Fw: What is this stuff??

[n0jrn]

Thanks Peter and all:

OK,         my new K2  kits should be here today or tomorrow.
Just wanted to be sure I had the good stuff before starting.

I've used other solders with a silver compound and had good luck with them.

As for removing things after soldering,  ( hope that isn't needed :- )    I
was fortunate enough to come by an Xytonic's 988  some time ago and it's a
desoldering animal.

Anyway,    thanks again to all responses............

73                 Jerry



----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter PA0PJE" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What is this stuff??

> Hi Jerry,
>
> That's perfectly normal stuuf you have:
>
> Sn62= 62% Tin (Stannum)
> Pb36=36% Lead (Plumbium)
> Ag2=2% Silver (Argentum)
>
> Plus some flux (I hope...:-) to let it flow. Just let it melt on the iron
> and see if it smokes and you smell the resin.
>
> As solder that contains silver seems harder to remove from a PC board it's
> a bit less recommended, I read, but I used the same stuff to construct my
> K2 with SSB/NB/160/KAT2. It works fine and I did have to unsolder some
> parts, with which I had no difficulties.
>
> 73,
> Peter PA0PJE
>
> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht -----
> Van: "n0jrn" <[hidden email]>
> Aan: "Elecraft" <[hidden email]>
> Verzonden: vrijdag 12 oktober 2007 15:22
> Onderwerp: [Elecraft] What is this stuff??
>
>
>> Hey gang:
>>
>> A friend drop off some solder he didn't need.     I'm having trouble
>> identifying it so figured I would ask you.
>>
>> Made by Kester !
>>
>> Date of Man.   is      July 02
>>
>> Part #             14-7150
>>
>> SN62PB36AG02
>>
>> Diameter is    .015
>>
>> I can't find anything on the internet.    Is this stuff safe to use for
>> radio ??
>>
>> Just curious
>>
>> Thanks and 73             Jerry    N0JRN
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[KBG Luxford]

Jerry,

Removal of parts from the board IS occasionally necessary.  Examples are
(a) applying Elecraft modifications, and (b) installation of options.

Do read Tom Hammond's articles on soldering (they are on the Elecraft
website).  And also familiarise yourself with recommended soldering iron
temperatures for the different types of solder you may be considering.
Investment in a good temperature controlled iron with appropriate sized
tip (e.g. Weller, Hakko) is also recommended.

I found the little plastic component lead forming tool from Morse
Technologies to be invaluable for resistors and diodes.  A little trick
that I learned was to (a) put the resistor in the first slot on the
small component side of the tool, (b) bend the leads down with your
fingers, (c) press the bent leads against the side of the tool with
pliers to make sure the leads were nice and straight, then (d) clip the
leads about flush with the bottom of the tool.  If this is done right,
the resistor will just drop into the holes on the board.  In many cases
you can solder from the top of the board using gravity to hold the
component in.  The neat thing is that if you ever have to remove the
component, applying solder wick to the joint from the bottom of the
board, or using a good solder sucker to remove most of the solder means
that the component will be free to fall straight out, because this
method means that you do not have to bend the leads on the bottom of the
board to hold in the component while you solder.  Now if the component
does not come free after the application of solder wick or the sucker,
get a piece of bare, tinned bus wire of diameter just smaller than the
hole, hold it firmly with pliers, and from the bottom of the board
insert the end of the wire in one of the component holes.  Heat the wire
near the board with your soldering iron.  The wire will act like a
miniature iron and can be used to melt the residual solder and push the
component out leaving the hole nice and clean for the replacement component.

Don't act on my suggestions until the dust has settled.  By this I mean
that there are people on this list with professional training in
soldering techniques.  They will quickly respond to this post of mine if
they think it less than best practice.

My third K2 will be a model of soldering techniques!!

Best of luck and vy 73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP

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[Brett gazdzinski-2]

The way I remove most parts, is to use a solder sucker to get
most of the solder out of the joint, then I wiggle the pin till its loose
and then remove it.
If that does not work, I heat it and pry/pull from the top side.

I removed all my toroids to unwind a turn
(worked better before I removed a turn) without the slightest
damage to anything.

I have taken some big IC chips out this way, but its really slow...

I think almost everyone has to remove a part at some point
or another....and I don't see a problem with regular solder,
the last thing I would want is a higher melting temp.

Brett
N2DTS





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