K2 #4768 is alive

[Chris-488]

K2 #4768 lives!

Finished the Tx section Saturday night. Only problem was a faulty relay
(K8) which was refusing to change over so 80m was deaf and had 0 power
output. Got around the problem by substituting one from my K160Rx.
Tricky things to get out from those plated through holes when you can
only get at one side of the board!

Built the SSB option last night. Sounds good, and the NB option removes
the QRM from the sodium vapour streetlights nicely. The one in front of
my house is very noisy during its warm up, not so bad when it is hot.

Checked the filter bfo settings at lunch time, had a tune around 10m and
heard M5AFD calling CQ, called him back and logged my first K2 contact,
10W USB.

I'll arrange a local sked later in the week to fine tune the TX audio
settings.

Now for the PA, DSP and ATU options.

BTW -  you can get 20W out of a K2 if you forget to remove C167 from the
RF board during the SSB option installation carrier balance operation. ;-)


73 Chris VP8BKF

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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Folks,

The except below brings up an important point that has not been discussed in
a while and may need to be repeated occasionally - REMOVING COMPONENTS -
especially from thru-plated hole PC boards.  As tempting as it is to try to
remove a component intact, don't try it unless you have good de-soldering
equipment. Your primary goal is to protect and preserve the circuit board -
you have put a lot of work into it, and the total value of the good
components already installed is quite high - if you hurt the board badly,
you may have to start over from scratch again.

The best way to remove components is to destroy the component - if it is
already dead, you will not kill it any more!  Clip its leads off, cut it
apart slowly with your diagonal cutters (not the flush trimmers - most are
too flimsy), or crush its little body with big pliers - any method that will
not destroy the board is acceptable.

After you complete your mini-demolition project, the pins can be removed
individually and the holes can be cleaned with de-soldering braid, inserting
a large stainless steel needle into the molten solder, or a variety of other
methods.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: [Elecraft] K2 #4768 is alive
>
>
> K2 #4768 lives!
>
> Finished the Tx section Saturday night. Only problem was a faulty relay
> (K8) which was refusing to change over so 80m was deaf and had 0 power
> output. Got around the problem by substituting one from my K160Rx.
> Tricky things to get out from those plated through holes when you can
> only get at one side of the board!
>
>

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[Chris-488]

Yep - I was relying on Elecraft not asking for the faulty relay back!!
(in one piece!) Even getting the pliers on K8 alongside the 160Rx socket
and with an L on each side isn't easy.

Chris VP8BKF

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:

>Folks,
>
>The except below brings up an important point that has not been discussed in
>a while and may need to be repeated occasionally - REMOVING COMPONENTS -
>especially from thru-plated hole PC boards.  As tempting as it is to try to
>remove a component intact, don't try it unless you have good de-soldering
>equipment. Your primary goal is to protect and preserve the circuit board -
>you have put a lot of work into it, and the total value of the good
>components already installed is quite high - if you hurt the board badly,
>you may have to start over from scratch again.
>
>The best way to remove components is to destroy the component - if it is
>already dead, you will not kill it any more!  Clip its leads off, cut it
>apart slowly with your diagonal cutters (not the flush trimmers - most are
>too flimsy), or crush its little body with big pliers - any method that will
>not destroy the board is acceptable.
>
>After you complete your mini-demolition project, the pins can be removed
>individually and the holes can be cleaned with de-soldering braid, inserting
>a large stainless steel needle into the molten solder, or a variety of other
>methods.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>  
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>Subject: [Elecraft] K2 #4768 is alive
>>
>>
>>K2 #4768 lives!
>>
>>Finished the Tx section Saturday night. Only problem was a faulty relay
>>(K8) which was refusing to change over so 80m was deaf and had 0 power
>>output. Got around the problem by substituting one from my K160Rx.
>>Tricky things to get out from those plated through holes when you can
>>only get at one side of the board!
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Post to: [hidden email]
>You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
>
>
>  
>

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[Andrew Moore-4]

> The best way to remove components is to destroy the component

I once had to remove a SIP resister from a K2 and found that by first
soldering a discarded component lead right along all pins (8 or 10, I
think), the heat was transferred to the entire row of pins at once,
which made removal much easier than one pin at a time (I was planning to
re-use the SIP).  



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