Hako 808 bench stand

[srife]

    I used my Hako 808 for the first time today. I had also purchased the
Hako 633 iron holder. This thing works pretty well at holding the 808. I was
surprised, because I kept seeing traffic on the reflector about the trouble
people were having figuring out what to do with the 808 while it was plugged
in but not in use. At least for me, the 633 seems to be working out well,
almost like it was made for it.
    Also, since this is my first experience with the 808, I don't seem to be
getting the "clean holes" that some say you are supposed to get with this
thing. Maybe it's not quite hot enough, but I see solder still left on the
pads and I have to pop the legs loose from the remaining solder with my
finger nail or small probe. Is this characteristic, or do I need to turn the
heat up a bit. I am not sure about how long to hold the trigger for the
pump, but I figure a short pull should do it, otherwise you're just cooling
things off with the air flow beyond that.
 
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 
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[Don Brown-4]

Hi

Desoldering tools need a little practice and technique to work well. The iron needs to be a little hotter than a soldering iron. Maybe about 750 degrees and you will need to hold the iron on the pad a little longer then you would when making a solder joint. You want the pad, through hole and the part lead to all come up to molten solder temperature all the way through to the top of the board. Then right before you pull the trigger rotate the iron tip in a circular motion around the component lead and continue rotating as you pull the trigger. This becomes a natural motion with a little practice. The movement of the lead in the pad allows all of the solder to be removed and the component should literally fall out of the hole. If the part does not release, then do not try to break the lead free by pulling on the part. If the part will not break free with gentle movement you may pull out the plated through hole with the lead and ruin the board. It is better to add some fresh solder back to the lead, allow the board to cool, then try again with the above technique. When you pull the trigger do not hold it for more than about 1/2 to 1 second. Doing so just cools the tip and you may not get all of the solder out of the hole. It is also important to keep the iron clean with the cleaning tools. If the solder tube or filters are clogged then the vacuum will reduce and you will have problems with removal of the solder. You should run the cleaning wire through the tip and shake out the solder from the vial at regular intervals. You can clean the vial and metal baffle with WD-40 on a small rag

Don Brown
KD5NDB


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Stan<mailto:[hidden email]>
  To: Elecraft<mailto:[hidden email]>
  Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2005 2:09 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Hako 808 bench stand


      I used my Hako 808 for the first time today. I had also purchased the
  Hako 633 iron holder. This thing works pretty well at holding the 808. I was
  surprised, because I kept seeing traffic on the reflector about the trouble
  people were having figuring out what to do with the 808 while it was plugged
  in but not in use. At least for me, the 633 seems to be working out well,
  almost like it was made for it.
      Also, since this is my first experience with the 808, I don't seem to be
  getting the "clean holes" that some say you are supposed to get with this
  thing. Maybe it's not quite hot enough, but I see solder still left on the
  pads and I have to pop the legs loose from the remaining solder with my
  finger nail or small probe. Is this characteristic, or do I need to turn the
  heat up a bit. I am not sure about how long to hold the trigger for the
  pump, but I figure a short pull should do it, otherwise you're just cooling
  things off with the air flow beyond that.
   
  Stan Rife
  W5EWA
  Houston, TX
  K2 S/N 4216
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Post to: [hidden email]
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Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com