Antenna matching

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Antenna matching

Paul Bartlett
Hi All,

Here's a proper radio question.

I'm still learning about this so apologies for any gaffs.

I have an Elecraft K2 (with which I'm extremely happy) running into a full
size G5RV.

The G5RV consists of a horizontal dipole with an impedance matching ladder
line dropped from the centre.

It currently terminates in a BNC connector and thence to a length of 50 ohm
co-ax to the transceiver.

It works tolerably well on 40 but is hopeless on other bands.

I'm uncomfortable about going from the unbalanced co-ax straight into the
ladder line without a balun though it's more intuition than having done the
sums.

I'm mean and impecunious so I want to use what I have to hand. I have an
ex-military ATU built by Redifon. This takes a 50 ohm unbalanced co-ax feed
and matches to an arbitrary dipole. BNC connector on the front, two
terminals on the back for the antennae and a further terminal for a ground
stake.

Of course the best place for the ATU would be at the base of the antenna but
this is impracticable so the ATU must reside in the shack.

I'm only using 10W so I want as much of the transmitter power to be coupled
to the antenna and waste as little as possible in the feeds.

My guess at the moment is that what I need to do is to connect the 50 ohm
output of theK2 into the ATU, take the ATU outputs and feed into a balun to
drive the coax feed and then have a further balun at the base of the G5RV to
match to the antenna.

Does this sound sensible or am I completely barmy?

Paul M3CRQ

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Re: Antenna matching

Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
Administrator
Paul,
There is a good series of articles on the G5RV at http://www.cebik.com 
-- reading those would probably help a lot with the balun questions.  A
classic G5RV should have low SWR and exhibit gain on 20m but requires a
tuner for other bands.  Perhaps yours is double length?
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Re: Antenna matching

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by Paul Bartlett
Paul,

If your "impedance matching ladder line" is of the correct length, the
impedance looking into it can be close to 50 ohms on ONE band!  That may
well be 40 meters in your particular case.

Your 'double balun' idea MAY work, but you will still be running the coax at
a high SWR and that can cause significant loss, especially with the smaller
diameter coax (OTOH, if you are using VERY low loss coax - like hardline -
it will do just fine)

For multiband operation, you will need an ATU, and it could be mounted at
the current junction of your coax and ladder line (assuming that is
physically possible).  If that is not possible, scrounge some more of the
ladderline material and run it all the way from the antenna to the tuner
location.  It should work FB, although you may have difficulty with some
lengths of feedline on some bands (which lengths and which bands depends on
the length and the feedpoint impedance of the antenna).

There are several resources that you can use to predict the impedance seen
at the shack end of your transmission line.  For the G5RV antenna length,
there are several instances of published antenna feedpoint impedance charts,
and I believe there is one on L B Cebik's website www.cebik.com.  Then to
estimate the transformation effect of your transmission line, you can use
several computer programs to do the calculation for you - TLW is available
from the ARRL website, and it will do the job nicely.

If you must use your current feedline configuration, use a balun at the
junction of the ladder line and the coax.  Whether you want to use a 1:1
balun or a 4:1 balun depends again on the antenna feedpoint impedance and
the length of the ladderline, so you still need to work through the
calculations to make an informed decision.

Should you desire a bit of information on the transformation properties of
antenna feedlines without delving into the math, take a look at my website
(www.qsl.net/w3fpr) article on 'Antennas, Transmission Lines and Tuners'.

73,
Don W3FPR

----- Original Message -----

>
> I'm still learning about this so apologies for any gaffs.
>
> I have an Elecraft K2 (with which I'm extremely happy) running into a full
> size G5RV.
>
> The G5RV consists of a horizontal dipole with an impedance matching ladder
> line dropped from the centre.
>
> It currently terminates in a BNC connector and thence to a length of 50
> ohm
> co-ax to the transceiver.
>
> It works tolerably well on 40 but is hopeless on other bands.
>
> I'm uncomfortable about going from the unbalanced co-ax straight into the
> ladder line without a balun though it's more intuition than having done
> the
> sums.
>
> I'm mean and impecunious so I want to use what I have to hand. I have an
> ex-military ATU built by Redifon. This takes a 50 ohm unbalanced co-ax
> feed
> and matches to an arbitrary dipole. BNC connector on the front, two
> terminals on the back for the antennae and a further terminal for a ground
> stake.
>
> Of course the best place for the ATU would be at the base of the antenna
> but
> this is impracticable so the ATU must reside in the shack.
>
> I'm only using 10W so I want as much of the transmitter power to be
> coupled
> to the antenna and waste as little as possible in the feeds.
>
> My guess at the moment is that what I need to do is to connect the 50 ohm
> output of theK2 into the ATU, take the ATU outputs and feed into a balun
> to
> drive the coax feed and then have a further balun at the base of the G5RV
> to
> match to the antenna.
>
> Does this sound sensible or am I completely barmy?
>


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Re: Antenna matching

Jack Brindle
In reply to this post by Paul Bartlett
Good grief, guys. Paul has the solution already. A G5RV is simply a  
dipole with some magic consisting of a combination of balanced and coax  
line which makes it look like 50 ohms on certain frequencies.

But Paul has a really nice balanced tuner. Now if it were me, I would  
eliminate the coax, extending the open-wire feed down to the balanced  
tuner. Now he will be able to tune the antenna for any frequency he  
wants. Open wire or ladder line has far less loss than coax, and  
because of this SWR really doesn't matter. In this case it is the SWR  
between the tuner and the radio that needs to be matched, since
that is where the lossy line is.

Paul, it looks like you have the solution at hand, it allows you to  
maintain your impecunious image and get the operating capabilities you  
desire.

On Sep 26, 2004, at 7:53 AM, Paul Bartlett wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Here's a proper radio question.
>
> I'm still learning about this so apologies for any gaffs.

Questioning things is the right way to go about things. No apologies  
needed, just ask! Be sure to question the answers too. Sometimes we get  
  bad advice, but more importantly as you research and validate the  
advice, you give yourself the chance to learn why!

> It works tolerably well on 40 but is hopeless on other bands.

I have a horizontal delta loop at 30 feet that works reasonably well on  
all bands. It is, of course, fed by open wire line as are all my other  
antennas at present.

> I'm mean and impecunious so I want to use what I have to hand. I have  
> an
> ex-military ATU built by Redifon. This takes a 50 ohm unbalanced co-ax  
> feed
> and matches to an arbitrary dipole. BNC connector on the front, two
> terminals on the back for the antennae and a further terminal for a  
> ground
> stake.

Is it automated, or do you have knobs that need adjusting to get the  
tuning?

> Of course the best place for the ATU would be at the base of the  
> antenna but
> this is impracticable so the ATU must reside in the shack.

With open-wire feed this is not necessarily bad. Open-wire or ladder  
line has such low loss characteristics that you could literaly run  
miles of it before you get the same loss figures as a relatively short  
length of coax. The problem with Coax is that at medium to high SWR  
levels you get heating of the dielectric, resulting in faulty cable and  
higher losses. At 10 watts this is not much of a concern, but then at  
that power level you want as much RF as possible getting to the  
antenna. This makes an even stronger case for balanced feed.

> My guess at the moment is that what I need to do is to connect the 50  
> ohm
> output of theK2 into the ATU, take the ATU outputs and feed into a  
> balun to
> drive the coax feed and then have a further balun at the base of the  
> G5RV to
> match to the antenna.

Nah. get rid of the coax completely. Replace it with more ladder line  
and you will be happy.

Just remember that the key is to experiment. If you want to try  
something go for it. If it doesn't work, try something else. You might  
also want to pick up some reference books to study when you aren't  
operating. My favorites at the moment were written by Mr Moxon.  
Hopefully they will be more available on your side of the pond than  
mine. ..

- Jack Brindle, WA4FIB
------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------

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RE: Antenna matching

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
I'll add this to Jack's excellent summary: The open wire feed line on a G5RV
is never balanced, since it's an off-center fed wire. That's good, because
that feed line contributes a lot by providing vertical, low angle radiation
on the lower frequencies. A horizontal wire needs to be up near 100 feet or
more to produce good, low angle radiation on 80. Most hams are happy if they
can get anywhere near half that. So on 40 and 80 the radiating open wire
feeder is a real bonus. The higher-angle radiation from the "flat top"
provides shorter skip contacts for good all-around coverage.

So there's no reason to jump through hoops trying to use baluns to provide a
balanced feed.

I always avoid extra devices in the antenna system because ALL gadgets have
some loss, it's just a matter of trying to figure out how much. In this
case, I'd forget the baluns.

If it would be possible to bring the open wire to the tuner, Jack has the
right answer. If not, then the lowest-loss coax you can get and the shortest
possible run are next best.

Ron AC7AC



-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jack Brindle
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 1:13 PM
Good grief, guys. Paul has the solution already. A G5RV is simply a  
dipole with some magic consisting of a combination of balanced and coax  
line which makes it look like 50 ohms on certain frequencies.

But Paul has a really nice balanced tuner. Now if it were me, I would  
eliminate the coax, extending the open-wire feed down to the balanced  
tuner. Now he will be able to tune the antenna for any frequency he  
wants. Open wire or ladder line has far less loss than coax, and  
because of this SWR really doesn't matter. In this case it is the SWR  
between the tuner and the radio that needs to be matched, since that is
where the lossy line is.

Paul, it looks like you have the solution at hand, it allows you to  
maintain your impecunious image and get the operating capabilities you  
desire.

O


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RE: Antenna matching

Brian Mury-3
On Sun, 2004-09-26 at 13:44, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I'll add this to Jack's excellent summary: The open wire feed line on a G5RV
> is never balanced, since it's an off-center fed wire. That's good, because

A G5RV is centre-fed.

--
73, Brian
VE7NGR

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RE: Antenna matching

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
You are SO RIGHT, Brian!

I was reading G5RV and thinking "Windom".

Thanks!

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Brian Mury
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 1:53 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Antenna matching


On Sun, 2004-09-26 at 13:44, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I'll add this to Jack's excellent summary: The open wire feed line on
> a G5RV is never balanced, since it's an off-center fed wire. That's
> good, because

A G5RV is centre-fed.

--
73, Brian
VE7NGR

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