Got K2, many questions...

[Steve Kallal]

I just a got second hand K2 today and have some questions. For reference the
SN is 2289 and it has the 2004 mods.
 
1. I need to know about the CAL FIL function. I prefer a CW pitch of 400 Hz.
The previous owner had it set at 600 Hz. The manual states I might want to
use CAL FIL to adjust the BFO settings for a new pitch. The problem I am
having is that I can't get the filters to accept a 400 Hz pitch, even when
ST P is set to 400. The exception is the 1.5 kHz filter. The 700 Hz filter
sort of passes a 400 Hz tone. Since I didn't build the K2, I don't have the
frequency counter test cable mentioned in the CAL FIL section, at least I
don't think I do.
 
2. The K2 has the KAT2 internal ATU. I am getting HI CUR warning on an
antenna that is already matched. The antenna is a ladder line fed delta loop
through an old 275 watt Johnson Matchbox. I know the antenna is matched for
the portion I am using. The coax is connected to the ANTENNA  BNC instead of
ANT1 or ANT2. I tried setting ATU to CALP or CALS. I simply want to bypass
the ATU for home use. But I also want to use the internal SWR function to
manually tune the Johnson Matchbox. I will try the ANT1 or ANT2 BNC
connector. Perhaps that is what I should do. Reading the manual couldn't
hurt either, hi.
 
3. My last question is about the adding KPA100 option. I wish to keep the
KAT2 for portable operation. I know the KAT2 and KPA100 options are not
compatible. Can I switch between them in a short amount of time? I have
heard the top lid can be swapped on the fly to switch between the QRP and
100 watt modes. Is this an easy thing to do? I might want to use the KAT2 in
the field and KPA100 at home.
 
Do I have any takers on these questions?
 
73,
 
Steve N6VL
 
 
 
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[Paul Fletcher]

>I don't have the frequency counter test cable mentioned in the CAL FIL
>section, at least I don't think I do.

You need the counter probe to adjust the filters and it needs to be
connected. Check it's not inside the K2 - it's a short piece of coax with a
two pin header on one end and a single pin connector on the other. The
procedure is in the manual which you can download if you don't have it.
 
>The coax is connected to the ANTENNA  BNC instead of ANT1 or ANT2.

You must use ANT1 or ANT2 if the ATU is in place

>I might want to use the KAT2 in the field and KPA100 at home.

It takes about 2 minutes to swap the KPA100 for the QRP top cover. All
connections are plug/sockets

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Paul M1PAF


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[Brett gazdzinski-2]

 
 

> 1. I need to know about the CAL FIL function. I prefer a CW
> pitch of 400 Hz.
> The previous owner had it set at 600 Hz. The manual states I
> might want to
> use CAL FIL to adjust the BFO settings for a new pitch. The
> problem I am
> having is that I can't get the filters to accept a 400 Hz
> pitch, even when
> ST P is set to 400. The exception is the 1.5 kHz filter. The
> 700 Hz filter
> sort of passes a 400 Hz tone. Since I didn't build the K2, I
> don't have the
> frequency counter test cable mentioned in the CAL FIL
> section, at least I
> don't think I do.

400 Hz should be no problem, but you must go through all the calibration
steps to reset the bfo and filters.

>  
> 2. The K2 has the KAT2 internal ATU. I am getting HI CUR warning on an
> antenna that is already matched. The antenna is a ladder line
> fed delta loop
> through an old 275 watt Johnson Matchbox. I know the antenna
> is matched for
> the portion I am using. The coax is connected to the ANTENNA  
> BNC instead of
> ANT1 or ANT2. I tried setting ATU to CALP or CALS. I simply
> want to bypass
> the ATU for home use. But I also want to use the internal SWR
> function to
> manually tune the Johnson Matchbox. I will try the ANT1 or ANT2 BNC
> connector. Perhaps that is what I should do. Reading the
> manual couldn't
> hurt either, hi.

Use the built in atu, just hit the tune button and the K2
will get the swr low between the K2 and the matchbox.

Better yet would be to buy a low power balun and hook
the antenna directly to the K2 which can tune and remember
all the band settings so you can jump to any band
and just operate.

In any case, you want to know the swr, power output, and current
at the K2. The slightest swr turns down the power of the K2, even
10 feet of coax between the K2 and a tuner may cause power
reduction/high current.
Also, the current limit is adjustable and may be set too low.

>  
> 3. My last question is about the adding KPA100 option. I wish
> to keep the
> KAT2 for portable operation. I know the KAT2 and KPA100
> options are not
> compatible. Can I switch between them in a short amount of
> time? I have
> heard the top lid can be swapped on the fly to switch between
> the QRP and
> 100 watt modes. Is this an easy thing to do? I might want to
> use the KAT2 in
> the field and KPA100 at home.

It takes about 2 minutes to switch, you need to remove
and replace 6 screws and swap 3 connectors inside the rig.


>  
> Do I have any takers on these questions?
>  
> 73,
>  
> Steve N6VL
>  

The K2 with built in tuner is a slick little package,
adding the 100 watt top means a tuner is needed, which
spoils the slick little package aspect.
Before the K3, I was thinking of mounting the kpa100 with
the 100 watt tuner in one standalone box, that allows the basic
K2 to work as a standalone rig in the field, and as a 100 watt rig
at home, with no changes other than cables between the two boxes.
In either case, you push a button and the antenna is tuned.

Brett
N2DTS

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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Steve,

As others have replied, your filters should be re-aligned (particularly
the narrow ones) if you shift the pitch by 200 Hz.  A 50 Hz shift can
easily be accomplished without re-adjusting the filters, but the
response will fall off the edge of the more narrow filters if you go
further than that.
If you have the KDSP2 installed, you must also change the filter centers
on the DSP CW filters too or you will hear nothing.

Look for the counter probe or order a replacement kit from Elecraft,
download Specrtogram 5.17 (the last freeware version) from www.n0ss.net
and look at my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com - article 'Setting the
K2 Dial Calibration' for information about how to set the filters (the
filter setting is in 'Part 3' of the article.

2) When the KAT2 (or the KPA100) is installed, the BNC connector on the
lower rear panel of the K2 is no longer to be used - connecting an
antenna to that BNC will cause HI CUR warnings because the K2 cannot
sense the power output and will ramp the power up to maximum.

3) While swapping the top cover for the KPA100 is not a difficult chore,
if you plan the KPA100 and the KAT100, I would opt for putting them both
in an external EC2 enclosure.  The KAT100-2 has all the 'hooks' for
plugging the KPA100 into it's board making the QRP K2 available for
portable operations by just removing 2 cables.  The coax to the
KPA100/KAT100 combo connects to the KAT2 ANT1 connector and the KAT2 is
automatically bypassed.

I too would suggest that you replace the Matchbox with an Elecraft BL1
or BL2 balun.  The K2 will remember the tunings for each band and you
can change bands without any manual tuner 'knob twisting'.

73,
Don W3FPR

Steve Kallal wrote:
> I just a got second hand K2 today and have some questions. For reference the
> SN is 2289 and it has the 2004 mods.
>  
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