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Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

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DL9HDA

Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

Hi,

my K2 works well but I have issues with my KPA100. KPA100 and KAT100 are
both situated in an external enclosure but the KAT100 is permanently
disabled (cal-mode). I used the KPA100 to drive my tube-amplifier ...

I cannot exactly say what happend but for a year or so the maximum
output power on all bands has been only 60W. It's enough for the tube-pa
but now the output is zero.

If I change the band or hit the antenna-switch the relays are working.
So the communication seems to be OK.

While pressing tune the K2 says high current and there is absolutely no
output-power an the K2 and of course at the KPA100. (The K2 without any
connections to the second enclosure works pretty well!!!).

So the first guess was to check the diodes D16 and D17. I did not
desolder them but I made some measurements with mit Fluke 177.

D16: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.390 V. The
resistor-values are 95.7 KOhms and 104,6 KOhms
D17: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.387 V. The
resistor-values are 95.5 KOhms and 105,2 KOhms

Not so bad I think but what might be the problem? Any hints?

Best regards

Holger, DL9HDA
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

Holger,

Those resistance values indicate that D16 and D17 in the KPA100 are
faulty. The resistance in the forward direction should normally be much
lower. You can check to see if your ohmmeter is reading properly by
measuring a new or known good small signal diode.

I believe if you check the power output with an external wattmeter and
connected to a dummy load, you will find a higher than normal power even
though the K2 display and LED Bargraph indicate no power.

You might want to check D1 and D2 in the KAT100 as well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2014 3:09 PM, [hidden email] wrote:

> Hi,
>
> my K2 works well but I have issues with my KPA100. KPA100 and KAT100
> are both situated in an external enclosure but the KAT100 is
> permanently disabled (cal-mode). I used the KPA100 to drive my
> tube-amplifier ...
>
> I cannot exactly say what happend but for a year or so the maximum
> output power on all bands has been only 60W. It's enough for the
> tube-pa but now the output is zero.
>
> If I change the band or hit the antenna-switch the relays are working.
> So the communication seems to be OK.
>
> While pressing tune the K2 says high current and there is absolutely
> no output-power an the K2 and of course at the KPA100. (The K2 without
> any connections to the second enclosure works pretty well!!!).
>
> So the first guess was to check the diodes D16 and D17. I did not
> desolder them but I made some measurements with mit Fluke 177.
>
> D16: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.390 V. The
> resistor-values are 95.7 KOhms and 104,6 KOhms
> D17: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.387 V. The
> resistor-values are 95.5 KOhms and 105,2 KOhms
>

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DL9HDA

Re: Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

Dear Don,

thank you very much for your answer. I checked it with an wattmeter and
a dummy load. Nothing.

But I checked the voltages at the diodes especially D11, D12, D13 and
D14 in receive-mode:

D12 and D14 have the right voltages at the anodes and cathodes when I
switch from low-power to high-power and vice-versa.

But the voltages at D11 and D13 are wrong. The voltages at the anodes
and cathodes are always 13,8V. There are no voltages about ~140V. At D12
and D14 I can measure this high voltages at the cathodes.

best regards
Holger, DL9HDA

Am 2014-05-05 21:55, schrieb Don Wilhelm:

> Holger,
>
> Those resistance values indicate that D16 and D17 in the KPA100 are
> faulty. The resistance in the forward direction should normally be
> much lower. You can check to see if your ohmmeter is reading properly
> by measuring a new or known good small signal diode.
>
> I believe if you check the power output with an external wattmeter and
> connected to a dummy load, you will find a higher than normal power
> even though the K2 display and LED Bargraph indicate no power.
>
> You might want to check D1 and D2 in the KAT100 as well.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/5/2014 3:09 PM, [hidden email] wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> my K2 works well but I have issues with my KPA100. KPA100 and KAT100
>> are both situated in an external enclosure but the KAT100 is
>> permanently disabled (cal-mode). I used the KPA100 to drive my
>> tube-amplifier ...
>>
>> I cannot exactly say what happend but for a year or so the maximum
>> output power on all bands has been only 60W. It's enough for the
>> tube-pa but now the output is zero.
>>
>> If I change the band or hit the antenna-switch the relays are working.
>> So the communication seems to be OK.
>>
>> While pressing tune the K2 says high current and there is absolutely
>> no output-power an the K2 and of course at the KPA100. (The K2 without
>> any connections to the second enclosure works pretty well!!!).
>>
>> So the first guess was to check the diodes D16 and D17. I did not
>> desolder them but I made some measurements with mit Fluke 177.
>>
>> D16: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.390 V. The
>> resistor-values are 95.7 KOhms and 104,6 KOhms
>> D17: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.387 V. The
>> resistor-values are 95.5 KOhms and 105,2 KOhms
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

Holger,

That indicates that D11 is shorted. I would replace D11, D12 and D14
and remeasure.
Do not substitute - use only 1N4007s. While those are normally power
diodes, they work well for switching purposes too, and that is not true
of most other diode types.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2014 4:05 PM, [hidden email] wrote:

> Dear Don,
>
> thank you very much for your answer. I checked it with an wattmeter
> and a dummy load. Nothing.
>
> But I checked the voltages at the diodes especially D11, D12, D13 and
> D14 in receive-mode:
>
> D12 and D14 have the right voltages at the anodes and cathodes when I
> switch from low-power to high-power and vice-versa.
>
> But the voltages at D11 and D13 are wrong. The voltages at the anodes
> and cathodes are always 13,8V. There are no voltages about ~140V. At
> D12 and D14 I can measure this high voltages at the cathodes.
>
>
>
> best regards
> Holger, DL9HDA
>
>
>
>
> Am 2014-05-05 21:55, schrieb Don Wilhelm:
>> Holger,
>>
>> Those resistance values indicate that D16 and D17 in the KPA100 are
>> faulty. The resistance in the forward direction should normally be
>> much lower. You can check to see if your ohmmeter is reading properly
>> by measuring a new or known good small signal diode.
>>
>> I believe if you check the power output with an external wattmeter and
>> connected to a dummy load, you will find a higher than normal power
>> even though the K2 display and LED Bargraph indicate no power.
>>
>> You might want to check D1 and D2 in the KAT100 as well.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 5/5/2014 3:09 PM, [hidden email] wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> my K2 works well but I have issues with my KPA100. KPA100 and KAT100
>>> are both situated in an external enclosure but the KAT100 is
>>> permanently disabled (cal-mode). I used the KPA100 to drive my
>>> tube-amplifier ...
>>>
>>> I cannot exactly say what happend but for a year or so the maximum
>>> output power on all bands has been only 60W. It's enough for the
>>> tube-pa but now the output is zero.
>>>
>>> If I change the band or hit the antenna-switch the relays are
>>> working. So the communication seems to be OK.
>>>
>>> While pressing tune the K2 says high current and there is absolutely
>>> no output-power an the K2 and of course at the KPA100. (The K2
>>> without any connections to the second enclosure works pretty well!!!).
>>>
>>> So the first guess was to check the diodes D16 and D17. I did not
>>> desolder them but I made some measurements with mit Fluke 177.
>>>
>>> D16: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.390 V. The
>>> resistor-values are 95.7 KOhms and 104,6 KOhms
>>> D17: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.387 V. The
>>> resistor-values are 95.5 KOhms and 105,2 KOhms
>>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

In reply to this post by DL9HDA

Holger,

I didn't think of it before the last response, but be certain you are
using the correct Diode Voltage chart.
If you have a newer KPA100 or one that has been upgraded - with blue
toroid cores at RFC1 and L15, then you must use the newer voltage chart
(download the most recent KPA100 manual).
With the newer design, the only place you will find a high voltage is at
the cathodes of D12 and D14.

OTOH, if you had red toroid cores at L15 and L16, you have the older
KPA100 and the Diode Voltages in your manual should be correct.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2014 4:05 PM, [hidden email] wrote:

DL9HDA

Re: Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

Hi, the KPA100 is alive. I startet to desolder D16 and D17 but D16
broke. D17 was OK. I soldered two new 1N5711 and now after some minor
adjustments the KPA100 is back!

best regards
Holger. DL9HDA

Am 2014-05-05 22:20, schrieb Don Wilhelm:

> Holger,
>
> That indicates that D11 is shorted. I would replace D11, D12 and D14
> and remeasure.
> Do not substitute - use only 1N4007s. While those are normally power
> diodes, they work well for switching purposes too, and that is not
> true of most other diode types.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 5/5/2014 4:05 PM, [hidden email] wrote:
>> Dear Don,
>>
>> thank you very much for your answer. I checked it with an wattmeter
>> and a dummy load. Nothing.
>>
>> But I checked the voltages at the diodes especially D11, D12, D13 and
>> D14 in receive-mode:
>>
>> D12 and D14 have the right voltages at the anodes and cathodes when I
>> switch from low-power to high-power and vice-versa.
>>
>> But the voltages at D11 and D13 are wrong. The voltages at the anodes
>> and cathodes are always 13,8V. There are no voltages about ~140V. At
>> D12 and D14 I can measure this high voltages at the cathodes.
>>
>>
>>
>> best regards
>> Holger, DL9HDA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Am 2014-05-05 21:55, schrieb Don Wilhelm:
>>> Holger,
>>>
>>> Those resistance values indicate that D16 and D17 in the KPA100 are
>>> faulty. The resistance in the forward direction should normally be
>>> much lower. You can check to see if your ohmmeter is reading
>>> properly
>>> by measuring a new or known good small signal diode.
>>>
>>> I believe if you check the power output with an external wattmeter
>>> and
>>> connected to a dummy load, you will find a higher than normal power
>>> even though the K2 display and LED Bargraph indicate no power.
>>>
>>> You might want to check D1 and D2 in the KAT100 as well.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 5/5/2014 3:09 PM, [hidden email] wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> my K2 works well but I have issues with my KPA100. KPA100 and KAT100
>>>> are both situated in an external enclosure but the KAT100 is
>>>> permanently disabled (cal-mode). I used the KPA100 to drive my
>>>> tube-amplifier ...
>>>>
>>>> I cannot exactly say what happend but for a year or so the maximum
>>>> output power on all bands has been only 60W. It's enough for the
>>>> tube-pa but now the output is zero.
>>>>
>>>> If I change the band or hit the antenna-switch the relays are
>>>> working. So the communication seems to be OK.
>>>>
>>>> While pressing tune the K2 says high current and there is absolutely
>>>> no output-power an the K2 and of course at the KPA100. (The K2
>>>> without any connections to the second enclosure works pretty
>>>> well!!!).
>>>>
>>>> So the first guess was to check the diodes D16 and D17. I did not
>>>> desolder them but I made some measurements with mit Fluke 177.
>>>>
>>>> D16: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.390 V. The
>>>> resistor-values are 95.7 KOhms and 104,6 KOhms
>>>> D17: Diode-Voltage zero and the other direction shows 0.387 V. The
>>>> resistor-values are 95.5 KOhms and 105,2 KOhms
>>>>
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Issues with KPA100 (K2/10 is 100% OK)

That is good news Holger.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/8/2014 3:53 PM, [hidden email] wrote:
> Hi, the KPA100 is alive. I startet to desolder D16 and D17 but D16
> broke. D17 was OK. I soldered two new 1N5711 and now after some minor
> adjustments the KPA100 is back!
>

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W2RMS

Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

Hi Don, list!
I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3.
The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
Line out is free for now.
I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink should be able to use that as well, right?
If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable with RJ-45.

Please advise.
Thanks in advance.

__________________
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
[hidden email]

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

Slava,

Certainly that would be possible, but the output of the Signalink would
have to be set at mic level rather than line level.

I would think it should be easier to simply use a "Y" adapter on the
Line In of the K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/9/2014 8:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
> Hi Don, list!
> I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
> I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3.
> The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
> Line out is free for now.
> I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink should be able to use that as well, right?
> If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable with RJ-45.
>

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Kevin Stover

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

In reply to this post by W2RMS

On 5/9/2014 7:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

> Hi Don, list!
> I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink USB box to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector?
> I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3.
> The K3's rear line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff.
> Line out is free for now.
> I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink should be able to use that as well, right?
> If all the necessary pins are there i could make up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable with RJ-45.
>
> Please advise.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> __________________
> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
> [hidden email]

Do you have the tools for crimping RJ-45 connectors on CAT5/6?
If not buy the proper cable from Signalink. It's cheaper.

--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441

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Jim Brown-10

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

In reply to this post by W2RMS

On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
> I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3.

What is "my audio stuff" that you are currently using? If it's to/from
an internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB
audio interface. FWIW, the SignalLink box is highly overrated, thanks to
advertising by those who sell it. And "help" info on the DX Engineering
website to solve RFI issues strongly suggest that it has a Pin One Problem.

There are several USB audio interfaces sold mostly to DJs and home
studios that work very well for us. Several years ago, I bought and
tested thoroughly two low cost units that work VERY well -- much better
decoding of digital signals, especially weak ones. The simple Numark
stereo interface costs about $35, the now discontinued Tascam US100 was
$75, and was replaced by a US120 that costs more. They work equally
well, and neither has a Pin One Problem.

73, Jim K9YC
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Phil Wheeler-2

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

In reply to this post by W2RMS

I have the SL-USB and the Tigertronics cable set
and jumper block for the K2. When I acquired the
K3 I considered using the front mic connection
with the K3. I concluded the K2 cable and block
would work with the K3. Never tested it because I
ended up using the rear connections for the SL_USB.

Perhaps someone has gone farther with this and can
confirm or deny.

73, Phil w7ox

On 5/9/14, 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Richard Ferch

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

In reply to this post by W2RMS

Slava,

If you are using a microphone input for data modes, adjusting the mic
gain input for the data mode interface will affect the mic gain with
your microphone. You will probably find this annoying.

The usual arrangement is to configure voice modes to use the front- or
rear-panel microphone input, as appropriate for your microphone, with
the mic gain level set properly for the mike, and then to configure Data
modes to use Line In, with the Line In level set appropriately for data
mode input. The Line In level and the microphone input level are
independent, so adjusting the Line In level for data modes has no effect
on microphone input levels, which is not the case if you use a
microphone input for data modes.

If you use a sound card for voice keying, you can use the same sound
card for Data modes. You would configure MIC+LIN to be on for voice
modes and off for Data modes. By controlling the microphone input level
to the sound card when you use it as a voice keyer, you can set things
up so the Line In level that works for data modes is also the correct
setting for voice keying in voice modes. You don't need separate sound
cards or interfaces for Data vs. voice modes.

73,
Rich VE3KI

W2RMS wrote:

> Hi Don, list!
> I wanted to ask you if it would be possible to make a cable for the Signalink USB box \
> to connect to the K3's 8-pin front side mic connector? I have the Signalink box that \
> i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3. The K3's rear \
> line-in is currently taken by my audio stuff. Line out is free for now.
> I see that RigBlaster has an option of using K3's 8-pin, so i'm sure Signalink should \
> be able to use that as well, right? If all the necessary pins are there i could make \
> up a CAT5 (or even 6) cable with RJ-45.
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Wes (N7WS)

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin micconnector

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

Normally, I defer to your expertise. However, my experience is that the
SignaLink is no better or no worse than the built-in sound card in my Lenovo
T400 laptop.

Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one. I saw
no difference with it either. It appears to me that the RTTY SNR is set at the
K3 Line Out and a lower noise/higher dynamic range sound card is unnecessary.
If I'm wrong (always a distinct possibility) I would like to know how. I
"retired" the SignaLink mainly because I was out of USB ports on the laptop.

Wes N7WS

On 5/9/2014 7:02 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

> On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
>> I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also
>> try it with the K3.
>
> What is "my audio stuff" that you are currently using? If it's to/from an
> internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB audio
> interface. FWIW, the SignalLink box is highly overrated, thanks to advertising
> by those who sell it. And "help" info on the DX Engineering website to solve
> RFI issues strongly suggest that it has a Pin One Problem.
>
> There are several USB audio interfaces sold mostly to DJs and home studios
> that work very well for us. Several years ago, I bought and tested thoroughly
> two low cost units that work VERY well -- much better decoding of digital
> signals, especially weak ones. The simple Numark stereo interface costs about
> $35, the now discontinued Tascam US100 was $75, and was replaced by a US120
> that costs more. They work equally well, and neither has a Pin One Problem.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> ______________________________________________________________
>

Jim Brown-10

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin micconnector

On 5/9/2014 1:26 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
> Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one.

Hi Wes,

I did my testing with JT65HF on he HF bands, with the K3 output feeding
both one Thinkpad internal sound card and the Tascam feeding a second
Thinkpad. I did the same comparison between the Numark and internal,
then between the Tascam and the Numark. My criteria was the number of
good decodes for each 1 minute pass. The Tascam and Numark boxes
consistently decoded twice as many signals per 1 minute pass. The
internal sound card rarely decoded a signal weaker than an indicated
-12, whereas the Tascam and Numark regularly decoded additional signals
down to -20, with occasional -22 decodes. I attribute that to better
performance near the bottom of the A/D. When comparing the two USB
boxes to each other, roughly once in ten passes, one would decode a
signal that the other would not, but neither was better than the other
-- on one pass the Tascam would miss a station that the Numark copied,
then 5-10 minutes later the Numark would miss a station that the Tascam
copied. This was quite extensive -- in addition to watching the nigher
bands, I even let them run overnight on 160, then compare decodes the
next morning.

I found performance "a bit better" with RTTY, but did no equivalent
testing to substantiate that, because I found the JT65 results far more
quantifiable and repeatable. So for RTTY contesting, the Tascam is on
one rig feeding one laptop, and the Numark is on the other rig, feeding
the other laptop. Now that we have 2Tone as an alternative to MMTTY,
I've been running three decode windows per radio, and the most I can say
to describe the result is that they are about equally good, but on
almost every pass, one of the windows will copy something that one of
both of the others missed, not no consistent advantage I've been able to
discern to one over the other. The real advantage is that you have three
looks at the same signal, so you tend to ask for far fewer repeats, AND
I have changed to not repeating the exchange. I notice W0YK doing the same.

73, Jim K9YC

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Wes (N7WS)

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pinmicconnector

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have never tried JT65 of any flavor so I have
no basis for comparison and accept your conclusions.

Since I'm more of a DXer than a contester, I don't often use N1MM or any of the
other programs that support 2Tone. I use DXBase for general logging and AXETTY
(an MMTTY variant) on RTTY. AXETTY, by Joe, WA6AXE, speaks to DXBase. I asked
Joe whether he would port to 2Tone, but he's not interested. In my (very)
limited use of N1MM on RTTY I have used multiple decode windows. It appears to
me that 2Tone might be superior once it locks to the signal, but on quick
exchanges that doesn't seem to happen. Maybe something I'm doing wrong.
Nevertheless, not a big issue for my style of operating.

Although licensed in 1958 I was never on RTTY until I got the K3 about 4 1/2
years ago. The passing of my wife three years ago took a big hunk out of that
time. Even so, with very modest antennas I've now worked 210 countries on RTTY
and it's become my favorite mode. Maybe I should give JT65 a try, except as a
former "copy-by-ear" EMEer I think it's "cheating" on that mode :-)

73,

Wes N7WS

On 5/9/2014 2:00 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

> On 5/9/2014 1:26 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
>> Likewise, after your glowing recommendation of the US100, I bought one.
>
> Hi Wes,
>
> I did my testing with JT65HF on he HF bands, with the K3 output feeding both
> one Thinkpad internal sound card and the Tascam feeding a second Thinkpad. I
> did the same comparison between the Numark and internal, then between the
> Tascam and the Numark. My criteria was the number of good decodes for each 1
> minute pass. The Tascam and Numark boxes consistently decoded twice as many
> signals per 1 minute pass. The internal sound card rarely decoded a signal
> weaker than an indicated -12, whereas the Tascam and Numark regularly decoded
> additional signals down to -20, with occasional -22 decodes. I attribute that
> to better performance near the bottom of the A/D. When comparing the two USB
> boxes to each other, roughly once in ten passes, one would decode a signal
> that the other would not, but neither was better than the other -- on one pass
> the Tascam would miss a station that the Numark copied, then 5-10 minutes
> later the Numark would miss a station that the Tascam copied. This was quite
> extensive -- in addition to watching the nigher bands, I even let them run
> overnight on 160, then compare decodes the next morning.
>
> I found performance "a bit better" with RTTY, but did no equivalent testing to
> substantiate that, because I found the JT65 results far more quantifiable and
> repeatable. So for RTTY contesting, the Tascam is on one rig feeding one
> laptop, and the Numark is on the other rig, feeding the other laptop. Now that
> we have 2Tone as an alternative to MMTTY, I've been running three decode
> windows per radio, and the most I can say to describe the result is that they
> are about equally good, but on almost every pass, one of the windows will copy
> something that one of both of the others missed, not no consistent advantage
> I've been able to discern to one over the other. The real advantage is that
> you have three looks at the same signal, so you tend to ask for far fewer
> repeats, AND I have changed to not repeating the exchange. I notice W0YK doing
> the same.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC

Jim Brown-10

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pinmicconnector

On 5/9/2014 2:58 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
> Maybe I should give JT65 a try, except as a former "copy-by-ear" EMEer
> I think it's "cheating" on that mode :-)
>

JT65 has elements of watching paint dry, but like some of Joe Taylor's
other modes, it can be a thrill making otherwise impossible QSOs, like
MS using FSK441 and ionospheric scatter using ISCAT at ridiculous S/N.
I've recently begun using his newest, JT9, which uses only about 20Hz,
gets 100% copy at -24, and 50% copy at -26. Last week, I had a sked with
AB3CV on 160M around my sunset, and got successive decodes at -22, -23,
-24, -25, and -26. He wasn't decoding me, so we didn't make the Q.

A few summers back, K7BV was doing 6M grid trips on his way to and from
ham conventions to run the Yaesu booth, celebrating his recovery from a
VERY nasty cancer surgery. He was making lots of guys happy with very
rare grids, with QSOs in the 300 - 1500 mile range. I think I picked up
about ten. Mostly FSK441, some CW. He was running about 800W, setting
up with a Honda generator.

73, Jim K9YC

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W2RMS

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

By "my audio stuff" i mean a mic.
I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.
So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would go live.
So that's not an option for me.
I think its a lot easier to just hit a couple of buttons and switch to the front panel mic for digital work, isn't it?
And the rear mic won't go live either.

As far as audio interface goes, yes, i have an E-mu 0404 USB that i can use. But signalink works just fine. No drivers to install. And it has just enough controls.
I really don't see why i would need a studio quality sound card for PSK31.

__________________
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
[hidden email]

On May 9, 2014, at 10:02 AM, Jim Brown <[hidden email]> wrote:

> On 5/9/2014 5:36 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
>> I have the Signalink box that i'm using with my Yaesu 857D but i want to also try it with the K3.
>
> What is "my audio stuff" that you are currently using? If it's to/from an internal sound card, it's probably worth replacing with a decent USB audio interface. FWIW, the SignalLink box is highly overrated, thanks to advertising by those who sell it. And "help" info on the DX Engineering website to solve RFI issues strongly suggest that it has a Pin One Problem.
>
> There are several USB audio interfaces sold mostly to DJs and home studios that work very well for us. Several years ago, I bought and tested thoroughly two low cost units that work VERY well -- much better decoding of digital signals, especially weak ones. The simple Numark stereo interface costs about $35, the now discontinued Tascam US100 was $75, and was replaced by a US120 that costs more. They work equally well, and neither has a Pin One Problem.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Josh Fiden

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

You wouldn't use a Y-cable. Why not an input on your mixer? Then use whatever control is convenient in your pile of outboard gear to kill the mic when running digital modes.

Or pad the mic level back down & use K3 mic input.

Another topic is why use the outboard gear at all? Gate & limiter aren't necessary with levels set correctly. K3 already has compressor & EQ. I can't deny the rack of gear with blinking lights looks very cool....

73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my Technophone PC105T

> On May 9, 2014, at 4:40 PM, Slava Baytalskiy <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> By "my audio stuff" i mean a mic.
> I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.
> So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would go live.
> So that's not an option for me.
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Jim Brown-10

Re: Making a Signalink cable for the K3's 8-pin mic connector

In reply to this post by W2RMS

On 5/9/2014 4:40 PM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:
> By "my audio stuff" i mean a mic.
> I'm using a Shure SM58, into a mic preamp, into a gate/compressor/limiter/de-esser into an EQ into a mixer into the K3's line-in.

Hi Slava,

A de-esser works in the 6-8 kHz range, and you need it in a studio,
especially with mics like the SM58 that are sibilant, it's totally
useless for ham radio. If you want to use an SM58, you can run it
straight into the front panel mic input with a suitable adapter -- pin 2
of the XLR is hot, pin 3 and pin 1 get tied together and go to the
connector shell. The K3 has excellent EQ and compression built in, so
you've got a lot of stuff there that you don't need.

The SM58 is an singer's vocal mic, it has proximity effect, which adds a
lot of bass that must be equalized out. Pro mics are overkill for ham
radio (in terms of cost), but if you want to use one, go for one of the
EV variable-D mics -- RE10, 11, 15, 16, 18. No proximity effect, no
sibilance.

Another issue with trying to use a pro mic in ham radio is that ham mics
have presence peaks around 3 kHz to compensate for the rolloff of the
crystal filter, so you must add that with an equalizer. The TXEQ in the
K3 works VERY well for that. Before W6XU turned me onto the Yahama
CM500 headset, I was using an RE16 from my stash of recording mics, on
an AKG boom. Worked fine, I got great reports, but the CM500 is $60, and
sounds great too.

> So line-in is taken. I can't put a Y cable there because, correct me if i'm wrong, every time Signalink would key up - the mic would go live.
> So that's not an option for me.
> I think its a lot easier to just hit a couple of buttons and switch to the front panel mic for digital work, isn't it?
> And the rear mic won't go live either.
>
> As far as audio interface goes, yes, i have an E-mu 0404 USB that i can use. But signalink works just fine. No drivers to install. And it has just enough controls.
If you're happy with it, use the Line In. But remember that it has a Pin
One Problem, so you could run into RFI with it.

> I really don't see why i would need a studio quality sound card for PSK31.

See my exchange with N7WS about that in this thread -- a better sound
card can improve linearity at the bottom of the dynamic range. In fact,
you need a decent USB sound card a LOT more than all that outboard gear.
The 0404 is overkill, although nice if you want to feed a spectrum
display using NaP3. The Signal Link may be good enough -- the cheap
Numark and somewhat nicer Tascam certainly are.

I use the CM500 plugged into the rear panel mic and headphone jacks,
assign the "Headphones + Speaker" toggle to one of the PF keys. That
lets you use the K3's excellent audio processing, get rid of all that
outboard gear, and makes it very easy to switch from SSB to digital modes.

73, Jim K9YC
Retired audio professional
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