Building 3080 first...then KX1

[ke9uw]

Rather than unsolder a number of components by buildingd the KX1 first, I'm going to build the 3080 and then the KX1 without the removed/subbed components. I figure if I make no errors, no problems...or is there some by me unforseen caveat?
I took about 10 years to build the K2...collected all the mods during that time and incorporated them into the 2000 year vintage K1 which worked when finished. I had bought two firmwear chips before i ever turned it on the first time. The KX1 is not as big a job.
Comments?
Chuck, KE9UW

[Don Wilhelm-4]

Chuck,

It will not be easy to build the KXB3080 first because it cannot be
tested, and part of it is making changes to the KX1.

If you want to do it properly without removing many components, you will
build the KX1 up through page 30 in the manual.  Then on page 31, mount
L6 on the bottom of the board, and Do *not* install L7.  Then on page
32, do not install C27, and on page 33, do not install C26, nor C1.

When you get to page 40 in the KX1 manual, I strongly recommend that you
wind and install L1 and L2 as instructed - the downfall of most builders
for the KXB3080 is a problem with the tiny Low Pass Filter Board.

When you finish with page 42, go to the KXB3080 manual and do all steps
through page 7.

At that point, you can do the tests on 40 and 20 meters indicated in the
KX1 manual beginning on page 43.  When you have finished those alignment
and test steps, go back to the KX1 manual and continue on page 8 through
to the end.  The only components you will have to remove are L1 and L2.  
You can clean up the 4 solder pads with solder wick and if the holes do
not come clean, heat the pads and use a toothpick or a stainless steel
needle to push the solder out of the holes.

Task accomplished.  After you have done 3 of these KX1 with KXB3080
options successfully, you can skip the stock L1 and L2 toroids and the
subsequent testing, but until then, I recommend you follow my
instructions.  Should you have problems, I can send you my repair fee
schedule.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/15/2012 8:32 PM, ke9uw wrote:

> Rather than unsolder a number of components by buildingd the KX1 first, I'm
> going to build the 3080 and then the KX1 without the removed/subbed
> components. I figure if I make no errors, no problems...or is there some by
> me unforseen caveat?
> I took about 10 years to build the K2...collected all the mods during that
> time and incorporated them into the 2000 year vintage K1 which worked when
> finished. I had bought two firmwear chips before i ever turned it on the
> first time. The KX1 is not as big a job.
> Comments?
> Chuck, KE9UW
>
>

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Replace the 4th paragraph below with this corrected copy:

At that point, you can do the tests on 40 and 20 meters indicated in the
KX1 manual beginning on page 43.  When you have finished those alignment
and test steps, go back to the *KXB3080* manual and continue on page 8
through to the end.  The only components you will have to remove are L1
and L2.  You can clean up the 4 solder pads with solder wick and if the
holes do not come clean, heat the pads and use a toothpick or a
stainless steel needle to push the solder out of the holes.

-------------------------------------
Chuck,

It will not be easy to build the KXB3080 first because it cannot be
tested, and part of it is making changes to the KX1.

If you want to do it properly without removing many components, you will
build the KX1 up through page 30 in the manual.  Then on page 31, mount
L6 on the bottom of the board, and Do *not* install L7.  Then on page
32, do not install C27, and on page 33, do not install C26, nor C1.

When you get to page 40 in the KX1 manual, I strongly recommend that you
wind and install L1 and L2 as instructed - the downfall of most builders
for the KXB3080 is a problem with the tiny Low Pass Filter Board.

When you finish with page 42, go to the KXB3080 manual and do all steps
through page 7.

At that point, you can do the tests on 40 and 20 meters indicated in the
KX1 manual beginning on page 43.  When you have finished those alignment
and test steps, go back to the KX1 manual and continue on page 8 through
to the end.  The only components you will have to remove are L1 and L2.
  You can clean up the 4 solder pads with solder wick and if the holes
do not come clean, heat the pads and use a toothpick or a stainless
steel needle to push the solder out of the holes.

Task accomplished.  After you have done 3 of these KX1 with KXB3080
options successfully, you can skip the stock L1 and L2 toroids and the
subsequent testing, but until then, I recommend you follow my
instructions.  Should you have problems, I can send you my repair fee
schedule.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/15/2012 8:32 PM, ke9uw wrote:

> Rather than unsolder a number of components by buildingd the KX1 first, I'm
> going to build the 3080 and then the KX1 without the removed/subbed
> components. I figure if I make no errors, no problems...or is there some by
> me unforseen caveat?
> I took about 10 years to build the K2...collected all the mods during that
> time and incorporated them into the 2000 year vintage K1 which worked when
> finished. I had bought two firmwear chips before i ever turned it on the
> first time. The KX1 is not as big a job.
> Comments?
> Chuck, KE9UW
>
>

______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html