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Hi Ro :-)
For anyone looking at APPs, these sites might help: Lots of good PP ideas - http://home.comcast.net/~buck0/app.htm Very good supplier out in the US - http://www.qsradio.com/ - N1GNV is really good Good supplier in UK - http://tinyurl.com/2nzu3j - that's my tinyurl, trust it! (CPC are down right now - they are part of Farnell) I looked around and did quite a bit of research before deciding to switch ALL my 12v connections to PP - the only thing left are adapters (phone chargers etc) and even they are plugged into cigar lighter sockets that connect to PPs. I ran 30A cable direct from the battery in the cars to under the dash and have a group of PP's for stuff to plug into. I have 1 -> 3 way adapters etc. I have a number of L/A batt. and they have PPs connected to the post permanently - the float chargers for these NOW have PPs (I leave all my L/As on float). I took the intermittent Molex type Yaesu connector off my FT-859 and replaced with PP (one of the best things I did). I do not yet have a RigRunner yet, but then it's easy to make your own panels up. I'm very pleased that Elecraft have gone the PP route. I bought the 'Deluxe Crimp Tool' from QuickSilver (link above) and it's actually made by West Mountain Radio - you may think $60 is a lot, but believe me, in the UK that would be more like $120 and yes, it's as good as it should be and well worth it IF you are going to make a lot of connectors up. Yes you can solder the odd ones or twos (ok Ron, yes you solder them all), but I found I was having to be very careful not to let solder run up to the contact part. So, I considered I'd be making a couple of 100 crimps over the next few years (must have made 50 in the last 6 months) and thought it worth it. I also bought a whole load of shells (not just red/black), 15 & 30 A terminals, roll pins (don't bother) and lock clips (maybe in a vibro env.) from QuickSilver, but that just took advantage of shipping cost to UK. BTW, whenever I buy anything from CPC, I add a pack of red/black PPs! - I've got about 50 spare pairs right now!! 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- There is no pillow so soft as a clear conscience. -French proverb On 1 Apr 2008, at 19:23, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Ro, AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I say agn, any connector that needs this much care and causes this much discussion abt solder or not, glue or not, solder running into the contacts, etc etc, is a sign of a bad product. LONG LIVE CINCH JONES, or at least Molex and carve this into the stone: NEW IS NOT NECESSARILY BETTER. 73 Charles Harpole [hidden email] > From: [hidden email] > To: [hidden email] > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] APP Connector Weak Spot > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 16:07:02 -0700 > CC: [hidden email] > > Hi David: > > You wrote: > > Yes you can solder the odd ones or twos (ok Ron, yes you solder them > all), but I found I was having to be very careful not to let solder > run up to the contact part. > > -------------------- > > You fixed that with a good crimp tool. For those who solder the terminals > the way to avoid getting solder on the contact is to hold the wire with the > contacts upwards. A small vise or just propping the stripped wires up > against a book or something works that holds the stripped ends steady > pointing upwards works FB. Set each connector on the stripped wire with the > contact UP, adjust the position so they are both aligned to slip into the > shells easily, then apply heat to the metal terminal and feed solder through > the holes near the terminal end until it flows around the inside and into > the wire and connector *away* from the contacts. (I included that hint right > on the instruction sheet.) > > It takes me perhaps 1 minute to attach two terminals to the stripped wires. > Still, if I were doing a LOT of them I'd probably crimp them (with the > expensive tool), especially if I were doing most of them "in the field" away > from the bench. > > My point in posting to the thread was that it's not *necessary* to use a > crimp tool nor does Elecraft recommend one do so over soldering. That's why > the power cable kit assembly instructions say, "Unless you have a > high-quality crimping tool and experience using it, we strongly recommend > you solder the terminals." > > Wayne and Eric added a suggested crimp tool to the connector assembly > instructions for people who did not want to use a soldering iron regardless > of the expense. Even so, it's important to know how to use the tool > correctly. > > Ron > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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