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Anti-static Pads

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Edward A. Dauer

Anti-static Pads

Ron –

Your post (below) came at the right moment. I am about to begin building another K2 and wondered whether my anti-static pad, now more than five years and ten Elecraft kits old, needs some sort of cleaning to maintain its properties; and, if so, what to clean it with – or maybe to replace it.

I have looked and found no brand name on it anywhere, though maybe there was one that disappeared when I cut the mat to fit my workspace. I believe it was one of those recommended by Elecraft, but I have no record of it.

Is there a generic cleaner, or would it be safer to begin with a new one?

Forgive my asking this on the reflector rather than by private e-mail; but I suspect there may be some other old mats like me out there . . .

Thanks,

Ted, KN1CBR

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2016 13:39:24 -0700
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]>
To: "'G0PNM'" <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Erratic VFO behaviour, Switching bands and
freq's
Message-ID: <000d01d211ec$be560c30$3b022490$@biz>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

. . . Testing a mat requires specialized equipment, so we recommend that you choose an anti-static mat
that comes with published resistance specifications and clean it as recommended by the manufacturer. . . .

73, Ron AC7AC

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k6dgw

Re: Anti-static Pads

I built K2 S/N 4398 the same as Ron, on a desktop with a Formica top in
a room with a carpet. I kept all semiconductor parts in their
anti-static bags and/or conductive foam, and touched ground before
picking them up. My soldering station is static-safe. I tried not to
shuffle my feet on the carpet and wore sneakers with rubber soles. I
did ban the vacuum from the room until I was done and the K2 was
working. :-)

Don did an alignment for me when he replaced an intermittent component,
other than that, it's been completely fine.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 9/19/2016 1:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an
> anti-static mat. It's on the bottom of the anti-static priority list
> Wayne compiled. In the interest of full disclosure, I built my K2
> while most of my stuff was in storage, working solely on a small
> wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. I simply did the
> recommended "touch a ground" before each time I reached for a
> transistor, i.c. or pc board and experienced no problems whatsoever.
> Sixteen years later the K2 is still going strong.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC

Don Wilhelm

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by Edward A. Dauer

Hi all,

While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the
static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was
back in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess). Many
DIP mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and can be as
static sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do
see some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not
zero, some 'normal' ICs on a new build.
My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I
cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.

When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs
and transistors, especially during periods of low humidity. Do not work
on carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't
shuffle your feet on the floor while working.
The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground
in your house. You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an
electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the
receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some
are not.

Whether your anti-static precautions are 'overkill' for the task to be
accomplished will never be known. Take whatever precautions make you
feel comfortable with the risk factor involved. Doing nothing or
ignoring the static damage probability is not acceptable unless you are
willing to accept the risk.

I suggest that you do not connect the wrist strap to a separate ground
rod that you have for your hamshack unless that ground rod is also
bonded to the utility entrance ground rod.
It is off this topic, but if your ground rods are not connected to the
utility entrance ground, it is a safety hazard should something in the
house *or* your shack develop a fault. In addition, it is a violation
of the NEC (those codes are written for your safety).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an anti-static mat. It's on the bottom of the anti-static priority list Wayne compiled. In the interest of full disclosure, I built my K2 while most of my stuff was in storage, working solely on a small wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. I simply did the recommended "touch a ground" before each time I reached for a transistor, i.c. or pc board and experienced no problems whatsoever. Sixteen years later the K2 is still going strong.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>

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Don Wilhelm

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by Edward A. Dauer

Hi all,

A point I failed to make in my comments below is that the goal of
anti-static measures is to keep everything at the same potential (and
not necessarily to 'ground things').
For instance, all my tools touch my anti-static mat before I use them,
and when I remove a device which is shipped in anti-static bags or the
black foam from its anti-static material, I place the bag or foam on my
anti-static mat first, then remove the device and place its leads on the
mat. That assures that anything originating beyond the bounds of my mat
will be equalized to whatever potential exists on the mat - there should
be no static potential difference between items that reside on my mat.

73,
Don W3FPR

----------------------------------------------------------------
Hi all,

While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the
static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was
back in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess). Many
current DIP mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and
can be as static sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do
see some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not
zero, some 'normal' ICs on a new build.
My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I
cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.

When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs
and transistors, especially during periods of low humidity. Do not work
on carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't
shuffle your feet on the floor while working.
The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground
in your house. You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an
electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the
receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some
are not.

Whether your anti-static precautions are 'overkill' for the task to be
accomplished will never be known. Take whatever precautions make you
feel comfortable with the risk factor involved. Doing nothing or
ignoring the static damage probability is not acceptable unless you are
willing to accept the risk.

I suggest that you do not connect the wrist strap to a separate ground
rod that you have for your hamshack unless that ground rod is also
bonded to the utility entrance ground rod.
It is off this topic, but if your ground rods are not connected to the
utility entrance ground, it is a safety hazard should something in the
house *or* your shack develop a fault. In addition, it is a violation
of the NEC (those codes are written for your safety).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> Note that the K2 manual does not make much of an issue about an anti-static mat. It's on the bottom of the anti-static priority list Wayne compiled. In the interest of full disclosure, I built my K2 while most of my stuff was in storage, working solely on a small wooden drawing board using my ESD-Safe iron. I simply did the recommended "touch a ground" before each time I reached for a transistor, i.c. or pc board and experienced no problems whatsoever. Sixteen years later the K2 is still going strong.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>

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Richard Fjeld-2

Re: Anti-static Pads

At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I
don't think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce

P.S. I like reading the comments about the K2's.

On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> A point I failed to make in my comments below is that the goal of
> anti-static measures is to keep everything at the same potential (and
> not necessarily to 'ground things').
> For instance, all my tools touch my anti-static mat before I use them,
> and when I remove a device which is shipped in anti-static bags or the
> black foam from its anti-static material, I place the bag or foam on
> my anti-static mat first, then remove the device and place its leads
> on the mat. That assures that anything originating beyond the bounds
> of my mat will be equalized to whatever potential exists on the mat -
> there should be no static potential difference between items that
> reside on my mat.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

Jim Rhodes-3

Re: Anti-static Pads

Well, the resistance of a good one is probably higher than what a normal
VOM could measure. A merger might measure it, but having never had access
to one I couldn't be sure.

On Sep 19, 2016 8:35 PM, "Richard Fjeld" <[hidden email]> wrote:

At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?

I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I
don't think it is my error.
If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the
possibility for failures.

Dick, n0ce

P.S. I like reading the comments about the K2's.

On 9/19/2016 4:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

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k6dgw

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by Richard Fjeld-2

10^9+ ohms [1,000 megohms or more] is pretty much "non-conductive" for
anything we ordinary hams have to measure it. My Heath MM-1 just
doesn't register at that. :-)

Whether or not your mat is any good for ESD protection, and whether or
not you can believe the specs if it has them, depends a lot on where it
comes from.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Sparks NV DM09dn

- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 9/19/2016 7:34 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> At this point; A Question about how to properly test an anti-static mat?
>
> I bought one last winter that appears to be totally non-conductive. I
> don't think it is my error.
> If others have mats like this, and are trusting them, I can see the
> possibility for failures.
>
> Dick, n0ce

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Richard Fjeld-2

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by Richard Fjeld-2

I stand corrected. I didn't realize the resistance was that great.

I need to think of a simple way to determine conductivity rather than
measuring the resistance.

Thanks for the answers.

Dick, n0ce

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Alan Bloom

Re: Anti-static Pads

On 09/19/2016 08:32 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> I stand corrected. I didn't realize the resistance was that great.
>
> I need to think of a simple way to determine conductivity rather than
> measuring the resistance.

Here are the results of some anti-static mat testing that I did a few
years ago. If you scroll down to the bottom, there is a description of
the test procedure.

http://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft%40mailman.qth.net/msg94407.html

Alan N1AL
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Terry Schieler-2

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm

Don wrote,

<The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground in your house. You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some are not.>

I built a new home in 1996. After living there a few years I noticed an intermittent issue with an outlet on the first floor. Upon opening up the outlet box I discovered the green "safety ground" coiled up, disconnected in the back of the box. I fixed that. Then I used a receptacle tester to confirm the other outlets. All the outlets but three on the first floor had the disconnected green wire stuffed into the back of the box. I spent a weekend making them safe again. All outlets in the rest of the house were fine.
Hearing my experience, most people say "man I hope you gave your builder a piece of your mind". I was unable to do that as he was in federal prison at the time... for fraud. Every dog has his day.

Check your receptacles.

Terry, WØFM

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 3:59 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads

Hi all,

While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was back in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess). Many DIP mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and can be as static sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do see some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not zero, some 'normal' ICs on a new build.
My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.

When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs and transistors, especially during periods of low humidity. Do not work on carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't shuffle your feet on the floor while working.
The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground in your house. You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some are not.

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Fred Moore-2

Re: Anti-static Pads

The person who needs a piece of you mind is the Electrical Inspector who
didn't do his job.... Fred

On 9/20/16 10:37 AM, Terry Schieler wrote:

> Don wrote,
>
> <The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground in your house. You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some are not.>
>
> I built a new home in 1996. After living there a few years I noticed an intermittent issue with an outlet on the first floor. Upon opening up the outlet box I discovered the green "safety ground" coiled up, disconnected in the back of the box. I fixed that. Then I used a receptacle tester to confirm the other outlets. All the outlets but three on the first floor had the disconnected green wire stuffed into the back of the box. I spent a weekend making them safe again. All outlets in the rest of the house were fine.
> Hearing my experience, most people say "man I hope you gave your builder a piece of your mind". I was unable to do that as he was in federal prison at the time... for fraud. Every dog has his day.
>
> Check your receptacles.
>
> Terry, WØFM
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 3:59 PM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anti-static Pads
>
> Hi all,
>
> While I can state that Ron's comment about the K2 is typically true, the static tolerance of thru-hole ICs and transistors is lower than it was back in 1998 or even 2006 (OK, I picked those years as a guess). Many DIP mounted devices are really SMD devices with DIP leads and can be as static sensitive as the devices in the K3 and KX3.
> Despite the "touch grounded metal" instruction in the K2 manual, I do see some repairs come in with failed firmware ICs, and rarely, but not zero, some 'normal' ICs on a new build.
> My best guess is that those parts were damaged due to a static charge.
> Whether the builder did not follow the "touch a metal ground" or not I cannot tell, all I know is that it failed.
>
> When possible, use an anti-static mat and wrist strap when handling ICs and transistors, especially during periods of low humidity. Do not work on carpet without them and do not wear nylon clothing - and don't shuffle your feet on the floor while working.
> The minimum should be a wrist strap connected to the green-wire ground in your house. You can use a banana plug in the round pin of an electrical receptacle, but before you trust it, get one of the receptacle testers and make sure that green wire ground is intact - some are not.
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

--
Fred Moore
email: [hidden email]
[hidden email]
phone: 321-217-8699

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k6dgw

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by Richard Fjeld-2

Simplest way I know: Conductivity = 1 / Resistance. All you need is a
slide rule. :-) But seriously,

Alan's method ... charge a capacitor to a known voltage, discharge it
through the mat to a lower voltage measuring how long it takes, and use
the RC time constant to calculate the resistance ... is about the
simplest and maybe the most ingenious.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Sparks NV DM09dn

- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 9/19/2016 8:32 PM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> I stand corrected. I didn't realize the resistance was that great.
>
> I need to think of a simple way to determine conductivity rather than
> measuring the resistance.
>
> Thanks for the answers.
>
> Dick, n0ce
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EricJ-2

OT: K2

In reply to this post by Richard Fjeld-2

I had recently stopped monitoring the reflector as I only have a K1 and
two K2's. Everything is K3 and subject lines rarely reflect that anymore
so it's hard to filter them. But I had a K2 problem and rejoined. Got a
response with solution within an hour! And discovered that I miss the OT
discussions from a unique bunch of experts. Most of the OTs are
interesting and more relevant to a non-KX/K3 owner. So I'm back to
monitoring only OTs. hi.

The new products don't fill any need in my hamming that isn't satisfied
by the K2, but the ongoing development of the state of ham art at
Elecraft is extraordinary to see.

Eric KE6US

On 9/19/2016 8:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> P.S. Us K2 owners are rather quiet these days. I suspect few are still
> monitoring the reflector. I miss the many questions about soldering,
> testing, setting up an antenna, etc. But time, and products, moves on..
>

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Richard Fjeld-2

Re: Anti-static Pads

In reply to this post by k6dgw

G=1/R as I remember it.

Yes, I wanted to reply to Alan's method, but I have been away. I wanted
to re-read it to see if he allowed time to determine if a cap was leaky
first. It was a clever idea. I have two Simpson's so I should be able
to duplicate the test, if I can round up exposed metal pans.

I bought my anti-static mat online. I'm at a loss concerning specs. I
file everything, but after doing so for more than 50 years, things
aren't found quickly. I don't remember receiving specs, either.

Static discharge is an on-going concern for me. I humidify in the
winter, and try to stay around 40%. I keep a grounded wrist-band around
a tin breath mint container on the table beside my recliner for watching
TV. When I stand up, I touch the tin to discharge myself. Otherwise, I
zap my video equipment. Humidifying helps, but it's no guarantee.

At my workbench, I have a four outlet metal box that is grounded so that
I can touch it regularly to bleed off any static build-up. I can be
'sure' that it is grounded, but I have to 'trust' that my wrist strap
and anti-static mat are. Maybe I'm a 'belt and suspenders' type of guy.

Dick, n0ce

On 9/20/2016 12:41 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

> Simplest way I know: Conductivity = 1 / Resistance. All you need is a
> slide rule. :-) But seriously,
>
> Alan's method ... charge a capacitor to a known voltage, discharge it
> through the mat to a lower voltage measuring how long it takes, and
> use the RC time constant to calculate the resistance ... is about the
> simplest and maybe the most ingenious.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> - Sparks NV DM09dn

Don Wilhelm

Re: OT: K2

In reply to this post by EricJ-2

Eric,

I do repairs, alignment and calibration and upgrades of the Elecraft
legacy gear (K2, K1, KX1 and XV series transverters), and I am as busy
as I want to be (sometimes more than I want to be).
So there is still a lot of interest in that gear, but you are right,
most of the posts are about the K3, KX3 and KX2.
Non-the-less, there are frequent posts about the legacy gear. Many of
the older posts about "how to do ..." are no longer seen, but those
questions do pop up occasionally.

Many of the K2, K1 and KX1 posts come from folks who have purchased a
used transceiver. In many cases, they did not get all the associated
pieces (counter probe for the K2, connecting cables for the KAT100,
power cables, etc.) so those new owners need assistance, and they do
often post to the reflector.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/20/2016 2:35 PM, Eric J wrote:

> I had recently stopped monitoring the reflector as I only have a K1 and
> two K2's. Everything is K3 and subject lines rarely reflect that anymore
> so it's hard to filter them. But I had a K2 problem and rejoined. Got a
> response with solution within an hour! And discovered that I miss the OT
> discussions from a unique bunch of experts. Most of the OTs are
> interesting and more relevant to a non-KX/K3 owner. So I'm back to
> monitoring only OTs. hi.
>
> The new products don't fill any need in my hamming that isn't satisfied
> by the K2, but the ongoing development of the state of ham art at
> Elecraft is extraordinary to see.
>
> Eric KE6US
>
> On 9/19/2016 8:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> P.S. Us K2 owners are rather quiet these days. I suspect few are still
>> monitoring the reflector. I miss the many questions about soldering,
>> testing, setting up an antenna, etc. But time, and products, moves on..
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

WILLIE BABER

Re: OT: K2

In reply to this post by EricJ-2

Hello Don,

You may never know how many folks you have helped-out who are K2 owners. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I didn't finish my K2/100 until very recently, serial number 0086.....four years after I retired! So, as you know, I had to do lots of mods. I think I got them all.

Your posts got me through several issues, including the keying wave-form mod, alignment of the crystal filter (I used the newer crystals based on your post about this--a big difference in my case), the power output instability problem (which led me to the Elecraft mod on this).....and some more stuff I don't recall now. I don't think there was one issue that I searched on that didn't include a response from you. All your advice was dead on, too.

Anyone wanting to build K2 has a resource on this reflector in your advice. Thanks for all your advice and easy to follow instructions.

I guess K2 is a legacy radio but it will out perform all those up-conversion radios, hands down. Sweet sound too. You may never need a K3!

73, Will, wj9b
Kx1, K2, so2r K3/P3

CWops #1085
CWA Advisor levels II and III
http://cwops.org/

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 9/20/16, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: K2
To: [hidden email]
Date: Tuesday, September 20, 2016, 4:34 PM

Eric,

I do repairs, alignment and calibration and upgrades of the
Elecraft
legacy gear (K2, K1, KX1 and XV series transverters), and I
am as busy
as I want to be (sometimes more than I want to be).
So there is still a lot of interest in that gear, but you
are right,
most of the posts are about the K3, KX3 and KX2.
Non-the-less, there are frequent posts about the legacy
gear. Many of
the older posts about "how to do ..." are no longer seen,
but those
questions do pop up occasionally.

Many of the K2, K1 and KX1 posts come from folks who have
purchased a
used transceiver. In many cases, they did not get all
the associated
pieces (counter probe for the K2, connecting cables for the
KAT100,
power cables, etc.) so those new owners need assistance, and
they do
often post to the reflector.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/20/2016 2:35 PM, Eric J wrote:
> I had recently stopped monitoring the reflector as I
only have a K1 and
> two K2's. Everything is K3 and subject lines rarely
reflect that anymore
> so it's hard to filter them. But I had a K2 problem and
rejoined. Got a
> response with solution within an hour! And discovered
that I miss the OT
> discussions from a unique bunch of experts. Most of the
OTs are
> interesting and more relevant to a non-KX/K3 owner. So
I'm back to
> monitoring only OTs. hi.
>
> The new products don't fill any need in my hamming that
isn't satisfied
> by the K2, but the ongoing development of the state of
ham art at
> Elecraft is extraordinary to see.
>
> Eric KE6US
>
> On 9/19/2016 8:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> P.S. Us K2 owners are rather quiet these days. I
suspect few are still
>> monitoring the reflector. I miss the many questions
about soldering,
>> testing, setting up an antenna, etc. But time, and
products, moves on..
>>
>
______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

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Don Wilhelm

Re: OT: K2

Will,

Thank you for your fine words. They are appreciated. I continue to
help where I can.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/20/2016 8:39 PM, WILLIE BABER wrote:

> Hello Don,
>
> You may never know how many folks you have helped-out who are K2 owners. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I didn't finish my K2/100 until very recently, serial number 0086.....four years after I retired! So, as you know, I had to do lots of mods. I think I got them all.
>
> Your posts got me through several issues, including the keying wave-form mod, alignment of the crystal filter (I used the newer crystals based on your post about this--a big difference in my case), the power output instability problem (which led me to the Elecraft mod on this).....and some more stuff I don't recall now. I don't think there was one issue that I searched on that didn't include a response from you. All your advice was dead on, too.
>
> Anyone wanting to build K2 has a resource on this reflector in your advice. Thanks for all your advice and easy to follow instructions.
>
> I guess K2 is a legacy radio but it will out perform all those up-conversion radios, hands down. Sweet sound too. You may never need a K3!
>
> 73, Will, wj9b
> Kx1, K2, so2r K3/P3
>
>
>

Elecraft mailing list

] OT: K2

In reply to this post by EricJ-2

Hello Eric,
Please stay with the reflector. Folks here are helpful and civilized. Opposite opinions can be expressed here without too much firing back (even you criticize elecraft). Occasional OT is also allowed.
I once asked for tourist information in NYC.
73
Johnny VR2XMC

寄件人︰ Eric J <[hidden email]>
收件人︰ "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
傳送日期︰ 2016年09月21日 (週三) 2:35 AM
主題︰ [Elecraft] OT: K2

I had recently stopped monitoring the reflector as I only have a K1 and
two K2's. Everything is K3 and subject lines rarely reflect that anymore
so it's hard to filter them. But I had a K2 problem and rejoined. Got a
response with solution within an hour! And discovered that I miss the OT
discussions from a unique bunch of experts. Most of the OTs are
interesting and more relevant to a non-KX/K3 owner. So I'm back to
monitoring only OTs. hi.

The new products don't fill any need in my hamming that isn't satisfied
by the K2, but the ongoing development of the state of ham art at
Elecraft is extraordinary to see.

Eric KE6US

On 9/19/2016 8:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> P.S. Us K2 owners are rather quiet these days. I suspect few are still
> monitoring the reflector. I miss the many questions about soldering,
> testing, setting up an antenna, etc. But time, and products, moves on..
>

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

steve roberts

Re: ] : K2

Hello all,

I recently joined the reflector after purchasing an older K2. I was recently looking for a Kat100 to mate with the K2 and found one on QTH. It had several deficiencies and because of the reflector, I found Don Wilhelm. He took the tuner and repaired it within a week. It's now in line, doing what's it's supposed to do. My point is no matter if you own a K1, K2, or K3, answers, no matter what, can be found here.

73

Steve
N2SER

On September 21, 2016, at 05:16, Johnny Siu via Elecraft <[hidden email]> wrote:

Hello Eric,
Please stay with the reflector. Folks here are helpful and civilized. Opposite opinions can be expressed here without too much firing back (even you criticize elecraft). Occasional OT is also allowed.
I once asked for tourist information in NYC.
73
Johnny VR2XMC

寄件人︰ Eric J <[hidden email]>
收件人︰ "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
傳送日期︰ 2016年09月21日 (週三) 2:35 AM
主題︰ [Elecraft] OT: K2

I had recently stopped monitoring the reflector as I only have a K1 and
two K2's. Everything is K3 and subject lines rarely reflect that anymore
so it's hard to filter them. But I had a K2 problem and rejoined. Got a
response with solution within an hour! And discovered that I miss the OT
discussions from a unique bunch of experts. Most of the OTs are
interesting and more relevant to a non-KX/K3 owner. So I'm back to
monitoring only OTs. hi.

The new products don't fill any need in my hamming that isn't satisfied
by the K2, but the ongoing development of the state of ham art at
Elecraft is extraordinary to see.

Eric KE6US

On 9/19/2016 8:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> P.S. Us K2 owners are rather quiet these days. I suspect few are still
> monitoring the reflector. I miss the many questions about soldering,
> testing, setting up an antenna, etc. But time, and products, moves on..
>

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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Message delivered to [hidden email]

______________________________________________________________
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Jan-10

Re: OT: K2

In reply to this post by EricJ-2

My K2 # 136 yet does yeoman duty at the bedside, as a listening post in
the whee hours
But recently I had to take it apart, to recall how the jumpers are set
for the HM-2. Was
helping a friend get his recent purchase of a mike & K2 to work together.
Brought back memories of the Summer 1999 assembly, and fun operating .
Cheers, Jan K1ND
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