Connector woes

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Connector woes

N4TY
The previous owner of my K2 who built it, put the main-board P3 and P6 connectors in backwards.
That is, the index tab is facing the rear of the K2, rather than the front.
Reason this came up:  I was finishing up the internal KAT2 tuner, and realized through an ohmmeter check the connector was likely backwards.
A check of the K2 board layout in the manual confirmed both WERE backward.

I don't know if I'll ever put the internal battery into the K2, but I'm thinking of pulling it along with P6.
The KAT2 kit supplied a P6 for this purpose, but that leaves me short the P3 connector.
I'm concerned that despite my best removal efforts, that I'll ruin both getting them out.
Yes, I have a new solder-sucker, and an Aoyue desoldering station, but I don't know how hardy this connector is.
Should I order P3 now from Elecraft, or see how it goes?

Thanks, Tyler N4TY

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Re: Connector woes

Don Wilhelm-4
Tyler,

Those are relatively low cost parts, so order them.  It may be possible
to salvage those headers, but why take a chance that could damage the RF
board (think of the RF board value compared to the cost of replacement
headers).  Don;t be penny wise and pound foolish, there is too much at
stake.

If your solder sucker is not successful in removing the old connectors,
grab one of the pins with pliers and pull while heating the solder
connection for that pin - the pin will pull out in due time.  Do the
same with the 2nd pin and clean up the solder with solder wick.  If
solder remains in the hole, heat the solder pad and run either a
toothpick or a stainless steel needle into the hole to remove the solder.

Once the solder is clear, the new connector should be easy to install.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/29/2013 11:39 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:

> The previous owner of my K2 who built it, put the main-board P3 and P6 connectors in backwards.
> That is, the index tab is facing the rear of the K2, rather than the front.
> Reason this came up:  I was finishing up the internal KAT2 tuner, and realized through an ohmmeter check the connector was likely backwards.
> A check of the K2 board layout in the manual confirmed both WERE backward.
>
> I don't know if I'll ever put the internal battery into the K2, but I'm thinking of pulling it along with P6.
> The KAT2 kit supplied a P6 for this purpose, but that leaves me short the P3 connector.
> I'm concerned that despite my best removal efforts, that I'll ruin both getting them out.
> Yes, I have a new solder-sucker, and an Aoyue desoldering station, but I don't know how hardy this connector is.
> Should I order P3 now from Elecraft, or see how it goes?
>
>

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Re: K2 Connector woes

k6dgw
In reply to this post by N4TY
[I modified the subject slightly adding "K2"]

Personally, I would put a small tag inside to remind me that they're
backwards, and leave it be.  You can always get a new P3 from Elecraft
Parts.

Related subject:  If you have the KAT2, it **is** possible to plug the
KAT2 RF input cable into the 12V connector.  This will ground the 12V
supply, and if you're foolishly using a non current-limited supply as I
was [unfused LiFePO4 pack, good for about 40-50 amps into a short], the
primary 12V trace will simulate a fuse in about 2ms.  My battery is now
fused at about 125% of the K2's maximum load, and I painted the RF plug
and socket body black.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2013 Cal QSO Party 5-6 Oct 2013
- www.cqp.org

On 4/29/2013 8:39 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:

> The previous owner of my K2 who built it, put the main-board P3 and P6 connectors in backwards.
> That is, the index tab is facing the rear of the K2, rather than the front.
> Reason this came up:  I was finishing up the internal KAT2 tuner, and realized through an ohmmeter check the connector was likely backwards.
> A check of the K2 board layout in the manual confirmed both WERE backward.
>
> I don't know if I'll ever put the internal battery into the K2, but I'm thinking of pulling it along with P6.
> The KAT2 kit supplied a P6 for this purpose, but that leaves me short the P3 connector.
> I'm concerned that despite my best removal efforts, that I'll ruin both getting them out.
> Yes, I have a new solder-sucker, and an Aoyue desoldering station, but I don't know how hardy this connector is.
> Should I order P3 now from Elecraft, or see how it goes?


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