I had asked the list for some help with the KPA100 that I had some trouble
with. I added the 160 module and was getting no power out. After messing about with it, I finally noticed that I was not getting any receive noise on 160 connected to the KPA100 antenna. I pulled the KPA 100 and all worked FB on the base K2. Receive noise and full QRP power out. Finally after slapping my head about no receive on 160, I started looking at the band pass section on the KPA100. I wanted to know whether the relays were engaging or if something was shorted or open. I took my mechanics stethoscope and started listening to the relays. All of the relays in the band pass section would click audibly when that band was selected EXCEPT the 160 relays. Looking at the schematic, it is pin 18 that goes to ground to energize the relays for 160. All of the other outputs were going to ground when those bands were selected except the 160 relay output on pin 18. It stayed at 12V. I checked the input on pin 1 U2 and it was not going to 5 volts like the rest of the inputs. Moving over to the MCU pin 26, it was going to 5 volts and should have been turning the output of U2 pin 18 on. I pulled the board and DOH!! found that I had not soldered pin 1 of U2. Now all is working. Just wanted to let you know as a trouble shooting tip that the RB outs of the MCU U1 need to go to 5 volts when you select that band, this puts 5 volts on the input of U2. This caused the output to go to ground and turn on and latch the relay. Just thought I would pass that along for what it is worth. I am also using a logging program called XMlog. Not that it is my favorite, it is just what I use. I set the rig control to Kenwood. On the packet spot map, you can click on a spot and this will cause the rig to go to that freq and mode. The Kenwood setting works just fine with the K2 for changing bands, modes and freqs. I cannot attest to other functions, but this works fine for me for now. At least I know the K2IO is working on the KPA100. Now all that is left is the audio filter/clock option and this rig will be ready for it's owner. I also got the noise blanker installed and working today as well. I am sure that he will be happy, if I ever let him have it! ;-) Jess AE0CW _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Hi
Elecraft uses the convention that pin one of most components has a round pad and all other pads are rectangular. The round pad at pin one can be easily mistaken for a board feed through and can be missed when soldering. I have made this error several times on the 15 K2's I have built. I now always solder pin one first on all parts to make sure this does not happen (although it still happened on the one I am building now on a relay pin in the VFO) Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jess Gypin" <[hidden email]> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]> Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 11:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] 160 fixed in KPA100 and some tips. <SNIP> I pulled the board and DOH!! > found that I had not soldered pin 1 of U2. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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