K1

[KG7IRP]

Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
Any words of wisdom are welcome.
 
73, John. KG7IRP
 
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[Gil G.]

On Mon, 2014-03-24 at 19:42 +0000, [hidden email] wrote:
> Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
> This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
> to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
> Any words of wisdom are welcome.
>  
> 73, John. KG7IRP

Make sure you order it with the backlight option!

Gil.

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[Joe K2UF]

Hi John,

Take your time,  enjoy the building experience you will appreciate your
patience when you have your first QSO.

Maybe see you in the November CW sweepstakes.

Good luck

73  Joe  K2UF

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Gil G.
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 4:20 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1

On Mon, 2014-03-24 at 19:42 +0000, [hidden email] wrote:
> Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
> This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
> to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
> Any words of wisdom are welcome.
>  
> 73, John. KG7IRP

Make sure you order it with the backlight option!

Gil.

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

John,

Pay attention to the soldering.  If you are not 'solder skilled', check
out the soldering tutorial at the Elecraft website.
Do a good job of stripping and tinning the leads of the toroids. The
'solder blob' method works best IMHO.
Before you begin, take note of any errata sheets and mark up your manual
with the changes.
Follow the instructions in the order printed.  If you do not understand
any step, take a break and ask here on the reflector - there are many
here who can answer your questions quickly.
Work carefully and take your time, you will be rewarded with a great
transceiver.

The usual cautions about 'do not work when you are tired or frustrated'
apply.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/24/2014 3:42 PM, [hidden email] wrote:
> Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
> This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
> to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
> Any words of wisdom are welcome.
>    
>

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[JohnE]

Hello John.
I've built a several Elecraft kits -

Don't try to build it without a temperature-controlled solder station.
I use an Aoyue 937 (No connection to them - just a satisfied customer).
But there are plenty others.

Also make sure you use nice solder - like .032 60/40 solder.

A digital multimeter would be handy too.  Nothing too fancy, but there's
a lot of places it will help out.  For me, I have a hard time reading the
color bands on resistors. So - I double check values before installing
resistors.

Good luck - its lots of fun building kits.


On 03/24/2014 02:42 PM, [hidden email] wrote:

> Howdy, I new to amateur radio. Just received a K1 kit to build.
> This is my first kit. After I get it built and get going I plan
> to only operate with CW on 15 & 40 meters.
> Any words of wisdom are welcome.
>    
> 73, John. KG7IRP
>    
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

A 37/63 alloy solder is easier to work with than 60/40 because it has a
lower melting point, and being a eutectic alloy, it has no plastic state
- it goes right from a liquid to a solid, therefore no cold solder
joints resulting from crystallization from movement of the connection
during the plastic phase of 60/40.

A "nice" solder IMHO is one with a Mildly Reactive Flux.  It does not
leave a mess of solder resin like Highly Reactive Flux will do - save
the highly reactive stuff for wires that have some corrosion on them.

As far as the solder diameter, a smaller diameter solder makes it easier
to control the amount of solder applied.  I routinely work with .020
diameter for thru-hole construction, .015 for SMD work.

Kester 285 is one example of a 37/63 alloy with mildly reactive flux.  
Kester 44 is OK, but its highly reactive flux will leave a mess -- do
*not* clean the boards, you may end up with more problems than messy
flux.  The flux residue if not conductive and will do no harm.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/24/2014 5:13 PM, JohnE wrote:
> Also make sure you use nice solder - like .032 60/40 solder.
>

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