K1 for sale

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K1 for sale

Yves Dussault
  I would like to sell my perfectly working K1. Like new; no scratch.
Has KFL1-4 (40-30-20-15 m), KNB1 noise blanker, KAT1 antenna tuner and KBT1
internal battery adapter. I would prefer to sell it to a fellow VE ham.
Asking 600,00 Canadian $.
Reason for selling: I want to build the K2!
My bank manager says I can't have both!



Yves Dussault VE2ATD
Laval, QC, Canada

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KPA100 problem

Steven Pituch
Hi all,
In my previous email I had described that I had my kpa100 working in the K2
enclosure but that it had died when I tried to install it in the EC2 case.
I was getting "info 080" and Lyle Johnson had suggested a problem with the
aux bus line.
I have refined search down to the 5 V line that supplies the max 1406.  When
I remove U1 on the kpa100 board I get a dead short at pin 1 of U1.  This
could mean that the 5 V regulator is bad but there are other components
connected to this line and any one of these components could be defective
(U3, U4, C23, C89, U6, etc).

I am now faced with developing a procedure to isolate the bad part.  I have
already inspected the board for shorts and do not see any.  The fact that
the kpa100 worked before leads me to believe that a component may have
shorted itself out.

I could destructively remove each component until the short disappeared but
then I would need to replace possibly a lot of parts.  The other option
would be to isolate each part one at a time by cutting traces.  Once the
part was deemed OK, I would have to patch the trace and go on to the next
part.  I would end up with a lot of patched traces.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve, W2MY

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RE: KPA100 problem

Don Wilhelm-3
Steve,

First remove the regulator which you suspect anyway.  If that does not
remove the short, then start removing one component at a time until you find
it.  A good de-soldering tool makes the task a lot easier, and if the price
of the potential parts replacement is high, perhaps it is time to invest in
a de-soldering tool - you won't be sorry, and you can remove parts
non-destructively in most cases.

If you do not have a de-soldering tool, the easiest is to cut traces - start
by cutting a trace so it divides the suspect  components into 2 equal
groups, find out which half the short remains in and divide that section
into 2 groups again - you don't have to make as many cuts, and you will find
it more quickly.

I don't know of an easier method unless you happen to spot a solder bridge
along the way.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
.  When

> I remove U1 on the kpa100 board I get a dead short at pin 1 of U1.  This
> could mean that the 5 V regulator is bad but there are other components
> connected to this line and any one of these components could be defective
> (U3, U4, C23, C89, U6, etc).
>
> I am now faced with developing a procedure to isolate the bad
> part.  I have
> already inspected the board for shorts and do not see any.  The fact that
> the kpa100 worked before leads me to believe that a component may have
> shorted itself out.
>
> I could destructively remove each component until the short
> disappeared but
> then I would need to replace possibly a lot of parts.  The other option
> would be to isolate each part one at a time by cutting traces.  Once the
> part was deemed OK, I would have to patch the trace and go on to the next
> part.  I would end up with a lot of patched traces.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Steve, W2MY
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.1/51 - Release Date: 7/18/2005
>
>
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