you suggest? Bob K3SRO ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Tavan N6XI To: Linda and Bob Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 12:15 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3 It shouldn't wiggle at all. CHeck the nut around its shaft that holds it to the rear panel. /Rick On Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 11:05 AM, Linda and Bob <[hidden email]> wrote: The 1/4" paddle jack on the rear of my K3/100 wiggles much more than other rear panel jacks. Is this normal? I am afraid that the paddle jack may disconnect from the PCB that it is attached to inside the rig. BTW, the 1/4" key jack next to the paddle jack does not wiggle at all. It only seems to be a problem when I remove the paddle cable and plug from the jack (which is rarely done) and then plug it in again. Thanks for your help and input. Bob Wilderman, K3SRO [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Rick Tavan N6XI Truckee, CA ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
|
|
I'd be very careful about putting a nut and washer on the paddle jack
outside the cabinet. The jack is apparently loose or at least not very tightly attached to the circuit board. I cannot remember if there is any mechanical fastener involved with these jacks but i don't think there is. A nut might make things worse, as it might work as a 'jack' screw and pull the jack off the board by it's roots so to speak. It really needs to be assessed to see exactly what is loose, not just guessing, and then do a proper repair. this might mean completely removing the jack, and cleaning up the board, and re-attaching hte jack properly to the circuit board. Be advised that this type of thing can happen if the radio is operated with the radio tilted, and a long plug or possibly a 1/4 to 1/8 adapter and then a long plug used so that the outboard end of the plug where the cable exits is resting on the table with some upward pressure. This could put some upward strain on the connection that after time, begins to work loose. It can also happen if the plug is yanked out of the jack by the cord. I've had the cables get tangled and while trying to unplug one item, something else gets unceremoniously unplugged. Good luck, but don't jump the a quick fix, make sure you're fixing the correct problem. ...bill nr4c On Tue, 31 Jan 2012 13:56:16 -0500, Linda and Bob wrote: > Rick, > I just checked the rear panel at the paddle jack area. There is no > external lock washer or nut on this outside threaded jack. It may be > possible to place a round or hexagonal nut on the outside of the jack > on the rear panel. This may help to tighten the jack from the outside > of the radio cabinet . I believe that there isn't an internal nut > holding this jack. It must be soldered to one of the internal PCB's. > > If I knew the tread diameter of the paddle jack, I might be able to > install a round nut over the threaded shaft of the paddle jack (on > the > outside). Maybe Elecraft could send me this part. The 1/4" key jack > next to the paddle jack is tight with no wiggle. It must also be > located on the same PCB. > > I have to check the assembly manual for this illustration. I only > have the operating manual. My K3 was factory built. The paddle jack > has been loose since I purchased my K3/100. > > Perhaps, Don, W3FPR knows what to do? I will also contact Elecraft > service as well as Eric. > > Only the rear portion of the bottom cover needs to be removed (figure > 2; page 8 of the K3 manual). It looks like there are 7 screrws which > are 3/16" long with no lock washers as well as 3 screws with tooth > lock wahsers 1/4" long [10 screws in total]? > > Bob Wilderman, K3SRO > [hidden email] > > > K3/100 SN# 4669 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Rick Tavan > To: Linda and Bob > Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 01:11 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3 > > > You could open the rear lower panel and check the soldering on its > pins. Then contact [hidden email]. > > > GL & 73, > > -- > Rick Tavan > > On Jan 31, 2012, at 9:58 AM, "Linda and Bob" <[hidden email]> > wrote: > > > Rick, > Thanks for you reply. I will check to see if the nut surrounding > the jack is tight. My K3/100 was factory built, but you never know if > the builder was rushed, hi! Perhaps it became loose in transit. > > If it is tight and still wiggles, what do you suggest? > > Bob > K3SRO > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Rick Tavan N6XI > To: Linda and Bob > Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 12:15 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3 > > > It shouldn't wiggle at all. CHeck the nut around its shaft that > holds it to the rear panel. > > /Rick > > > On Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 11:05 AM, Linda and Bob > <[hidden email]> wrote: > > The 1/4" paddle jack on the rear of my K3/100 wiggles much > more than other > rear panel jacks. Is this normal? I am afraid that the paddle > jack may > disconnect from the PCB that it is attached to inside the > rig. > > BTW, the 1/4" key jack next to the paddle jack does not > wiggle at all. > > It only seems to be a problem when I remove the paddle cable > and plug from > the jack (which is rarely done) and then plug it in again. > Thanks for your > help and input. > > Bob Wilderman, K3SRO > [hidden email] > > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: > http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > > > > -- > Rick Tavan N6XI > Truckee, CA > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: 1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3
|
|
In reply to this post by dlrwild1
Bob,
I can't judge just how much force you are applying nor how loose your jack really is. Yes, there are no external nuts on those jacks, and none are needed. The jack is fully supported by the board, and the holes in the rear panel are oversize to allow easier assembly and allow for mounting tolerances of the jacks to the RF Board. Two things determine how stiff those two 1/4 inch jacks *feel* - first is that some will have the flange of the jack body actually tight against the inside panel surface - in that case it will feel tight because of the friction with the panel. Secondly, the key jack will have more vertical movement than the paddle jack right next to it. If you examine the assembly manual photos carefully, you will see that there is a support screw (and standoff) just to the right of the paddle jack, so that will limit the vertical movement of the paddle jack much more than the key jack (which is further away from any support) - when you attempt to move the key jack, you are actually flexing the RF Board. So bottom line - don't be concerned about it. If you want to put nuts on the jacks, you may do that, but I would not recommend that - If you tighten the nuts enough to pull the jack flange up to the rear panel, you may actually damage the jack or pull it away from its solder pads (and that can damage the solder pads) The RF Board will stand the amount of flexing that is normal with inserting and removing the plugs - it is not designed to withstand a lot of flexing from "repeated demonstrations" to figure out just how much it flexes. Some things are designed to allow for a bit of movement - trying to defeat that movement allowance can cause damage - that is true of many mechanical assemblies including the enclosure design of the K3. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/31/2012 1:56 PM, Linda and Bob wrote: > Rick, > I just checked the rear panel at the paddle jack area. There is no external lock washer or nut on this outside threaded jack. It may be possible to place a round or hexagonal nut on the outside of the jack on the rear panel. This may help to tighten the jack from the outside of the radio cabinet . I believe that there isn't an internal nut holding this jack. It must be soldered to one of the internal PCB's. > > If I knew the tread diameter of the paddle jack, I might be able to install a round nut over the threaded shaft of the paddle jack (on the outside). Maybe Elecraft could send me this part. The 1/4" key jack next to the paddle jack is tight with no wiggle. It must also be located on the same PCB. > > I have to check the assembly manual for this illustration. I only have the operating manual. My K3 was factory built. The paddle jack has been loose since I purchased my K3/100. > > Perhaps, Don, W3FPR knows what to do? I will also contact Elecraft service as well as Eric. > > Only the rear portion of the bottom cover needs to be removed (figure 2; page 8 of the K3 manual). It looks like there are 7 screrws which are 3/16" long with no lock washers as well as 3 screws with tooth lock wahsers 1/4" long [10 screws in total]? > > Bob Wilderman, K3SRO > [hidden email] > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: 1/4" paddle jack rear panel of K3
|
|
In reply to this post by dlrwild1
My bad, Bob. I typed without looking. There is no nut there. See what Don
or Elecraft Support have to say. /Rick On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 10:56 AM, Linda and Bob <[hidden email]>wrote: > ** > Rick, > I just checked the rear panel at the paddle jack area. There is no > external lock washer or nut on this outside threaded jack. It may be > possible to place a round or hexagonal nut on the outside of the jack on > the rear panel. This may help to tighten the jack from the outside of the > radio cabinet . I believe that there isn't an internal nut holding this > jack. It must be soldered to one of the internal PCB's. > -- Rick Tavan N6XI Truckee, CA ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
«
Return to [K3]
|
1 view|%1 views
| Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |