K1 power output
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I'm in the midst of completing my K1. Following the DC Voltage Table I
find that (with a 12.75 battery supply) RF-U9 has p2=6.2v, p3=6.2v, p6=6.2v, p7=12.4v. These seem in line with the lower supply. RF-Q6 has B=0.8v, C=0.1v, E=0.1v and RF-Q7 has B=0.0, C=12.45, E=0.0. The tables show Q6 collector should be up in the 12v range given my lower input voltage. Voltage on either lead of RFC5 is ~12v, as is the high end of R33. I'm not quite sure what I should read from this - I'm just a software guy. Could someone provide a bit of guidance? Thanks & 73, John -- John Griswold, KK1X [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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John,
Even a "software guy" may be able to read a schematic - at least to the extent that it shows 'which is connected to what'. Do check the schematic and you should see that the only thing between RFC5 and the collector of Q6 is T3. Check that toroid carefully for poorly tinned and soldered leads. If you can see any enamel on the solder side of the board, that is a sure sign that the lead was not well stripped and tinned. Removal and re-tinning is the only cure. 73, Don W3FPR John Griswold wrote: > I'm in the midst of completing my K1. Following the DC Voltage Table I > find that (with a 12.75 battery supply) RF-U9 has p2=6.2v, p3=6.2v, > p6=6.2v, p7=12.4v. These seem in line with the lower supply. RF-Q6 has > B=0.8v, C=0.1v, E=0.1v and RF-Q7 has B=0.0, C=12.45, E=0.0. > > The tables show Q6 collector should be up in the 12v range given my > lower input voltage. Voltage on either lead of RFC5 is ~12v, as is the > high end of R33. > > I'm not quite sure what I should read from this - I'm just a software > guy. Could someone provide a bit of guidance? > > Thanks & 73, > John > > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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This reminds me of a slick solution to the toroid stripping and tinning
problem I saw on another reflector (I think). Get an old soldering iron (I used a wood-burning iron) and drill a small blind hole in the tip to make a mini solder pot. When you are ready to strip the toroid leads, get the iron hot, melt some solder into the hole until it is full, then dip the leads into the hole, one at a time. After a few seconds of bubbling, the lead comes out professionally stripped and tinned. I wish I knew this trick when I was building my K2 many years ago. That was the only part about winding toroids I didn't like and felt unsure about. 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: Check that toroid carefully for poorly tinned and soldered leads. If you can see any enamel on the solder side of the board, that is a sure sign that the lead was not wellstripped and tinned. Removal and re-tinning is the only cure. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Hello,
I found the same solution, but a little different. I ruined a tip drilling a hole in it. SO the next time a just counter sunk a little on the flat side and took a hacksaw blade and made a groove from one side to the other. I clamped the handle of the soldering iron in the panvise and with the hole filled with solder, I moved the wire back and forth in the groove through the solder blob until the enamel came off. It worked slick. I did have to add more solder from time to tome to get the flux helping the wetting of the wire. To each his own, hi. Mel, K6KBE --- On Wed, 11/11/09, John R. Lonigro <[hidden email]> wrote: From: John R. Lonigro <[hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning To: [hidden email] Cc: [hidden email] Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 3:52 AM This reminds me of a slick solution to the toroid stripping and tinning problem I saw on another reflector (I think). Get an old soldering iron (I used a wood-burning iron) and drill a small blind hole in the tip to make a mini solder pot. When you are ready to strip the toroid leads, get the iron hot, melt some solder into the hole until it is full, then dip the leads into the hole, one at a time. After a few seconds of bubbling, the lead comes out professionally stripped and tinned. I wish I knew this trick when I was building my K2 many years ago. That was the only part about winding toroids I didn't like and felt unsure about. 73's, John AA0VE Don Wilhelm wrote: Check that toroid carefully for poorly tinned and soldered leads. If you can see any enamel on the solder side of the board, that is a sure sign that the lead was not wellstripped and tinned. Removal and re-tinning is the only cure. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Mel
Hi Mel,
Filing, cutting or otherwise breeching the plating on an iron's tip will hasten failure of the tip due to accelerated oxidation of the core metal. But, yours is a workable suggestion if you have a replacement tip. (:-) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Sorry, I was following the thread using a old wood burning iron. Those tips were pure screw on copper. No plating. You are right on any of the modern tip/irons.
Mel --- On Wed, 11/11/09, Ken Kopp <[hidden email]> wrote: From: Ken Kopp <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning To: Cc: [hidden email] Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 11:14 AM Hi Mel, Filing, cutting or otherwise breeching the plating on an iron's tip will hasten failure of the tip due to accelerated oxidation of the core metal. But, yours is a workable suggestion if you have a replacement tip. (:-) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Mel,
I had all I could do to keep my mouth shut as I understood you post completely. If you didn't own one of those old irons, it would not be understood so easily. I did! 73, Bill K9YEQ K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods ATS-3B -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mel Farrer Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 4:48 PM To: Ken Kopp Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning Sorry, I was following the thread using a old wood burning iron. Those tips were pure screw on copper. No plating. You are right on any of the modern tip/irons. Mel --- On Wed, 11/11/09, Ken Kopp <[hidden email]> wrote: From: Ken Kopp <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Toroid stripping/tinning To: Cc: [hidden email] Date: Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 11:14 AM Hi Mel, Filing, cutting or otherwise breeching the plating on an iron's tip will hasten failure of the tip due to accelerated oxidation of the core metal. But, yours is a workable suggestion if you have a replacement tip. (:-) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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