FIXED--was NOT the feedline

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Peter W2IRT
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's not so trivial.

 - pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no residue or old tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
 

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

NK7Z
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
hand... ;)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's not so trivial.
>
>   - pjd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no residue or old tape.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
>  
>
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Peter W2IRT
In reply to this post by Edward R Cole
Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors.

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


 - pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On
Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house.

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Peter W2IRT
In reply to this post by NK7Z
Never sliced my hand (thankfully), but yeah, I've damaged the cable a few times. See my correction, though; I use the 130 and marine grade heat shrink as my default, not 130 and 88.

I *_did_* use 130+88 on the LFA yesterday, which is where this current discussion started.

 - pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cole <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 10:59 AM
To: Peter Dougherty <[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my hand... ;)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:

> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's not so trivial.
>
>   - pjd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no residue or old tape.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
>  
>

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Bob McGraw - K4TAX
In reply to this post by NK7Z
Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into
the wind?   Neither works.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

> I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
> hand... ;)
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when
>> I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself.
>> Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's
>> on the antenna end it's not so trivial.
>>
>>   - pjd
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [hidden email]
>> <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use
>> Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the
>> tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no
>> residue or old tape.
>>
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

NK7Z
Yup.;..  :)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 8:47 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

> Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into
> the wind?   Neither works.
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
>> I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
>> hand... ;)
>>
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>> https://www.nk7z.net
>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>>
>> On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when
>>> I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself.
>>> Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's
>>> on the antenna end it's not so trivial.
>>>
>>>   - pjd
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: [hidden email]
>>> <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use
>>> Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the
>>> tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no
>>> residue or old tape.
>>>
>>> 73, and thanks,
>>> Dave (NK7Z)
>>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Clay Autery-2
In reply to this post by NK7Z
I NEVER use a knife to remove connector protection.
For decades I have used single-edged razor blades.... ONE-time use on
stuff like connectors.  I keep a box of 100 in the garage, my office, my
networking box, my radio box, et al.
Pull out a new one to slit the cover and then wrap in a paper towel and
dispose of properly.

99% of the time if I "slip" and cut something I don't want to cut is
because the blade wasn't sharp enough for the job....  AKA: applying too
much force trying to push a dull edge through a material.

These days, I also carry an OLFA H-1 heavy duty retractable razor knife
with big thick snappable section blades.  I use this in the
construction/renovation stuff where I want a handle for the blade.
But I STILL use SE razor blades without a handle for detail work.

73,

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/04/20 09:59, Dave Cole wrote:

> I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
> hand... ;)
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when
>> I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself.
>> Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's
>> on the antenna end it's not so trivial.
>>
>>   - pjd
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [hidden email]
>> <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use
>> Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the
>> tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no
>> residue or old tape.
>>
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Phil Kane-2
In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10
On 6/3/2020 9:17 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

> It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to open up if you need to
> change something.

That's what they make X-acto knives for.  I never reuse "taken off" tape.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Phil Kane-2
In reply to this post by NK7Z
On 6/4/2020 7:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

> I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my
> hand... ;)

I have to introduce you to my cousin the eye surgeon who can teach you
to avoid things like that!  :)   One of the stunts that he does to show
off is to peel the red skin off an apple and leave the green under-skin
intact.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Jim Brown-10
In reply to this post by Phil Kane-2
On 6/4/2020 7:55 PM, Phil Kane wrote:
>> It's also FAR easier than 3M mastic tape to open up if you need to
>> change something.
> That's what they make X-acto knives for.

Right. Of course -- that works with Rescue Tape, but it doesn't work at
all with 3M Mastic tapes -- they are a real PITA to remove.

> I never reuse "taken off" tape.

Of course not. The difference is the time it takes. I unwrap the Scotch
88 outer layer, then slit along the length of cable and the Rescue Tape
peels off in a few seconds! I considered myself doing well to get Mastic
off in 15 minutes! The mastic I'm talking about is 3M 2228. The reason
for unwrapping the 88 is so that I don't damage the cable's outer jacket.

I just ordered a box of Scotch 130C to have on hand.

Thanks and 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

donovanf
In reply to this post by Peter W2IRT
This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of
heat shrink and cold shrink tubing


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw


73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]>
To: "Edward R Cole" <[hidden email]>, "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors.

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


- pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On
Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house.

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Charlie T, K3ICH
In reply to this post by NK7Z
I have successfully used a method of water-proofing a coax splice by first coating the outside of the connectors with silicone (di-electric) grease, then wrapping about 18" X 5" (or?) piece of plain plastic garbage bag around the junction.
The next step is to wrap that with several layers of good electrical tape extending the wrap about 2 inches past the plastic.  I do NOT like the scotch stuff since the adhesive gets gooey over time.  Believe it or not, the cheap chicom stuff Harbor Freight sells is quite good.  I have opened up fittings done this way this over ten years later and the connection is bright & shiny with no hint of water corrosion.

73, Charlie k3ICH

 

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Peter W2IRT
In reply to this post by donovanf
First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where
is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go
through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5
years.

 - pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On
Behalf Of [hidden email]
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat
shrink and cold shrink tubing


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw


73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]>
To: "Edward R Cole" <[hidden email]>, "Elecraft Reflector"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors.

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


- pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On

Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house.

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft 
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm 
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
Message delivered to [hidden email]

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Lovin' my K3S (S/N 10023)
73, Peter W2IRT
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Grant Youngman-2
DigiKey has it in 6” or 8” pieces of various diameters.  It runs around $25.00 per piece, with quantity discounts.  Not inexpensive …

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 5, 2020, at 12:13 PM, Peter Dougherty <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where
> is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go
> through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5
> years.
>
> - pjd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On
> Behalf Of [hidden email]
> Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM
> To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline
>
> This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat
> shrink and cold shrink tubing
>
>
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw
>
>
> 73
> Frank
> W3LPL
>

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Peter W2IRT
Ouch! I'll get a few of these but reserve them for anything in the air that's difficult to access. I still have about 5 feet of the Ancor marine heat shrink for anything at ground level.

 - pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Youngman <[hidden email]>

DigiKey has it in 6” or 8” pieces of various diameters.  It runs around $25.00 per piece, with quantity discounts.  Not inexpensive …


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73, Peter W2IRT
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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

donovanf
In reply to this post by Peter W2IRT
Cold shrink tubing is widely available on eBay, usually about ten dollars each

----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email], "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 4:13:03 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where
is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go
through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5
years.

- pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On
Behalf Of [hidden email]
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat
shrink and cold shrink tubing


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw


73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]>
To: "Edward R Cole" <[hidden email]>, "Elecraft Reflector"
<[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors.

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


- pjd

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On

Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house.

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Re: FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Grant Youngman-2
The only thing that would concern me about buying this (NOS) material of unknown date of manufacture from eBay is that it does have a shelf life of 5 years in its pre-stretched state when properly stored (50-80 deg F at less than 75% relative humidity).  If it’s been stored in someone’s hot humid garage or been rattling around in a tool box in a pickup bed in the sun for a couple of years before it hits the auction site, there’s no telling.  I suspect at some point it won’t shrink as much as the specification.  But it is less expensive from most sellers than the retail pricing.

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 6, 2020, at 12:26 AM, [hidden email] wrote:
>
> Cold shrink tubing is widely available on eBay, usually about ten dollars each
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>

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