#6107 - First Snag
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Hello All,
Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and instructions to something that reminds me of putting toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? Not sure a cave man can do it. Jim ____________________________________________________________________________________Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly.
I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length. There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ... certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the only cave-man in the forum. Mark AD5SS K/2 5340 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Oh, yes, I remember. That blasted bail!
We can buy pre-wound toroids - someone needs to sell a pre-mounted bail! I think I put my bail in a vise and tried to squeeze it down a bit. I also used some of the longer screws to get things started then swapped them out once it was together. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mark Bayern IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly. I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length. There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ... certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the only cave-man in the forum. Mark AD5SS K/2 5340 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Murray-2
Jim:
The way I've successfully done it, and with NO(!) effort, is to install the feet/bail using much longer (say 1") screws... TIGHTEN things down and then, one at a time, replace the long screws with the proper ones. Using the longer screws makes it very easy to get everything in place BEFORE you have to torque things down. Of course, you'll have to supply your own (4) long screws, but it's certainly worth the effort. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 10:25 PM 5/24/2007, you wrote: >Hello All, >Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) >a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and >instructions to something that reminds me of putting >toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can >anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it >take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? > Not sure a cave man can do it. >Jim > > > >____________________________________________________________________________________Be >a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who >knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. >http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469 > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Murray-2
Jim,
Install the first foot and tighten it, and then either: 1) Install the second foot using 'builder provided' long screws - after things are lined up and tightened with the long screws, remove the long ones one at a time and replace them with the proper screws. 2) Use a clamp to compress the bail - compress only enough to permit the screws to be installed, the bail must remain 'springy' or it will be loose and rattle. I use both methods - the clamp head takes a bit of 'figuring' so you can tighten the screws with the clamp attached, but you can combine both methods and make things easier. 73, Don W3FPR Jim Murray wrote: > Hello All, > Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) > a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and > instructions to something that reminds me of putting > toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can > anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it > take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? > Not sure a cave man can do it. > Jim _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Murray-2
VISE - that is the trick. Just force some (SOME)
of the spring width out of the metal item. It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to make it wider again in a Vise. Fred, N3CSY ____________________________________________________________________________________Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Fred,
I believe you are advocating bending a permanent reduction in the bail width with the vise (if not, I have misunderstood you). I do NOT recommend doing that since it results in a loose fitting bail which will be 'floppy'. Using a vise or a clamp to squeeze the bail temporarily while installing the screws is OK, but permanently distorting the bail is not OK IMHO. 73, Don W3FPR Fred (FL) wrote: > VISE - that is the trick. Just force some (SOME) > of the spring width out of the metal item. > > It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small > amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to > make it wider again in a Vise. > > Fred, N3CSY > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. > http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Mark Bayern
One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those
discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it "tourniquet style" to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn together enough to allow it to be attached. Or -- you could dispense with the bail altogether (as I did) and cobble together some taller 'feet' for the front of the radio so that the front sits up about an inch or a little more above the surface upon which it is resting. May not be too good for portable use, but for home use on a desktop it works very well. 73, Dale WA8SRA K2 #3039 Mark Bayern wrote: > IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly. > > I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them > out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length. > > There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about > the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted > thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ... > certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the > only cave-man in the forum. > > Mark AD5SS > K/2 5340 > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Murray-2
Hi Jim,
I just put mine together last weekend. There is quite a bit of tension with the bail. In fact, my aluminum plate is bowed slightly from trying to get the other end of the bail fastened. It flattened when I attached it to the K2. Gary, N7HTS On Thu, 24 May 2007 20:25:58 -0700 (PDT) Jim Murray <[hidden email]> wrote: > Hello All, > Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) > a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and > instructions to something that reminds me of putting > toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can > anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it > take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? > Not sure a cave man can do it. > Jim > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________Be >a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. >Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. > http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469 > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Murray-2
To take a lead from my former ME associates back
at Kodak's CAD group - I think the Elecraft K2 bail, as designed, has too much K and is a tad too long. Decreasing length, ever so little in a vise - makes the whole job and final installation work nicely. I think the idea of temporarily decreasing width with a c-clamp and using LONG screws, is wrong IMHO, as it places a permanent spring force on the lower cabinet cover meterial - which could cause whoknowswhat. I can't imagine operating the bail, in that compression configuration. Bench vise adjustment - takes some mechanical skill, but it works better after process is done. BAIL still operates perfectly. Not rocket science ..... I suspect I decreased bail's width, at ears, by like 1/4" (recall from memory) Fred, N3CSY K2 54xx ____________________________________________________________________________________Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jim Murray-2
-------------- Original message -------------- From: Dale Boresz <[hidden email]> > One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those > discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one > bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it > "tourniquet style" to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn > together enough to allow it to be attached. > I found this technique to work beautifully, no pain no strain. Doug, W6JD _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by dmb@lightstream.net
Hi Guys,
I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new Weller WES51 solder station. Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get the temp right? I read the manual that came with it, but it really didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would come with something that says set the dial here for this temp. I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what setting to use on the dial. Thanks for the help, -Chris ____________________________________________________________________________________Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Weller temp setting for KX1 build
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Chris,
I find a setting of 700 degrees F about right for me. An even better indication is to see how long it takes for solder to flow. If you can achieve a good solder connection in 2 to 3 seconds, that is about the right temperature. If it takes longer for the solder to flow out to a nicely tapered edge where the solder edge is almost invisible on both the solder pad and the component lead, then your temperature is too low - if the solder flows in 1 second or less, then the iron is too hot. Take a look at the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website Builder's Resource page to see what a good solder connection looks like. 73, Don W3FPR Koaps wrote: > Hi Guys, > > I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one > thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new > Weller WES51 solder station. > > Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get > the temp right? > > I read the manual that came with it, but it really > didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would > come with something that says set the dial here for > this temp. > > I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was > suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what > setting to use on the dial. > > Thanks for the help, > -Chris Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: Weller temp setting for KX1 build
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I built all my elecraft stuff with the soldering iron set at about 630-660F. Bigger parts needed more heat, but for almost everything small, and the .020 solder, that heat was enough to give a nice solder connection. I had zero solder problems on all my stuff. Brett N2DTS > > Hi Guys, > > > > I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one > > thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new > > Weller WES51 solder station. > > > > Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get > > the temp right? > > > > I read the manual that came with it, but it really > > didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would > > come with something that says set the dial here for > > this temp. > > > > I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was > > suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what > > setting to use on the dial. > > > > Thanks for the help, > > -Chris > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Koaps
Thanks Don and Brett,
Just the bit of info I needed. Thanks again for the help, I'm really excited about building my KX1. I spend some extra money to make sure nothing goes wrong with ESD(I got a mat, wrist strip, and Monster surge protector with coax hookups, I figured I could use it to ground me and the mat and have ground fault protection for the soldering station). I also got a nice panavise to help with soldering/desoldering. I hope to start in on the build tomorrow, only thing I lack is a dummy load, but I might be able to borrow that from a friend. Thanks again for the help, -Chris ____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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