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I am planning

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Jerry and Sandy Gaule

I am planning

Ron D'Eau Claire-2

RE: I am planning

Dear ELECRAFT members...

I am working on my TECH W CODE...later GENERAL...I was thinking of going 10
meters/w QRP...due to limited space and yard...plus nosy neighbors....

my family will be working on theirs later for TECH W/CODE...I am using
Farnsworth for my CODE..at 5 WPM...for some time I was hitting the CODE
wall....as well get into contests and so on...I am planning to buy a K2
ELECRAFT...what would you recommend...tips and ideas....thanks...

--------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Jerry, Sandy or both:

Unless you live in a metropolitan area with lots of 10 meter activity and
you're happy with only local contacts, I think you'll be disappointed in 10
meters. It is on the lower edge of the VHF region and only sees typical
shortwave "skip" propagation during the more active years of each sunspot
cycle. We are approaching a minimum sunspot period in which for the next
several years openings to make contacts on 10 meters more than a few miles
away will become quite rare.

I'd recommend 40 meters as your beginning band, in spite of severe space
restrictions. It's usually "open" to somewhere at all hours and has a lot of
activity. If you can put up a wire at least 33 feet long and feed it at the
center with open wire line, it'll work very well on 40, 30, 20, 18, 15, 12
and 10 meters. Even at sunspot minimums, you will occasionally find the
bands above 40 meters open to DX. Get a KAT2 or KAT100 ATU with that K2
(depending upon whether you're getting a K2 or K2/100) and an Elecraft BL2
balun to make the transition from the open wire line to the output of your
ATU at the rig. The BL2 is especially nice because if the impedance at the
end of your feeders is something the ATU has a problem with on some bands,
switching between 1:1 and 4:1 with the toggle on the BL2 will usually fix
that with little fuss.

Now, 33 feet for a wire is short for a 40 meter doublet. The ideal length is
66 feet or more. If you can make the wire longer, do so, but a 33 ft wire
will radiate only about 1 dB less than a full-size antenna! 1 dB is simply
too small for the other station to detect in virtually any situation. So do
not pass up the doublet idea simply because you can't put up a lot of wire.

I've used antennas like that in my attic when I could absolutely not have an
outdoor wire, but it's always best to get the antenna outside, even if it's
only a few inches above your roof line. You can bend it as needed to fit the
space and supports. Try to do as much of the bending out near the ends as
possible, and if you must bend it, keep the angle of the bend greater than
90 degrees. Other than that, whatever you can fit in will get a signal out!

The center fed antenna has the advantage that its performance is not
dependent upon a good RF ground. A good RF ground is sort of the "Holy
Grail" of radio antennas. Countless hours of experimentation and probably
millions of miles of copper wire have been dedicated to getting the best RF
ground possible, strung out in various ways. That can be an interesting
pursuit all its own, but if getting the most RF into the sky with the least
hassle is your goal, I strongly recommend staying with the center-fed wire
or "doublet" as it's usually called.

If running some open wire line (or as a second-best feeder some "ladder
line" that looks like huge TV twinlead) is simply not something you can do,
try an end-fed wire of whatever length you can get up. At least 33 feet for
40 meters, and longer is always better. In that case you'll need to arrange
an RF ground for your rig. Probably the easiest such "ground" that will work
fairly well is a wire 1/4 wavelength long. That's 33 feet on 40, 16 feet on
20 meters, and so on. You don't need the ground wire up high. Indeed, it can
be run along the baseboard in the house, but the far end must be insulated
and kept away from people and pets. It can produce a nasty RF burn if
someone touches it while you're transmitting. It won't produce a shock, but
it might cause a very painful burn to the skin that takes a long time to
heal.

I'd recommend an end fed wire over a coax-fed doublet of some odd length.
Coax works well when hooked to a center fed 1/2 wave long "dipole", but when
the antenna is not 1/2 wavelength long the coax feedline will be subjected
to a very high SWR. Coax lines become very lossy at high SWR's. Open wire
lines are quite efficient, even at high SWR. That's why they are recommended
for doublet antennas.

And resign yourself to this truth. In fact, learn to enjoy this simple
issue: As long as you are a Ham, you'll always be thinking about a better
antenna. There's never yet been antenna so good that another one might not
be better. So don't get paralyzed because you can't do what seems "ideal".
Start with what you can and work from there.

Ron AC7AC

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Stephen W. Kercel

Re: I am planning

In reply to this post by Jerry and Sandy Gaule

Gerald:

With Tech Plus privileges you can work 15 meters as well as 10. Admittedly,
you could work SSB on 10, but are limited to CW on 15. However, if you're
planning for QRP and simple antennas, you'll probably have more success on
CW than SSB.

Anyway, you might consider trying to operate on 15 meters instead of (or as
well as) 10 meters. A half-wave dipole is only about 8 feet longer, and
during this period of low sunspot activity, 10 meter openings are much less
common than 15 meter openings. You will meet with far more success, and
enjoy the experience more on 15, at least for now.

Since you're planning to use QRP, you will probably be a lot more satisfied
with your results if you use a full size antenna such as a half-wave
dipole. Full size stealth antennas are easily feasible on both 10 and 15 m.

At what speed are you hitting the code wall? If your proficiency is already
good enough to pass the 5 WPM exam, you need not worry about it. Once you
get licensed and on the air, your speed will increase spontaneously in the
normal course of operating.

For heaven's sake, don't be embarrassed about being slow on the air. QRS is
a legitimate procedural signal, and it exists for a reason.Nobody will
think any less of you if operate slowly; we were all beginners once. It is
the responsibility of the faster operator to go at the speed of the slower
operator. With the exception of a few lids (who you don't want to talk to
anyway) everyone will slow down to your speed, and nobody will tease you
about it.

Don't worry about contests (except maybe "Get Your Feet Wet") right away.
You need to gain some experience making ordinary QSOs. When you're ready to
start contesting, you'll know it.

As Elecraft points out, building a K2 is not a timed event. Although you'll
no doubt enjoy building it, do not expect to get on the air any time soon
if you go that route.

One suggestion is not to skimp on the antenna. Use good feedline, and
weather proofing, and make it of quality materials. Stealthy does not mean
shoddy. For a beginning operator using QRP, you cannot afford to give
anything away in antenna losses.

One tip I'd pass on is one that was passed on to me when I started out.
You'd be better off not getting mixed up with 2 meters right away. You'll
enjoy greater success if you get some HF CW experience under your belt first.

One final tip, if there is any way for you to get on 40 meters, you should
probably start there first. As a very wise old salt told me about 40 years
ago, the fewest things seem to go wrong on 40 m. That is what I did
personally, and several novices have thanked me for passing that advice on
to them.

Good luck and 73,

Steve
AA4AK

At 01:36 PM 10/16/2005 -0700, Jerry and Sandy Gaule wrote:

>
>Dear ELECRAFT members...
>
>I am working on my TECH W CODE...later GENERAL...I was thinking of going
>10 meters/w QRP...due to limited space and yard...plus nosy
>neighbors....
>
>
>
>my family will be working on theirs later for TECH W/CODE...I am using
>Farnsworth for my CODE..at 5 WPM...for some time I was hitting the CODE
>wall....as well get into contests and so on...I am planning to buy a K2
>ELECRAFT...what would you recommend...tips and ideas....thanks...
>
>
>
>What advice would you have for equipment and set up...I am looking for
>any USED HF/2 meter equipment...thanks 73...Gerald..
>
>
>
>[hidden email]
>
>_______________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Post to: [hidden email]
>You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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Darwin, Keith

RE: I am planning

In reply to this post by Jerry and Sandy Gaule

Good advise.

Once you get on the air (at 5 wpm or even less :-), don't worry about
code speed. Fill up several pages in your log book. Then maybe you can
check your speed. Getting faster takes time. CW itself is a hobby and
for many of us, CW is as much fun as the rest of ham radio.

When I was a novice I didn't like CW. I finally upgraded to General (13
wpm) and went immediately for SSB. At the time I was using a Heath
HW-101 with an indoor dipole. I made a few contacts but found I could
not routinely work stations. I went back to CW because it was easier to
work stations with the weak signal if I was on CW. About the time I hit
15 wpm, I suddenly discovered CW was fun.

QRP is a tough way to start a ham hobby. I'd say you're better off
buying a no-hassles rig that puts out 50 or more watts. Don't handicap
yourself. You need to have QSOs, not spend your time trying to call
stations that can't hear you.

40 meters is a great band, probably the best overall. 15 is another
fabulous band for limited space usage. You can do a lot with just those
two bands. At this time the sunspot cycle doesn't provide much
communications on 10 meters.

- Keith -

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Stephen W. Kercel
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 7:27 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I am planning

Gerald:

With Tech Plus privileges you can work 15 meters as well as 10.
Admittedly, you could work SSB on 10, but are limited to CW on 15.
However, if you're planning for QRP and simple antennas, you'll probably
have more success on CW than SSB.

Anyway, you might consider trying to operate on 15 meters instead of (or
as well as) 10 meters. A half-wave dipole is only about 8 feet longer,
and during this period of low sunspot activity, 10 meter openings are
much less common than 15 meter openings. You will meet with far more
success, and enjoy the experience more on 15, at least for now.

Since you're planning to use QRP, you will probably be a lot more
satisfied with your results if you use a full size antenna such as a
half-wave dipole. Full size stealth antennas are easily feasible on both
10 and 15 m.

At what speed are you hitting the code wall? If your proficiency is
already good enough to pass the 5 WPM exam, you need not worry about it.
Once you get licensed and on the air, your speed will increase
spontaneously in the normal course of operating.

For heaven's sake, don't be embarrassed about being slow on the air. QRS
is a legitimate procedural signal, and it exists for a reason.Nobody
will think any less of you if operate slowly; we were all beginners
once. It is the responsibility of the faster operator to go at the speed
of the slower operator. With the exception of a few lids (who you don't
want to talk to
anyway) everyone will slow down to your speed, and nobody will tease you
about it.

Don't worry about contests (except maybe "Get Your Feet Wet") right
away.
You need to gain some experience making ordinary QSOs. When you're ready
to start contesting, you'll know it.

As Elecraft points out, building a K2 is not a timed event. Although
you'll no doubt enjoy building it, do not expect to get on the air any
time soon if you go that route.

One suggestion is not to skimp on the antenna. Use good feedline, and
weather proofing, and make it of quality materials. Stealthy does not
mean shoddy. For a beginning operator using QRP, you cannot afford to
give anything away in antenna losses.

One tip I'd pass on is one that was passed on to me when I started out.
You'd be better off not getting mixed up with 2 meters right away.
You'll enjoy greater success if you get some HF CW experience under your
belt first.

One final tip, if there is any way for you to get on 40 meters, you
should probably start there first. As a very wise old salt told me about
40 years ago, the fewest things seem to go wrong on 40 m. That is what I
did personally, and several novices have thanked me for passing that
advice on to them.

Good luck and 73,

Steve
AA4AK

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Stephen W. Kercel

RE: I am planning

In reply to this post by Jerry and Sandy Gaule

One more detail useful to the beginner. A half wave dipole for 40 m will
give excellent performance on 15 m as well. You get two bands for the price
of one.

Steve
AA4AK

>.......
>40 meters is a great band, probably the best overall. 15 is another
>fabulous band ......
>- Keith -

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Stephen W. Kercel

RE: I am planning

In reply to this post by Jerry and Sandy Gaule

>........QRP is a tough way to start a ham hobby. I'd say you're better off
>buying a no-hassles rig that puts out 50 or more watts. Don't handicap
>yourself. You need to have QSOs, not spend your time trying to call
>stations that can't hear you.
>.......
>
>- Keith -

Amen!

QRP is a joy to the experienced operator, but for the rank beginner it can
be terribly frustrating.

50 W is an excellent power level for a new ham

Steve
AA4AK

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N2EY

Re: I am planning

In reply to this post by Jerry and Sandy Gaule

In a message dated 10/18/05 3:01:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[hidden email] writes:

> QRP is a tough way to start a ham hobby. I'd say you're better off
> buying a no-hassles rig that puts out 50 or more watts. Don't handicap
> yourself. You need to have QSOs, not spend your time trying to call
> stations that can't hear you.
>

I disagree - somewhat.

QRP with a good antenna is better than QRO with a poor antenna. QRP with a
poor antenna is a study in frustration.

73 de Jim, N2EY

..who started out 38 years and 3 days ago with a 10 watt-input rig on 80 CW
and a wire to the apple tree....
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