Fwd: Grounding mic connector body on K2 front panel board

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Fwd: Grounding mic connector body on K2 front panel board

Ted Turk


> Dear All,
>
> Having read and thought about this one since building in Feb last year
> I 'attacked' the problem over the last two days.  A survey with the
> left side panel removed showed access was a bit tight and the run to
> the grounding loop a bit long.  So stripped the front panel right down
> to the bare board.  There is quite a ground land on the top side of
> the PCB around the Mic socket.  I acquired a fibreglass pencil from
> Maplin and cleaned away a small area of solder resist in the outside
> corner triangle of the PCB where "J2" is screen printed.  This tinned
> easily.  An adjacent area of mic socket body was also tinned and then
> a short length of stripped thick toroid wire was bent to shape and
> soldered in.  Another way to shorten the grounding link would be to
> use a solder tag to one of the protective short stand-offs next to the
> Mic socket.
>
> The K2/100 twin is still working this morning!!
>
> I suppose, if this or a similar mod proves satisfactory, at the next
> PCB update, a through-plated hole and small pad could be created in
> this corner to provide a more secure attachment?
>
> 73,
>
> Ted G7BQM
> K2#4732
>
> On 8 Feb 2006, at 16:20, <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>>> The mod is not difficult - remove the front panel and separate the
>>> board
>>> from the dress panel.  Then wrap a bare wire around the threads of
>>> the mic
>>> connector, twist it tight, and run one end over to the ground loop
>>> on the
>>> left end of the board - solder the wire to the mic connector body
>>> (requires
>>> a LOT of heat - dwell with the iron until the connector body itself
>>> melts
>>> the solder) and solder the other end to the ground loop.  Reassemble
>>> the
>>> front panel - Done.
>>>
>>> The original write-up by Wayne N6KR should be somewhere in the
>>> archives, I
>>> believe back in 2000 or 2001.
>>
>> I just did the mod on my K2's in an effort to remove RFI from the
>> audio. It is
>> much easier to just remove the left side panel. That gets you enough
>> access
>> to the mic connector and the ground loop without the trouble of
>> pulling the whole
>> front panel apart. I did not wrap the wire all the way around the
>> connector, just
>> soldering it seemed secure enough.
>>
>> Torsten
>> N4OGW
>

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