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Brett Howard

BNC Connectors

I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)

I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
better success.

So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
tool if need be and its a better option.

Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)

Thanks kindly gentlemen.

~Brett (KC7OTG)

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Jack Smith-6

Re: BNC Connectors

Buy a crimp tool and use crimp connectors.

Two types of crimp connectors are available, single crimp and double
crimp. Single crimp uses a solder-in center pin and crimp shield and the
double crimp version crimps both the center pin and the braid. I have a
slight preference for double crimp, but either are acceptable.

For connectors and crimp tools, you might look at The RF Connection in
Gaitherburg MD. It's owned by a ham, and I've found them good to deal
with. http://www.therfc.com/ is their web site.

Jack K8ZOA

On 1/28/2010 1:35 AM, Brett Howard wrote:

> I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
> But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
> guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
> cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
> I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
> or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
> one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
> use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
> I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
> anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
> on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
> is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
> been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
> always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
>
> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
> it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
> end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
> better success.
>
> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
> crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
> tool if need be and its a better option.
>
> Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
> connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
> use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
>
> Thanks kindly gentlemen.
>
> ~Brett (KC7OTG)
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

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P.B. Christensen

Re: BNC Connectors

> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job.

I'm with Jack on the use of double-crimp connectors for an inside
installations. I tend to use soldered connectors outdoors although with the
right sealant (e.g., Scotchkote) together with heat-shrink tubing, I imagine
that crimped connectors can also hold up to weather extremes.

RF Industries is my primary supplier of crimped connectors, mostly purchased
through Tessco. http://www.tessco.com/ If you set up an on-line commercial
account with them, typical small quantity pricing is very reasonable.

> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and

I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a
manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a "UG"
reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion:

http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF

It's not a novel idea, but there are several benefits to the use of this
method. The primary benefit is that the quality of the braided portion of
the installation can be inspected prior to insertion into the PL-259 body.
The method recommended by Amphenol over the past several decades leaves the
user with no true way of knowing about the quality of the job. You "hope"
that the job was completed correctly and that no further damage occurs after
filling in the four circular PL-259 openings with solder. A multimeter can
be used to detect for obvious shorts, but "ragged-edge" problems can go
undetected.

When using silver-plated UG reducers and a vise, it's possible to complete a
PL-259 connector in under two minutes. I use a Weller soldering station set
to 750-degrees F and with silver-plated PL-259 bodies and UG reducers,
there's ample heat for the job and there's no fight to work the flow of
solder. At the conclusion, you'll have confidence that the job was
completed accurately.

When I first tried this method, I honestly could not stop making jumper
cables. What I had painfully tried to do for the past 35 years instantly
became a pleasant experience. In a half hour, must have made close to a
dozen cables using RG-400. The installation goes very fast when placing the
coax vertically in a vise. The reducer goes on next and you have a perfect
platform to complete the soldering of the braid on to the edge of the
reducer.

Paul, W9AC

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alsopb

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Brett Howard

Bret,
Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors.
Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab
stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the
way to go.

The break even point is probably several hundred.

73 de Brian/K3KO

P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because "hams should make
their own cables" in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save
money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag
on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron,
perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your
self.

Brett Howard wrote:

Steven Pituch-3

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Brett Howard

Hi all,

I have made a coax connector tutorial and have it on my server at:

http://tinyurl.com/ydhoeyr

I also have an Anderson Powerpole connector tutorial at:

http://tinyurl.com/y9knmrr

Both have lots of info and photos.

72,
Steve, W2MY

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Doug Joyce

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by P.B. Christensen

Further comments to Paul's post.

Crimp connectors (double crimp preferred) are a whole lot easier, more
reliable and faster to do - but stick with brand name connectors and the
proper crimp tool. I've used Amphenol for many years (easily available in
Toronto) but I'm sure there are others as well.

I've also been using the method outlined in W5FC's document for years
without any problems - just one further comment. Once you have soldered the
cable braid to the end of the adapter / reducer, trimmed the insulation on
the center conductor and screwed it onto the PL-259 housing you only need to
solder the center conductor. If you tighten the reducer onto the PL-259
housing with vice grips it will not come apart and there is no need to
solder the adapter to the housing or try to fill the four circular holes
with solder.

One other comment re BNC connectors - if you use a single crimp connector
and need to solder the center conductor (use cable with a stranded center
conducor) use a small temp controlled soldering iron for the job. It's not
a job for a soldering gun!

73,
Doug VE3MV
email [hidden email]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Christensen" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors

>> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
>> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job.
>
> I'm with Jack on the use of double-crimp connectors for an inside
> installations. I tend to use soldered connectors outdoors although with
> the
> right sealant (e.g., Scotchkote) together with heat-shrink tubing, I
> imagine
> that crimped connectors can also hold up to weather extremes.
>
> RF Industries is my primary supplier of crimped connectors, mostly
> purchased
> through Tessco. http://www.tessco.com/ If you set up an on-line
> commercial
> account with them, typical small quantity pricing is very reasonable.
>
>> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
>> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
>
> I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a
> manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a "UG"
> reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion:
>
> http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF
>
> It's not a novel idea, but there are several benefits to the use of this
> method. The primary benefit is that the quality of the braided portion of
> the installation can be inspected prior to insertion into the PL-259 body.
> The method recommended by Amphenol over the past several decades leaves
> the
> user with no true way of knowing about the quality of the job. You "hope"
> that the job was completed correctly and that no further damage occurs
> after
> filling in the four circular PL-259 openings with solder. A multimeter
> can
> be used to detect for obvious shorts, but "ragged-edge" problems can go
> undetected.
>
> When using silver-plated UG reducers and a vise, it's possible to complete
> a
> PL-259 connector in under two minutes. I use a Weller soldering station
> set
> to 750-degrees F and with silver-plated PL-259 bodies and UG reducers,
> there's ample heat for the job and there's no fight to work the flow of
> solder. At the conclusion, you'll have confidence that the job was
> completed accurately.
>
> When I first tried this method, I honestly could not stop making jumper
> cables. What I had painfully tried to do for the past 35 years instantly
> became a pleasant experience. In a half hour, must have made close to a
> dozen cables using RG-400. The installation goes very fast when placing
> the
> coax vertically in a vise. The reducer goes on next and you have a
> perfect
> platform to complete the soldering of the braid on to the edge of the
> reducer.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Jack Smith-6

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by alsopb

There are prefab cables and then again there are prefab cables.

A few years ago, I was given a couple of boxes of BNC jumper cables,
new, intended for computer to network jumpers. RG-58 size cable, molded
on boots.

After several of these proved less than reliable, I cut several apart.
The cable is built like audio cables, thin foil shield and a small
amount of wire shield. The connectors were off-size and did not always
fit a MIL-spec BNC female connector. And one of the reasons the cables
failed was the shell came apart.

On the other hand, I have some military surplus BNC jumper cables that
are excellent, made with double shielded cable, silver plated BNCs, etc.

A ratcheting crimp tool and a set of commonly used jaws from RF Parts
will run well over $100, but a similar quality tool from The RF
Connection is less than half that. I have ratcheting tools from both
sources and can't see much difference in quality. If you only need one
tool, the RF Connection version is about $35, with jaws.

When it comes to connectors, a similar option is available. You can get
cheap Chinese crimp BNC connectors for about a buck each. You can also
get (Amphenol RX series) a higher quality connector, made in either
Mexico or China, for a bit more money, or you can go full up on a silver
plated MIL-spec style connector.

Jack K8ZOA

On 1/28/2010 8:23 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:

> Bret,
> Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors.
> Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab
> stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the
> way to go.
>
> The break even point is probably several hundred.
>
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>
> P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because "hams should make
> their own cables" in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save
> money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag
> on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron,
> perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your
> self.
>
> Brett Howard wrote:
>
>> I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
>> But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
>> guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
>> cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
>> I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
>> or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
>> one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
>> use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
>> I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
>> anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
>> on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
>> is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
>> been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
>> always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
>>
>> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
>> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
>> it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
>> end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
>> better success.
>>
>> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
>> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
>> crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
>> tool if need be and its a better option.
>>
>> Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
>> connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
>> use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
>>
>> Thanks kindly gentlemen.
>>
>> ~Brett (KC7OTG)
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

Jack Smith-6

Re: BNC Connectors

That should be "RFX" series, not "RX" series. It identifies Amphenol's
"commercial grade" line.

Jack

On 1/28/2010 8:51 AM, Jack Smith wrote:

> There are prefab cables and then again there are prefab cables.
>
> A few years ago, I was given a couple of boxes of BNC jumper cables,
> new, intended for computer to network jumpers. RG-58 size cable, molded
> on boots.
>
> After several of these proved less than reliable, I cut several apart.
> The cable is built like audio cables, thin foil shield and a small
> amount of wire shield. The connectors were off-size and did not always
> fit a MIL-spec BNC female connector. And one of the reasons the cables
> failed was the shell came apart.
>
> On the other hand, I have some military surplus BNC jumper cables that
> are excellent, made with double shielded cable, silver plated BNCs, etc.
>
> A ratcheting crimp tool and a set of commonly used jaws from RF Parts
> will run well over $100, but a similar quality tool from The RF
> Connection is less than half that. I have ratcheting tools from both
> sources and can't see much difference in quality. If you only need one
> tool, the RF Connection version is about $35, with jaws.
>
> When it comes to connectors, a similar option is available. You can get
> cheap Chinese crimp BNC connectors for about a buck each. You can also
> get (Amphenol RX series) a higher quality connector, made in either
> Mexico or China, for a bit more money, or you can go full up on a silver
> plated MIL-spec style connector.
>
> Jack K8ZOA
>
>
> On 1/28/2010 8:23 AM, Brian Alsop wrote:
>
>> Bret,
>> Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors.
>> Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab
>> stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the
>> way to go.
>>
>> The break even point is probably several hundred.
>>
>> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>>
>> P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because "hams should make
>> their own cables" in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save
>> money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag
>> on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron,
>> perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your
>> self.
>>
>> Brett Howard wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
>>> But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
>>> guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
>>> cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
>>> I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
>>> or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
>>> one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
>>> use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
>>> I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
>>> anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
>>> on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
>>> is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
>>> been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
>>> always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
>>>
>>> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
>>> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
>>> it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
>>> end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
>>> better success.
>>>
>>> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
>>> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
>>> crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
>>> tool if need be and its a better option.
>>>
>>> Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
>>> connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
>>> use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
>>>
>>> Thanks kindly gentlemen.
>>>
>>> ~Brett (KC7OTG)
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

M0XDF

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Steven Pituch-3

Good pdf on APP's - I've been using them a long time and everything I have 12v is APP if possible.
Even going to use them for other stuff - control lines etc.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit.
-Moliere, actor and playwright (1622-1673)

On 28 Jan 2010, at 13:47, Steven Pituch wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have made a coax connector tutorial and have it on my server at:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/ydhoeyr
>
> I also have an Anderson Powerpole connector tutorial at:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/y9knmrr
>
> Both have lots of info and photos.

Brett Howard

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by alsopb

Ok I think I'm going to go both routes... I used a house I've used for
work before onlinecables.com and I've ordered 3 cables. 2 cables at 72"
with a male BNC and a PL259 using RG223/U and one cable using 72" of
RG223 with male BNC's on both ends. (I could have ordered the BNC to
BNC cable from someone else cheaper (as its a standard cable) but since
onlinecables.com adds $30 to orders under $100 I figured I'd just add it
all onto them.

I figure I can use these cables as a gold standard and see if I can get
close to them. The BNC to PL259 cable was $43.84 each and the BNC to
BNC cable was $40.04. I've seen the Pomona prefab cables (using the
same RG223/U for around 30 to 32 dollars but like I said I had to get
over $100 bucks to not spend an extra $30 charge).

Ok now that being said I think tonight (and this weekend) I'm going to
start researching what connectors and crimp tools I want to buy. I
noticed that not many speak of the crimp on PL259's so perhaps I'll stay
away from those... When I build my cables I'll probably not use the
double shielded RG223 stuff so it won't be a fair comparison but I'll
take the patch cables and see what difference I can see on a network
analyzer... I can take a look up to about 26Ghz so I'm sure at some
point in time there will be a major difference between my cables and
those build by the pros!

I appreciate all of the references gentlemen and I ensure you I'll read
every word of the material put in front of me... For now I need to get
my butt into work and get the materials printed out for my design
review... Its my day in the barrel today. But I'm fairly confident
about this design so I don't think I'll be raked over the coals too
terribly bad! ;)

Again thanks for your input gentlemen you're all very helpful elmers!

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 13:23 +0000, Brian Alsop wrote:

> Bret,
> Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors.
> Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab
> stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the
> way to go.
>
> The break even point is probably several hundred.
>
> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>
> P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because "hams should make
> their own cables" in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save
> money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag
> on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron,
> perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your
> self.
>
> Brett Howard wrote:
> > I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
> > But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
> > guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
> > cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
> > I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
> > or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
> > one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
> > use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
> > I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
> > anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
> > on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
> > is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
> > been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
> > always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
> >
> > I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
> > unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
> > it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
> > end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
> > better success.
> >
> > So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
> > PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
> > crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
> > tool if need be and its a better option.
> >
> > Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
> > connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
> > use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
> >
> > Thanks kindly gentlemen.
> >
> > ~Brett (KC7OTG)
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
>

Vic K2VCO

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by P.B. Christensen

Paul Christensen wrote:

> I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a
> manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a "UG"
> reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion:
>
> http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF

I have to agree that this is a life-changing improvement in making cables! I've been doing
it this way for years with no problems. An advantage which Paul didn't mention is that
it's easy to remove the connector and re-use it.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Jack Smith-6

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Brett Howard

I don't use many PL259 connectors these days, but when I do, it is a
double crimp version, silver plated from RF Industries if I recall
correctly. Those install like a charm in a matter of a minute or less.
(I also have a special tool that strips the jacket, braid and center
conductor to the correct length, all at one time.)

Be careful with RG-223 connectors - RG-223 looks like it's the same
diameter as RG-58, but it's not. RG-58 has an OD of 0.195 inches and
RG-223 is 0.212 inches and the crimp connector ferrule sized for RG58
will either be an incredibly tight fit over the RG223 jacket or it won't
fit at all. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Jack

On 1/28/2010 11:28 AM, Brett Howard wrote:

> Ok I think I'm going to go both routes... I used a house I've used for
> work before onlinecables.com and I've ordered 3 cables. 2 cables at 72"
> with a male BNC and a PL259 using RG223/U and one cable using 72" of
> RG223 with male BNC's on both ends. (I could have ordered the BNC to
> BNC cable from someone else cheaper (as its a standard cable) but since
> onlinecables.com adds $30 to orders under $100 I figured I'd just add it
> all onto them.
>
> I figure I can use these cables as a gold standard and see if I can get
> close to them. The BNC to PL259 cable was $43.84 each and the BNC to
> BNC cable was $40.04. I've seen the Pomona prefab cables (using the
> same RG223/U for around 30 to 32 dollars but like I said I had to get
> over $100 bucks to not spend an extra $30 charge).
>
> Ok now that being said I think tonight (and this weekend) I'm going to
> start researching what connectors and crimp tools I want to buy. I
> noticed that not many speak of the crimp on PL259's so perhaps I'll stay
> away from those... When I build my cables I'll probably not use the
> double shielded RG223 stuff so it won't be a fair comparison but I'll
> take the patch cables and see what difference I can see on a network
> analyzer... I can take a look up to about 26Ghz so I'm sure at some
> point in time there will be a major difference between my cables and
> those build by the pros!
>
> I appreciate all of the references gentlemen and I ensure you I'll read
> every word of the material put in front of me... For now I need to get
> my butt into work and get the materials printed out for my design
> review... Its my day in the barrel today. But I'm fairly confident
> about this design so I don't think I'll be raked over the coals too
> terribly bad! ;)
>
> Again thanks for your input gentlemen you're all very helpful elmers!
>
> ~Brett (KC7OTG)
>
> On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 13:23 +0000, Brian Alsop wrote:
>
>> Bret,
>> Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors.
>> Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab
>> stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the
>> way to go.
>>
>> The break even point is probably several hundred.
>>
>> 73 de Brian/K3KO
>>
>> P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because "hams should make
>> their own cables" in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save
>> money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag
>> on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron,
>> perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your
>> self.
>>
>> Brett Howard wrote:
>>
>>> I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
>>> But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
>>> guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
>>> cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
>>> I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
>>> or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
>>> one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
>>> use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
>>> I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
>>> anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
>>> on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
>>> is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
>>> been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
>>> always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
>>>
>>> I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
>>> unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
>>> it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
>>> end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
>>> better success.
>>>
>>> So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
>>> PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
>>> crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
>>> tool if need be and its a better option.
>>>
>>> Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
>>> connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
>>> use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
>>>
>>> Thanks kindly gentlemen.
>>>
>>> ~Brett (KC7OTG)
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

P.B. Christensen

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Brett Howard

> "(I also have a special tool that strips the jacket, braid and center
> conductor to the correct length, all at one time.)"

The coax tooling/prep manufacturers don't do a very good job of matching up
their products with coax types. Here's a breakdown of the stripping tools
I use for crimp connectors.

RG-8/RG-213, etc.: Paladin Tools Model #1256
RG-400, RG-58, RG-59, RG-8X: Paladin Tools # 1255
RG-174, RG-316: Paladin Tools #1258.

Each can be configured for 2 or 3 level stripping (default as shipped is
3-level for most crimp connectors).

For the actual crimping action, I recently purchased this set with the most
used changeable dies for about USD $100:

http://tinyurl.com/yf6ozje

Paul, W9AC

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Julian, G4ILO

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by alsopb

alsopb wrote

Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors.
Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab
stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the
way to go.

The break even point is probably several hundred.

There's a lot to be said for the convenience of being able to make cables exactly the length you want, when you want them.

I like the RG-8 Mini cable which is slightly thicker than RG-58, and I bought a batch of crimp connectors for it. But unlike the RG-58 crimp connectors they didn't come with a sleeve to crimp the braid to the connector. They are all one piece (except for the center pin that you solder on as normal) and from the look of them you are expected to crimp the back of the plug on to the bared cable itself, which I wouldn't have thought would give a reliable connection. Consequently I haven't tried to use them. Has anyone come across connectors like this and knows what you are supposed to do with them?

Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222 KX3 #110
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

N5GE

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Brett Howard

On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 22:35:35 -0800, Brett Howard
<[hidden email]> wrote:

Using the Times Microwave Attenuation and Power Handling Calculator
Downloadable from: http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cable_calculators/,
I found that RG58 standard coax has .15dB attenuation at a length of
1.5 feet.

If one were using this as a jumper between a Transverter or Rig and an
Amplifier the loss would be acceptable, but not as a hook up from the
amp to a feedthrough connector in the wall or something like that. The
power handling capability of an eighteen inch piece like that is only
130 watts.

Tom, N5GE

[hidden email]
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

>I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
>But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
>guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
>cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
>I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
>or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
>one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
>use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
>I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
>anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
>on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
>is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
>been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
>always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
>
>I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
>unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
>it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
>end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
>better success.
>
>So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
>PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
>crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
>tool if need be and its a better option.
>
>Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
>connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
>use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
>
>Thanks kindly gentlemen.
>
>~Brett (KC7OTG)

[snip]

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Amateur Radio Operator N5GE

N5GE

Re: BNC Connectors

On Thu, 28 Jan 2010 12:40:43 -0600, Radio Amateur N5GE <[hidden email]>
wrote:

Oops!

The calculation Frequency was 432MHz...

Tom, N5GE

[hidden email]
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

Amateur Radio Operator N5GE

Brett Howard

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by N5GE

Looks like the RG223 that I selected isn't all that great for high power
either... And I knew that RG-58 was trash and I would never use it at
work but as far as home use I always figured meh it works good enough...
As far as what I consider acceptable at work it sure is pretty low
rent.... ;)

Looks like the RG217 that I loved to use so much when I built our EMC
compliance lab is still some very top notch stuff... But its spendy!
Oh well thankfully I'm still pretty happy with 100 Watts for now... And
the three cables that I bought are designated to be coming directly from
the K3. Thus with my 6 foot runs for RG-223 will only account for a
third of a dB of loss and will get me into my LP-100A just fine (and
maybe even get me into an Amp some day) but I find better antennas a LOT
more exciting of a prospect than an amp at the moment.

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 12:40 -0600, Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:

> On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 22:35:35 -0800, Brett Howard
> <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Using the Times Microwave Attenuation and Power Handling Calculator
> Downloadable from: http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cable_calculators/,
> I found that RG58 standard coax has .15dB attenuation at a length of
> 1.5 feet.
>
> If one were using this as a jumper between a Transverter or Rig and an
> Amplifier the loss would be acceptable, but not as a hook up from the
> amp to a feedthrough connector in the wall or something like that. The
> power handling capability of an eighteen inch piece like that is only
> 130 watts.
>
> Tom, N5GE
>
> [hidden email]
> K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
> XV144, XV432, KRC2,
> W1, 2 W2's and other small kits
>
> 1 K144XV on order
>
> http://www.n5ge.com
> http://www.swotrc.net
>
> >I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1...
> >But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I
> >guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated
> >cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack
> >I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot
> >or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with
> >one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF
> >use this coax should be ample for a few 18" patches... Anyone disagree?
> >I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of
> >anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have
> >on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff.... If there
> >is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always
> >been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work
> >always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...)
> >
> >I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was
> >unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and
> >it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the
> >end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have
> >better success.
> >
> >So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get
> >PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or
> >crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp
> >tool if need be and its a better option.
> >
> >Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the
> >connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
> >use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;)
> >
> >Thanks kindly gentlemen.
> >
> >~Brett (KC7OTG)
> [snip]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
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Brett Howard

Re: BNC Connectors

In reply to this post by Steven Pituch-3

Ok so if I was looking for a relatively universal crimp tool to meet
most of my needs... (I'm big on if I'm going to buy something I want it
to do many things)... ;)

I was looking into this crimp tool..
http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm

For 40 bucks I get the tool and the APP bit then for 14 bucks I could
get the #4 die. I have no real need for the RJ one as I've got one of
those. Perhaps someday #5 could be useful for helping friends with CATV
stuff. But beyond that thats not all THAT expensive and allows for a
good bit of stuff...

>From looking at other coax crimp tools here:
http://www.therfc.com/tooling.htm
many of them looked to have very limited cable types... I've got RG8/U,
RG58, RG223, and RG8 for ham type stuff around the house...

The Connex tool there looks similar to the west mtn one but its a bit
pricer...

Julian has it right on about being able to make cables the length I want
them and with the connectors I want (ie not matching on each end).
Right now I've got a 100 foot N terminated spool of TWB 6001 ultra low
loss stuff in the garage (that work was going to throw out) and I'd like
to use it but honestly I've not ever needed 100' of run to date. Not to
mention that that stuff is STIFF!!

Now if someone would just make me some coax that is the size of mini
RG-8 with the performance of RG-217 but the flexibility and cost of
RG-58. Then I would have no qualms about having to select what types of
coax I want to buy tools and connectors for!

So far I think that RG-8/U and RG223 are a decent balance...

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 07:47 -0600, Steven Pituch wrote:

Phil Salas

Re: BNC Connectors

"Ok so if I was looking for a relatively universal crimp tool to meet 2most
of my needs... (I'm big on if I'm going to buy something I want it to do
many things)... ;) I was looking into this crimp tool..
http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm".

The only issue I see is that it apparently doesn't crimp the coax center
pins. So you'd need to always get the solder-on center pin connector.

Phil - AD5X

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