Hakko 808 wanted

[Ron D'Eau Claire-2]

If you are trying the "solder blob" method and  finding that it takes an
inordinate amount of time to work, try two things:

First, be sure you are heating some copper and not just enamel. At the very
least, make sure the cut end of the wire is in the blob so the end of the
copper is being heated. Better, scrape the wire slightly first to expose
some copper along the length you want to clean. One swipe on the "sharp"
edge of a blade screwdriver or a DULL knife is good to pop some enamel loose
along one thin line down the "side" of the wire.

Secondly, be sure you are using enough heat. I have a 275 watt (yes 275
watt!) soldering gun that I often use to burn off the enamel. At full heat,
it'll burn right through the enamel in short order <G>. When using my
soldering station, I crank up the heat to 800 F for removing enamel. (That's
one of the features I like about the Hakko soldering stations - a knob to
adjust the temperature with!)

Ron AC7AC



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[David M. Katinsky]

I want to second the importance of using enough heat. Initially, I tried to
remove the enamel at my soldering temp of 750 and it did work, but took
forever and was fairly frustrating. After deciding to move my temp up to 800
for this process, it was literally 5x faster and easier.

David N2RDT

--

"It takes brains. It's not like forward, where you can get away with
scoring and not play defense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios

David M. Katinsky
[hidden email]

> From: Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]>
> Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2004 00:07:43 -0700
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted
>
> When using my
> soldering station, I crank up the heat to 800 F for removing enamel. (That's
> one of the features I like about the Hakko soldering stations - a knob to
> adjust the temperature with!)

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[Don Brown-4]

Hi

I think I was the first to post this method several years ago. I have a Hakko 706 that I used for many years. This model is no longer made by Hakko. It is a separate gun and station with the pump in the base unit.

Someone posted a method to strip the leads using a Weller soldering gun with a 1/16 inch hole drilled into the tip. You inserted the wire into the hole added some solder and slowly pulled the wire through the hole while adding more solder. This sounded like an improvement on the solder blob method so I wanted to try it. I did not have a Weller soldering gun to try it on but then it hit me the desoldering station would do the same thing. So I tried it and was amazed when I pulled the trigger and the lead was perfectly stripped and tined. I have been doing it this way ever since.

I still have my 706 but bought a 808 also. I was not sure I would like the 808 because of the larger gun with the built in pump. After using it I found it is not a problem. The 808 has a more powerful pump and better tips (and cheaper tips) than the 706. It is also easier to clean. It is getting hard to find parts for the 706 as it has been out of production for many years. I now use the 808 most of the time when I need to remove a component or strip a toroid lead.

Don Brown
KD5NDB

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Tom Hammond<mailto:[hidden email]>
  To: Brian Mury<mailto:[hidden email]> ; [hidden email]<mailto:[hidden email]>
  Sent: Friday, August 27, 2004 11:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 wanted


  Hi Bryan:

  It bears NO similarity, other than the fact that the solder's heating the
  enamel and causing it to melt.

  This method takes about 3-4 seconds to accomplish while the solder-blob
  method usually takes 8-10 seconds and is not nrealy as easy to accomplish,
  though I still feel the solder blob method is the next best way to tin leads.

  too bad you can't find someone locally to try it out... the difference is
  astounding.

  Tom


  At 07:29 PM 8/27/04, Brian Mury wrote:
  >Thanks Tom.
  >

  <SNIP>
  > >
  > > I don't recall who first posted it here (maybe Don Brown), but here goes:
  > >
  <SNIP>
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[Bill Johnson-10]

Hakko also makes an excellent soldering station too!  I have that device
also and after using the RS for both the K-2 and KX1, then buying the Hakko,
I would love to have done them both with these tools. I have done some
updates with using both and what a breeze.  Once I get the QTH moved I will
do some more updates and maybe even build the K-1!  

Bill
K9YEQ
 
KX1 (FT - #35),  K2 (FT - #35)
 
 -----Original Message-----

Bear in mind that the Hakko 808 is a DEsoldering
station, not a soldering station.  It is WAY
better than the manual "solder-suckers" out there;
you just have to be willing to cough up the bucks.

73,

Bob  WA4FOM



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