Cooling fans

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Cooling fans

ac0h
Hello all.

I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some aux
cooling.
I have a couple of 3" computer case fans and was wondering from those
who've done the same about placement and whether blow the air onto the
heatsink or suck it through.

Thanks for your input.

R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
K2/100 # 4684.

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Re: Cooling fans

Jim Wiley-2
Kevin -

It has been my experience that blowing air onto a heat sink is usually
more effective than "sucking"  air.   If the heat sink is carefully
shrouded and the incoming airflow is properly controlled, then either
method is supposed to be effective.  However, for uncontrolled or casual
situations where you are simply placing the fan on or near the heat sink
to be cooled, blowing (hopefully cooler) air onto the heat sink fins is
much more effective in lowering the temperature of the heat sink.   The
reason for this is that the outlet of a fan has a well defined airflow
that can be easily directed to where it is needed, whereas the inlet
side of the fan will gather air from wherever it can, some or even most
of which may not be from the heat sink.  Good luck in the contest.


- Jim, KL7CC



R. Kevin Stover wrote:

>Hello all.
>
>I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some aux
>
>  
>
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RE: Cooling fans

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by ac0h
Kevin,

The easiest solution is to simply lay the fan (horizontally) across the heat
sink fins.  Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works in
tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
airstream.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some aux
> cooling.
> I have a couple of 3" computer case fans and was wondering from those
> who've done the same about placement and whether blow the air onto the
> heatsink or suck it through.
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> K2/100 # 4684.
>
>

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Re: Cooling fans

Jim Wiley-2
Kevin -


Don may be correct in this case.  I have not seen a K2/100, and if
indeed air is already being directed through the heat sink, then you
certainly don't want to set up an opposing airflow.  Does the K2/100
heat sink have holes?  How does the air flow from the internal fan reach
the heat sink?  My example, in my last message,  is for the general case
where there is little or no air directed to the external fins of the
heat sink.


My K2 is the basic version, no amplifier included. The photo of a K2/100
on the Elecraft main page does not show how the air from the internal
fan is routed, and the internal photo of a "folded out" K2/100 is not
much more help.  I can see the fan in the photo, but that doesn't tell
me much.


- Jim, KL7CC


Don Wilhelm wrote:

>Kevin,
>
>The easiest solution is to simply lay the fan (horizontally) across the heat
>sink fins.  Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works in
>tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
>airstream.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>  
>
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RE: Cooling fans

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Also sure you don't have anything blocking the fins at the *front* of the
K2. The air blown in the back by the little fan comes out between the fins
where they reach the plate at the front of the KPA100. I've found that a lot
of people don't realize the gaps are there to let the air escape.

For what it's worth, I helped do the thermal testing of John's PLL
temperature compensation mod (that's now built into current K2's). To do
that I "hammered" my K2/100 with a great many high-duty-cycle transmit
periods into a large dummy load while monitoring the internal temperature.
Many times the internal air temperature got up to 50C or 60C and the KPA100
heat sink was too hot to leave my hand on it very long. Absolutely no
deleterious effects were noted then or later. (Still have the same finals
too <G>).

That rig is designed with a large margin of safety.

Ron AC7AC


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 12:19 PM
To: R. Kevin Stover; Elecraft mailing list
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Cooling fans


Kevin,

The easiest solution is to simply lay the fan (horizontally) across the heat
sink fins.  Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works in
tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
airstream.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some
> aux cooling. I have a couple of 3" computer case fans and was
> wondering from those who've done the same about placement and whether
> blow the air onto the heatsink or suck it through.
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> K2/100 # 4684.
>
>

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Re: Cooling fans

John, KI6WX
In reply to this post by ac0h
Kevin;
For some of my K2 power tests, I've placed a single 12V fan on the heat sink
with 6-32 screws through the fan mounting holes to hold the fan about an
inch above the heat sink.  The fan blows air down onto the top of the heat
sink.  With that combination, I can run key down full power for a half-hour
without excessive heating on the output transistors.
-John
 KI6WX

> Hello all.
>
> I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some aux
> cooling.
> I have a couple of 3" computer case fans and was wondering from those
> who've done the same about placement and whether blow the air onto the
> heatsink or suck it through.
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> K2/100 # 4684.
>


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Re: Cooling fans

Ken  K7ZUM
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3

Ten-Tec has a very nice model 310 cooling fan for the Orion,Omni,Corsair
series radios, that fits very nicely on the top of the K2/100, hangs a
little
bit off the rear, and if you use the tilt bail on the K2, you can use a
rubber
band to temp hold it on, have used it this way many times, works well

73 de K7ZUM
Ken in Gres"HAM"  Ore





> Kevin,
>
> The easiest solution is to simply lay the fan (horizontally) across the
heat

> sink fins.  Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works in
> tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
> airstream.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > I'm getting my K2/100 ready for sweeps and have decided to add some aux
> > cooling.
> > I have a couple of 3" computer case fans and was wondering from those
> > who've done the same about placement and whether blow the air onto the
> > heatsink or suck it through.
> >
> > Thanks for your input.
> >
> > R. Kevin Stover
> > AC0H
> > K2/100 # 4684.
> >
> >
>
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> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
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> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

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Re: Cooling fans

Mike Harris-9
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
G'day,

| sink fins.  Suck the hot air away from the heat sink, that way it works
in
| tandem with the internal fan rather than fighting the internal fan
| airstream.

The air stream from the internal fan flows into the K2 under the KPA100
heatsink and emerges from the front.  That way it keeps much of the heat
out of the box.

I have used a 3 inch fan sitting on the heatsink near the front propped up
at 45 degrees and blowing to onto the area where the PA's are fitted
underneath.  When I was doing some long run (12 hour) QRSS tests at 40W
output the heatsink ran cool and the KPA fan didn't even come on.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


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RE: Cooling fans

Don Wilhelm-3
> -----Original Message-----
>
> The air stream from the internal fan flows into the K2 under the KPA100
> heatsink and emerges from the front.  That way it keeps much of the heat
> out of the box.
>
That is why I recommend pulling the air upward from the heat sink - so it
will help pull the air from inside the KPA100 as well - in the same
direction as the internal fan moves the air.  The ideal in my opinion is to
have just enough external fan that the amount of time the internal fan runs
is substantially reduced, but will still run with extended transmit periods
(like RTTY or PSK31 operation).  Doing things that way, it is mandatory that
I not buck the normal air flow of the internal fan.

For purposes of cooling a heat sink, it is just as effective to pull the hot
air away from it then to concentrate an air stream to blow onto it.  As an
added benefit, it also pulls away any dust that may be in the air rather
than causing it to load up on the heat sink and reduce the cooling
effectiveness.

A 12 volt auxiliary fan can be slowed down to about half speed by the
addition of a series resistor, and will likely stay in place with no
fasteners unless you have the KPA100 in a vibration prone environment.  A
slower fan will be much more quiet than one running at high speed and will
be quite effective.  The heat sink may get quite warm to the touch but it
should not be so hot that you cannot hold your hand on it.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: Cooling fans

Ian Stirling, G4ICV, AB2GR
 On Saturday 29 October 2005 23:30, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> That is why I recommend pulling the air upward from the heat sink - so it
> will help pull the air from inside the KPA100 as well - in the same
> direction as the internal fan moves the air.

   I had a dramatic demonstration of how important
it is to allow heated material to rise.
 My general contractor in my bathroom renovation
mistook the pressure release safety valve in an
oil filled towel warmer (don't ask, my wife Donna
wanted it) at the top for the location to install
the heating element.  It heated the top corner
hotter than safe and the rest of the towel warmer
was stone cold after hours.
  I didn't expect to have to intervene in their
work, but when the towel warmer was clearly not
working, I became involved.
   "Heat Rises", I said.
 Putting the element at the bottom and restoring
the safety valve had the whole towel warmer
comfortably warm very quickly.
  Conduction of heat is nothing compared to its
rising.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
--
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