K1 L9 and L10 inductors

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K1 L9 and L10 inductors

Mark Petrovic
Hi.

I'm not sure how perfect the wound inductors need to be when
assembling the K1 filter board.

Here's mine:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2mjyTRatLHGNXZwVFZXc0FISFU

Do these look good enough?  I did L9 first, and I feel like L10 is
better.  Also, I did not notice at the time that L9 is wound
counterclockwise and L10 clockwise.  I don't think this matters, but
wanted to check.  I have no problem removing L9 and rewinding it if it
looks wonky - none of the turns overlap, but the turns heading into
the board are not super-taut.  I guess I could reheat them and give
them a pull.

What do you think?

Many thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

--
Mark
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Re: K1 L9 and L10 inductors

Don Wilhelm-4
Mark,

Those inductors should work fine.  The important thing is to count the
turns correctly.  Each time the wire passes through the center of the
core, that is one turn - in other words, a straight wire through the
core is 1 turn, a full wrap around the core is 2 turns.

The advantage of using the winding direction you had for L10 is that the
finished toroid will rest on the board like its outline. Electrically,
they can be wound either way.

Do check the stripping and tinning of L9.  The one lead that is in the
photo looks like it may be poorly stripped and tinned.  The indications
I see are that there is some red in the solder and there is a sunken
ring in the solder around the wire.  One of the most common failures in
kit building is PTTL - Poorly Tinned Toroid Leads.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/13/2016 1:54 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:

> Hi.
>
> I'm not sure how perfect the wound inductors need to be when
> assembling the K1 filter board.
>
> Here's mine:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2mjyTRatLHGNXZwVFZXc0FISFU
>
> Do these look good enough?  I did L9 first, and I feel like L10 is
> better.  Also, I did not notice at the time that L9 is wound
> counterclockwise and L10 clockwise.

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