K1 (still) a classic!

[Rhulett]

I got K1-4 s/n 2258 (40, 30, 20, 15) out of the drawer yesterday, hadn't used it in about a year.  With wire antenna on 30M, QSO with AL at 1W.  Then on 15M, QSO with FL at 5, 1, and 0.1W (!).  Then ragchew with op in CA using 5W.  His yagi helped no doubt.

Had forgotten what a fun, capable radio the K1 is, too bad the 4-band filters are no longer available.

72 Curt KB5JO
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[Jim Rodenkirch]

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[Michael Byrd]

I have to agree. I have K1 #583. This is my favorite kit of all time. Radio works perfectly, just so much fun.

Mike, AC4UR

http://sunbyrdpress.blogspot.com
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[lstavenhagen]

Now all you have to do is build a K2 hi hi... BTW, do we know the reason the 4 band module was discontinued on the K1? That was the only reason I didn't get one and went with another K2 in my current build. 2 bands was just slightly too few for me...

73,
LS
W5QD

[SteveL]

I think I recall reading here something about Elecraft could no longer obtain a key part for the 4 band board - a temperature stable trimmer cap perhaps?
Steve
aa8af

> On Apr 3, 2016, at 9:15 PM, lstavenhagen <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Now all you have to do is build a K2 hi hi... BTW, do we know the reason the
> 4 band module was discontinued on the K1? That was the only reason I didn't
> get one and went with another K2 in my current build. 2 bands was just
> slightly too few for me...
>
> 73,
> LS
> W5QD

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[Rhulett]

>Now all you have to do is build a K2 hi hi...

Already did, s/n 6424.  Added KSB2, KPA100.  Enjoy using it too :-)

I also built K-FL2 for 80/17 n 12/10.  Rarely used but ready if needed.  I
recall the parts at issue were the trimmer caps.

72, Curt KB5JO


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[lstavenhagen]

Interesting... the bandpass filter trimmers in my latest K2 have changed, IMO, for the slightly worse in terms of quality. My first K2 (#6882 ) has nice well made looking trimmer caps in it, but 4 of the ones in the new kit are these barrel shaped ones that are kind of blah in terms of quality, and a little dodgier to get a screwdriver into.

So maybe there are supply issues already affecting the K2 also? But that's one of the reasons I went ahead and got another kit. I like my first K2 so much I wanted to build another one. I thought about a K1 while making the decision but without the 4-band model being available, went ahead with another K2.

I'm at the grounding crystal cans step right now in fact and taking a break. This is the ugliest part of the build and fortunately it's downhill after this part. Winding toroids is no problem compared to this lol...

73,
LS
W5QD

[Don Wilhelm-4]

LS,

There is a "secret" to soldering the grounding wires to the base of the
crystals.
First, use a screwdriver to form the wires up against the crystal bodies.
Then run your soldering temperature up to 800 degF.
Hold the flat of the iron against the crystal body on one side of the
ground wire.  Put a bit of solder under the iron tip to help conduct heat.
Now hold the end of your solder against the crystal can, but a small bit
away from the iron and the ground wire.
When the solder melts on the crystal can, move the end of the solder
over to the wire to give a little more flux to the connection.
You should see a nice smooth but thin edge to the solder on the crystal
can.  Job done, remove the iron.

I prefer to tilt the board so the connection to be made is more
horizontal than vertical.  I don't know if gravity helps, but it
produces a good ground on the crystal cans for me.

It is easier for me than stripping and tinning toroid leads.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2016 9:23 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:

> I'm at the grounding crystal cans step right now in fact and taking a break.
> This is the ugliest part of the build and fortunately it's downhill after
> this part. Winding toroids is no problem compared to this lol...
>
> 73,
> LS
> W5QD
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-still-a-classic-tp7615852p7615932.html
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

LS,

Yes, the demise of available ceramic trimmers (original) and later the
demise of the wide range blue trimmers (1 to 40pF) used in both the K1 4
band board and the K2 bandpass filters (and wattmeters) has cause quite
a stir for Elecraft.  The best trimmers now available have been supplied
with your K2 kit, and yes they are a bit harder to adjust then those
with a standard screwdriver slot, but a screwdriver can still be used to
adjust them.  Use a blade width that is just a bit more narrow than the
diameter of the hole.

Similar capacitors have been used in the K60XV option and the KX1 for a
long time now - except those are bottom adjust where the new ones for
the K2 are top adjust.  Read the errata to determine which color
trimmers go where.

Never-the-less, those are good quality trimmer capacitors that will hold
their adjustment over a long period of time.  The experience with
similar trimmers used in the K60XV option and the KX1 indicate that
those trimmers are good ones to use.
Notice that they do have a flat side, so orient them correctly with the
flat side indicated by the silkscreen or the parts placement diagram.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/4/2016 9:23 PM, lstavenhagen wrote:
> Interesting... the bandpass filter trimmers in my latest K2 have changed,
> IMO, for the slightly worse in terms of quality. My first K2 (#6882 ) has
> nice well made looking trimmer caps in it, but 4 of the ones in the new kit
> are these barrel shaped ones that are kind of blah in terms of quality, and
> a little dodgier to get a screwdriver into.
>
> So maybe there are supply issues already affecting the K2 also?

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[lstavenhagen]

Ok thanks for the info, Don. I've actually been having success with a slightly different method for the ones on the tops of the cans. What I do now is form the lead and put it in place through the grounding hole (a spare anti-stat foam pad under the RF board for them to stick into helps). Then, with a small blob of solder on the iron, I hold the lead in place on top of the can with the right finger and make a quick-n-crappy solder connection at the grounding hole. This freezes the lead in place. Then it's a simple matter to solder it onto the can in 2 secs or less because it's all held firmly in place for me. Then I go under the board and repair the actual ground connection at the hole.

I did the reference osc., BFO and the 2 filter cans this way earlier this eve and it worked great. I'm going to try a variant of that on X7-11 tomorrow.

On my first K2 some years ago I discovered the biggest problem is holding the #$^@#$ little things in place while you solder them. I don't know how I did them on my first K2, but it's going a lot better on this one.....

73,
LS
W5QD

[lstavenhagen]

Ah, ok, thanks. I'll not worry about it then. I did locate a flat blade jewelers screwdriver in my parts box that fits and rotates them, so I think I'll be OK. Support said to be sure to obey the orientation with the flat side, which I'll certainly do.

Sure hope this doesn't deep six the kit ever, or at least for a long time. I hope 2 copies of the K2 last me long enough lol.

73,
LS
W5QD