Last night I put a check mark next to the step that said "Attach the
self-adhesive serial number label to the rear panel...". With that, my rig is complete. Finished. Done. Until the next time I open it up to mod or adjust it ;-) I built a bare-bones K2 using the Rework Eliminators and pre-wound inductors. For the benefit of the others on-list who are wondering about building a K2, here are some of the lessons I learned with this, my first "real" kit. 1. Follow the directions very carefully. Slow down, read them, read them again. Do just what they say, not what you *think* they are saying. This one step will avoid much hassle. 2. Sort the parts, do the inventory. I did not (no space) and was OK but I did do it for the caps on the RF board. It helped a lot. I found a couple missing but was able to backfill and keep going. 3. Check your solder joints. The only problems I had were due to bad solder joints. S-meter worked fine at first, then didn't work. I reflowed several joints and it's working fine now. 4. Visually inspect the board. I thought this was a STUPID WASTE OF TIME, especially with how careful I had been. But I did it anyway. Guess what - I found 2 unsoldered pins and several that now looked poorly soldered. I spent probably 30 minutes checking the board and resoldering. My rig sailed through the final alignment steps. Everything worked right the first time and is performing within specs. RX performance is cleaner than my IC-735. Current draw is substantially less. The basic K2 is indeed a very sweet performing rig. Pre-wound Inductors: Mine were well wound, perfectly sorted and simply beautiful. I am very glad I went this route. Well worth the price. I'll be going this route with any options I add to my rig. Rework Eliminators. I had no problems at all once I updated the installation procedures to include the extra steps. The amount of extra work during the K2 build was trivial. Not having to tear it apart to install options is a great benefit. Not having to do any rework when I do options is of great value to me. If I were to do it all again, I'd go this way in a heartbeat. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - - K1 1286 - _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Congrats, from the guy who isn't sure when he is going to be able to buy
his. Hopefully by the end of the summer... Makes me feel better to see so many happy endings. Hopefully I won't bring the curve down too far. :) On Mon, 2006-04-10 at 09:06 -0400, Darwin, Keith wrote: > Last night I put a check mark next to the step that said "Attach the > self-adhesive serial number label to the rear panel...". With that, my > rig is complete. Finished. Done. Until the next time I open it up to > mod or adjust it ;-) > > I built a bare-bones K2 using the Rework Eliminators and pre-wound > inductors. For the benefit of the others on-list who are wondering > about building a K2, here are some of the lessons I learned with this, > my first "real" kit. > > 1. Follow the directions very carefully. Slow down, read them, read > them again. Do just what they say, not what you *think* they are > saying. This one step will avoid much hassle. > > 2. Sort the parts, do the inventory. I did not (no space) and was OK > but I did do it for the caps on the RF board. It helped a lot. I found > a couple missing but was able to backfill and keep going. > > 3. Check your solder joints. The only problems I had were due to bad > solder joints. S-meter worked fine at first, then didn't work. I > reflowed several joints and it's working fine now. > > 4. Visually inspect the board. I thought this was a STUPID WASTE OF > TIME, especially with how careful I had been. But I did it anyway. > Guess what - I found 2 unsoldered pins and several that now looked > poorly soldered. I spent probably 30 minutes checking the board and > resoldering. > > My rig sailed through the final alignment steps. Everything worked > right the first time and is performing within specs. RX performance is > cleaner than my IC-735. Current draw is substantially less. The basic > K2 is indeed a very sweet performing rig. > > > > Pre-wound Inductors: > > Mine were well wound, perfectly sorted and simply beautiful. I am very > glad I went this route. Well worth the price. I'll be going this route > with any options I add to my rig. > > > > Rework Eliminators. > > I had no problems at all once I updated the installation procedures to > include the extra steps. The amount of extra work during the K2 build > was trivial. Not having to tear it apart to install options is a great > benefit. Not having to do any rework when I do options is of great > value to me. If I were to do it all again, I'd go this way in a > heartbeat. > > - Keith KD1E - > - K2 5411 - > - K1 1286 - > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com 73, Walt KE7GWZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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