Installing KSB2
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My bare-bones K2 is almost completely assembled and ready for final testing.
I will probably build a KSB2 within the next few months. I don't expect to add too many other options other than the KNB2, which I already have and possibly the K160RX. How much work is to install the KSB2? Since everything is still apart, is it worth getting any of the Un-module/Rework eliminators or parts kits to save time later on? I can see where installing some headers or caps now would be convenient, but don't want to over-complicate my final testing and alignment process. I am a former electronic tech and not bothered by unsoldering components. Any suggestions are appreciated. This list has been a great resource during my build process, which has gone very well. Thanks to all. Phil Zminda N3ZP _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Hi Phil,
To me, I do not see any need of the rework eliminators. Once your basic K2 is functional, the installation KSB2 is simple. The design of K2 is modular basis so that you can add anything in later stage. I am using GOOT desoldering gun (US$150 only) so that desoldering work to me is easy. I do not need the rework eliminators. 73 Johnny VR2XMC From: "Phil Zminda" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] Installing KSB2 Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 21:55:43 -0500 My bare-bones K2 is almost completely assembled and ready for final testing. I will probably build a KSB2 within the next few months. I don't expect to add too many other options other than the KNB2, which I already have and possibly the K160RX. How much work is to install the KSB2? Since everything is still apart, is it worth getting any of the Un-module/Rework eliminators or parts kits to save time later on? I can see where installing some headers or caps now would be convenient, but don't want to over-complicate my final testing and alignment process. I am a former electronic tech and not bothered by unsoldering components. Any suggestions are appreciated. This list has been a great resource during my build process, which has gone very well. Thanks to all. Phil Zminda N3ZP _________________________________________________________________ 享用世界上最大的电子邮件系统― MSN Hotmail。 http://www.hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Phillip Zminda
Hello Phil:
I wouldn't bother, based on what you wrote. I haven't found it at all difficult to install the various modules as I built my K2 over the years. The SSB module is particularly easy. I've disassembled and reassembled my K2 dozens of times over the years while testing various mods and add-ons with and without various modules installed. I've never once thought the process was at all difficult and I'm happy that I don't have extra plugs and headers with jumpers installed for modules I don't have and may never add. Pulling a module and rigging a couple of wire jumpers for the header for testing without it has never been a problem. In the case of the SSB module, one of the "jumpers" is a disc ceramic capacitor that provides d-c blocking in the signal path. I removed it from the board and taped it inside the cover of the SSB module manual where I can pull it off and slip it into the proper holes in the connector if I want to remove the SSB module for any reason. For most of the other modules, it's a matter of using a couple of clipped component leads to fashion jumpers that slip into the connectors to complete the circuit with the module removed. Unless you get into doing a lot of testing and modifying, it's unlikely you'll ever need to remove a module anyway. But, like you, I've got a lot of experience with a soldering iron in the field and at the lab bench. Maybe that's the difference. Ron -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Phil Zminda Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 6:56 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] Installing KSB2 My bare-bones K2 is almost completely assembled and ready for final testing. I will probably build a KSB2 within the next few months. I don't expect to add too many other options other than the KNB2, which I already have and possibly the K160RX. How much work is to install the KSB2? Since everything is still apart, is it worth getting any of the Un-module/Rework eliminators or parts kits to save time later on? I can see where installing some headers or caps now would be convenient, but don't want to over-complicate my final testing and alignment process. I am a former electronic tech and not bothered by unsoldering components. Any suggestions are appreciated. This list has been a great resource during my build process, which has gone very well. Thanks to all. Phil Zminda N3ZP _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Phillip Zminda
Phil,
The KSB2 installation requires only the removal of one capacitor and two wire jumpers from the RF board. The hard part is disassembling the front panel to install the parts for the microphone input, but no de-soldering there. The K160RX requires only the removal of one jumper - all the rest are added capacitors The KNB2 is the 'hardest', it requires removing one jumper and 3 resistors. IMHO, the potential problems with 'rework eliminators' (making an eror or forgetting to install the RW boards when testing) exceed the benefit gained, but your mileage may vary. The rework eliminator that really complicates things is the one for the K60XV. I do not recommend installing any parts for that one until you have the K60XV option in hand. Your K2 VFO range cannot be correctly tested if you install the parts and do not plug in the K60XV option itself. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > My bare-bones K2 is almost completely assembled and ready for > final testing. > I will probably build a KSB2 within the next few months. I don't > expect to > add too many other options other than the KNB2, which I already have and > possibly the K160RX. How much work is to install the KSB2? Since > everything > is still apart, is it worth getting any of the Un-module/Rework > eliminators > or parts kits to save time later on? I can see where installing > some headers > or caps now would be convenient, but don't want to > over-complicate my final > testing and alignment process. I am a former electronic tech and not > bothered by unsoldering components. > > Any suggestions are appreciated. This list has been a great > resource during > my build process, which has gone very well. Thanks to all. > > Phil Zminda N3ZP > No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.4/615 - Release Date: 1/3/2007 1:34 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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