Elecraft

K1 with internal battery

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Tom Althoff

K1 with internal battery

Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1 internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?

I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like to access the battery compartment.

Thanks!

Tom K2TA
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Mike Morrow-3

Re: K1 with internal battery

Tom asked:

> Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
> internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
>
> I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
> to access the battery compartment.

The "knobs" you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws that hold the K1 top cover on at the rear. The KBT1 screws have a larger knurled head that allows them to be loosened or tightened using only finger force. The replacement top cover that comes with the KBT1 is held in place in the front by a lip, so only the two screws at the rear are required.

I removed my KBT1 after having it in place for about 18 months. I didn't like the looks of the KBT1 top cover and the sound of the micro speaker attached to it, compared to the original cover and speaker. More importantly, I don't like a source of potential chemical leakage from batteries inside the K1's case. There is no physical barrier around the KBT1 AA-cell pack that will retain leakage from a cell. I much prefer to use a small external 10-AA cell pack rather than the 8-AA cell pack of the KBT1.

The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the compromises associated with having it installed need only be suffered when absolutely needed. The KBT1 *should* attach via a cable with a polarized two-pin female connector to a male connector *anchored* on the RF board. This would allow easy removal at any time. The current design has the connections made by soldered connections, and even if you jury-rig in a connector in the power leads, one side of the connector will then be floating around creating potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Tom Althoff

Re: K1 with internal battery

Thanks Mike and Paul!

I was looking at the photo on the Elecraft website and saw there where still
provision for four 3D screws to hold the cover on and imagined a smaller
cover directly over the batteries that had two knurled screws holding it in
place.

The verbal description of the two knobs at the back and the top slid under
the lip of the front panel is exactly what I was looking for.

>From what I've seen on the web the poor KBT-1 is the least popular Elecraft
accessory you can own.

But, like the AGC mod, I need to see for myself. So it will go into my
K1...but for how long? 8-)

Tom K2TA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Morrow" <[hidden email]>
To: "Tom Althoff" <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with internal battery

> Tom asked:
>
> > Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
> > internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
> >
> > I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
> > to access the battery compartment.
>
> The "knobs" you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws
that hold the K1 top cover on at the rear. The KBT1 screws have a larger
knurled head that allows them to be loosened or tightened using only finger
force. The replacement top cover that comes with the KBT1 is held in place
in the front by a lip, so only the two screws at the rear are required.
>
> I removed my KBT1 after having it in place for about 18 months. I didn't
like the looks of the KBT1 top cover and the sound of the micro speaker
attached to it, compared to the original cover and speaker. More
importantly, I don't like a source of potential chemical leakage from
batteries inside the K1's case. There is no physical barrier around the
KBT1 AA-cell pack that will retain leakage from a cell. I much prefer to
use a small external 10-AA cell pack rather than the 8-AA cell pack of the
KBT1.
>
> The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the compromises
associated with having it installed need only be suffered when absolutely
needed. The KBT1 *should* attach via a cable with a polarized two-pin
female connector to a male connector *anchored* on the RF board. This would
allow easy removal at any time. The current design has the connections made
by soldered connections, and even if you jury-rig in a connector in the
power leads, one side of the connector will then be floating around creating
potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F

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Stephanie Maks

Re: K1 with internal battery

In reply to this post by Mike Morrow-3

>
> The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the
> compromises associated with having it installed need only be
> suffered when absolutely needed. The KBT1 *should* attach via a
> cable with a polarized two-pin female connector to a male connector
> *anchored* on the RF board. This would allow easy removal at any
> time. The current design has the connections made by soldered
> connections, and even if you jury-rig in a connector in the power
> leads, one side of the connector will then be floating ar
> ound creating potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F

I got the KBT1 kit but haven't really used it yet. I have made some
modifications though that will make using it much easier, including
adding my own jack on the RF board so that I can add / remove the
entire battery kit without soldering.

Where the two solder points are to wire in the auxiliary 12 volts,
the + point is directly under the switch, but the - point was next to
the switch. I got a 3-pin female socket, similar to the one you get
with the ATU - it's a 0.1" spacing 3 conductor socket. Anyhow I
drilled a hole in the RF board, and mounted the 3-pin socket there.
The two outside pins are both ground, and the centre one is for +12
volts. (not quite as good as a polarized plug, but I just used the
parts I had laying around). I used the special diode they supplied
with the KBT1 to go from the centre pin of my 3-pin connector, to the
power switch - rather than having the diode being part of the KBT1
assembly itself, this means the diode is right on the RF board, on
the bottom. Finally, I used some hot-melt glue on the top side to
provide additional strength to the 3-pin socket.

For the wiring from the KBT1 bracket I used the supplied red and
black wiring, and just terminated it on a 3-pin header.

The last thing I changed was rather than using discrete AA sized
rechargables, I had a battery pack assembled. This allowed me to use
the larger diameter AA type cells. Without the plastic battery
holder there is more room for batteries. So I have a 9.6v 2000 mAh
battery pack made up. On its terminals I added a '9-volt' style snap
connector, and to the KBT1 switch I put another '9-volt' style snap
connector. This lets me easily pull the battery pack out and drop it
into my Maha quick charger, without removing the KBT1 bracket etc.
I still have the 8-AA plastic holder of course, and with another 9-
volt style snap connector on that, I can just as easily drop that in
and load it with off the shelf AAs if needed.

In the meantime, I also used two small strips of brass to add a
little 'lip' to the stock K1 top cover, because I like the ease of
opening it with just the two knurled thumbscrews at the back.

So now the whole process of switching from the 'normal' K1 to the
battery powered unit takes me under a minute - just unscrew the
thumbscrews, remove the stock lid and speaker, drop in the KBT1
bracket, plug in the speaker, plug in the power cable, and put on the
KBT1 lid and screw it down. No tools required at all.

73 de
Stephanie
va3uxb

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Tom Althoff

Re: K1 with internal battery

WOW! Great job Steph!

I happen to have a 3-pin socket handy here. I think add the diode to the
RF board and follow your example on the stock K2 cover too.

Plus the 9-volt snap connector is fast. Also allows 1 or 2 quick contacts
with a 9 volt transistor radio battery in a real emergency. Neat idea!

Tom K2TA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephanie Maks" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with internal battery

> >
> > The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the
> > compromises associated with having it installed need only be
> > suffered when absolutely needed. The KBT1 *should* attach via a
> > cable with a polarized two-pin female connector to a male connector
> > *anchored* on the RF board. This would allow easy removal at any
> > time. The current design has the connections made by soldered
> > connections, and even if you jury-rig in a connector in the power
> > leads, one side of the connector will then be floating ar
> > ound creating potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.
> >
> > 73,
> > Mike / KK5F
>
> I got the KBT1 kit but haven't really used it yet. I have made some
> modifications though that will make using it much easier, including
> adding my own jack on the RF board so that I can add / remove the
> entire battery kit without soldering.
>
> Where the two solder points are to wire in the auxiliary 12 volts,
> the + point is directly under the switch, but the - point was next to
> the switch. I got a 3-pin female socket, similar to the one you get
> with the ATU - it's a 0.1" spacing 3 conductor socket. Anyhow I
> drilled a hole in the RF board, and mounted the 3-pin socket there.
> The two outside pins are both ground, and the centre one is for +12
> volts. (not quite as good as a polarized plug, but I just used the
> parts I had laying around). I used the special diode they supplied
> with the KBT1 to go from the centre pin of my 3-pin connector, to the
> power switch - rather than having the diode being part of the KBT1
> assembly itself, this means the diode is right on the RF board, on
> the bottom. Finally, I used some hot-melt glue on the top side to
> provide additional strength to the 3-pin socket.
>
> For the wiring from the KBT1 bracket I used the supplied red and
> black wiring, and just terminated it on a 3-pin header.
>
> The last thing I changed was rather than using discrete AA sized
> rechargables, I had a battery pack assembled. This allowed me to use
> the larger diameter AA type cells. Without the plastic battery
> holder there is more room for batteries. So I have a 9.6v 2000 mAh
> battery pack made up. On its terminals I added a '9-volt' style snap
> connector, and to the KBT1 switch I put another '9-volt' style snap
> connector. This lets me easily pull the battery pack out and drop it
> into my Maha quick charger, without removing the KBT1 bracket etc.
> I still have the 8-AA plastic holder of course, and with another 9-
> volt style snap connector on that, I can just as easily drop that in
> and load it with off the shelf AAs if needed.
>
> In the meantime, I also used two small strips of brass to add a
> little 'lip' to the stock K1 top cover, because I like the ease of
> opening it with just the two knurled thumbscrews at the back.
>
> So now the whole process of switching from the 'normal' K1 to the
> battery powered unit takes me under a minute - just unscrew the
> thumbscrews, remove the stock lid and speaker, drop in the KBT1
> bracket, plug in the speaker, plug in the power cable, and put on the
> KBT1 lid and screw it down. No tools required at all.
>
> 73 de
> Stephanie
> va3uxb
>
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> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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>
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> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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Sandy W5TVW

Re: K1 with internal battery

In reply to this post by Mike Morrow-3

I originally ordered my K1 with the internal battery accessory. Didn't like the little speaker at
all compared to the larger one. Also the cells were a pain in the butt
to install and remove for charging.
I never thought about leakage, but that makes a lot of sense!

I use a 10 cell holder with 2 A/H Ni MH batteries portable. Also have
a cheapie $15 gellcell battery pack I bought from Sportsman's Guide
that is super neat. The two 6 volt batteries in series are around 4 A/H
as I recall. Pack has a nice shoulder strap, internal 10 amp fuse
(the 5 X 20mm European type) in a holder. I took loose the
"cigar lighter" receptical and installed a two wire Anderson "Powerpole"
connector on the lead. Everything I have now That works on a 12-15
volt DC supply has the "Powerpole" connectors on them. Very convienant.

73,

Sandy W5TVW

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Morrow" <[hidden email]>
To: "Tom Althoff" <[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 with internal battery

| Tom asked:
|
| > Does anyone have a link to a photo of a K1 with the KBT-1
| > internal battery installed with the K1's cover in place?
| >
| > I cannot find any photo's of what the two knobs look like
| > to access the battery compartment.
|
| The "knobs" you speak of are just replacements for the two small screws that hold the K1 top cover
on at the rear. The KBT1 screws have a larger knurled head that allows them to be loosened or
tightened using only finger force. The replacement top cover that comes with the KBT1 is held in
place in the front by a lip, so only the two screws at the rear are required.
|
| I removed my KBT1 after having it in place for about 18 months. I didn't like the looks of the
KBT1 top cover and the sound of the micro speaker attached to it, compared to the original cover and
speaker. More importantly, I don't like a source of potential chemical leakage from batteries
inside the K1's case. There is no physical barrier around the KBT1 AA-cell pack that will retain
leakage from a cell. I much prefer to use a small external 10-AA cell pack rather than the 8-AA
cell pack of the KBT1.
|
| The KBT1 should have been made easily removable so that the compromises associated with having it
installed need only be suffered when absolutely needed. The KBT1 *should* attach via a cable with a
polarized two-pin female connector to a male connector *anchored* on the RF board. This would allow
easy removal at any time. The current design has the connections made by soldered connections, and
even if you jury-rig in a connector in the power leads, one side of the connector will then be
floating around creating potential shorts when the KBT1 is removed.
|
| 73,
| Mike / KK5F
| _______________________________________________
| Elecraft mailing list
| Post to: [hidden email]
| You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
| Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
| http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
|
| Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
| Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
|
|
|
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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|
|

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Sandy W5TVW

Re: K1 with internal battery

In reply to this post by Mike Morrow-3