K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
 
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The kit arrived yesterday. SN 5411. I'm still waiting for my magnifying lamp to arrive. Then soldering begins.
With my WTCPT station, I accidently left it on for about a week. I turned it off and put in a new tip (PTH). When I assembled my mini-module, I found I had to dwell a long time (5-10 seconds) before I could get solder to melt. In a few cases I felt the board getting warm. I changed tips to my original tip (after cleaning it up) and dwell times dropped to about 3 seconds. So what tip should I be using? Also which DMM should I buy? Is there one out there that is considered a best buy or a great unit at a good price (the cheaper the better)?? - Keith KD1E - - K1 12xx - - K2 5411 (pile'o'parts) - _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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Hi
Look one bottom of the tip for a number. If it is 7 then the tip is a 700 degree f tip if it is a 6 then you have a 600 degree tip. The 600 degree tips are too cold for most work with standard solder. You should use a 700 degree tip. I prefer a PTA7 tip. For meters I have several Fluke meters. They are not cheap but they are very good and measure much faster and are more rugged than the cheap meters. I have an 8050A that is over 25 years old and with the exception of a couple sets of ni-cad batteries it has never needed any repair or calibration. You may be able to find a used Fluke on Ebay at a low price. Other than that there are many cheap meters out there. Radio shack, Circuit Specialists Telequipment all have inexpensive made in China meters that will work and are almost throw away. Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darwin, Keith" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:22 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question. The kit arrived yesterday. SN 5411. I'm still waiting for my magnifying lamp to arrive. Then soldering begins. With my WTCPT station, I accidently left it on for about a week. I turned it off and put in a new tip (PTH). When I assembled my mini-module, I found I had to dwell a long time (5-10 seconds) before I could get solder to melt. In a few cases I felt the board getting warm. I changed tips to my original tip (after cleaning it up) and dwell times dropped to about 3 seconds. So what tip should I be using? Also which DMM should I buy? Is there one out there that is considered a best buy or a great unit at a good price (the cheaper the better)?? - Keith KD1E - - K1 12xx - - K2 5411 (pile'o'parts) - _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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I have 3 or 4 tips, all are 700 degree ("7") versions. The one that came with the station was the PTA7 and it seems just a bit big. The PTH7 I have seems too small. Apparently the PTK7 is in between these and maybe is the one I should have gotten...
My current meter is a RS rig. It was about $25 on sale 10 yrs ago IIRC. Not Auto-ranging and the test leads are stiff. Still, it works and I'm not wanting to spend over $50 on another to replace it. I'd like auto ranging and cap measurement. Other than that I'm OK with what I have. Thanks! - Keith KD1E - ________________________________ From: Don Brown [mailto:[hidden email]] Sent: Fri 3/10/2006 1:39 PM To: [hidden email]; Darwin, Keith Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question. Hi Look one bottom of the tip for a number. If it is 7 then the tip is a 700 degree f tip if it is a 6 then you have a 600 degree tip. The 600 degree tips are too cold for most work with standard solder. You should use a 700 degree tip. I prefer a PTA7 tip. For meters I have several Fluke meters. They are not cheap but they are very good and measure much faster and are more rugged than the cheap meters. I have an 8050A that is over 25 years old and with the exception of a couple sets of ni-cad batteries it has never needed any repair or calibration. You may be able to find a used Fluke on Ebay at a low price. Other than that there are many cheap meters out there. Radio shack, Circuit Specialists Telequipment all have inexpensive made in China meters that will work and are almost throw away. Don Brown KD5NDB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darwin, Keith" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 11:22 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question. The kit arrived yesterday. SN 5411. I'm still waiting for my magnifying lamp to arrive. Then soldering begins. With my WTCPT station, I accidently left it on for about a week. I turned it off and put in a new tip (PTH). When I assembled my mini-module, I found I had to dwell a long time (5-10 seconds) before I could get solder to melt. In a few cases I felt the board getting warm. I changed tips to my original tip (after cleaning it up) and dwell times dropped to about 3 seconds. So what tip should I be using? Also which DMM should I buy? Is there one out there that is considered a best buy or a great unit at a good price (the cheaper the better)?? - Keith KD1E - - K1 12xx - - K2 5411 (pile'o'parts) - _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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DMM's
I've got few DMM's from expensive Flukes to a cheap-o that arrived free with a parts order one time. Comparing them, electrically there are only two differences: speed and number of digits. Cheap meters typically have 3-1/2 digit displays. That's okay for some things, but I find myself wanting the resolution provided by a full four digit display. Cheaper meters take longer to display the value - up to 2 or 3 seconds compared to almost instantaneous display for the more expensive units. That's a function of the chip used in the meter. Accuracy of all of the meters is identical, within the resolution of their displays. It's amazing how cheap and accurate the voltage divider networks used for the range selectors are these days. Also, unlike the 'days of yore' all modern DMMs have a rather high input impedance, > 10 Megohms. That's essential to avoid false readings because the meter loaded the circuit too much. We used to spend a relative fortune on a Vacuum Tube Volt Meters to get the sort of high impedance one expects from a DMM today. I mention it because there are some well-loved old relics from the past sill around that use real "wiggly-needle" d'Arsonval movements, such as the famous Simpson 260 Multimeters. Modern builders sometimes pick up. They do not have the low input resistance of modern DMM's. They are okay in circuits carrying significant current, but useless in high-impedance circuits. Unless you know something about the impedance of the circuit you're probing, they will lead you astray. Mechanical ruggedness is another consideration. I've got a Radio Shack meter that has taken a bit of a beating and still keeps on working just fine. But, undeniably, the Flukes and other "high end" meters are more rugged mechanically, especially when equipped with the various rubber boots and other protective accessories one can buy for them. I do enjoy the various ancillary functions modern DMM's provide, and I'd probably not consider a replacement that didn't include, as a minimum, capacitance and transistor testing. One meter I have will identify the transistor pinout and give me the hFe (gain) measurement automatically, so I can grab any strange unit from 'ye olde junque box' and stick it in the meter to find out how to wire it and what it will do in most circuits. SOLDERING 700F (375C) is a good temperature for soldering to Elecraft pcbs most of the time. I'd not go lower. If you are using desoldering braid or soldering to a large pad or one connected to the ground plane, you may want more. When hitting large pads or stuff on the ground plane, I jump the temperature to 800F (425C) or so. That's one of the great features of my Hakko 936 that I like: change the temperature with a twist of the knob. The tip follows the knob setting in just a couple of seconds. I real good clue to the proper soldering temperature is the "dwell" time. You debond pads and traces and damage components as much by excessive dwell time as by temperature, so a cool tip may be more dangerous than a hotter one. About 2 seconds is the longest I'd ever stay on any normal pcb solder pad: perhaps 3 or 4 seconds maximum on one attached to a large ground plane or other large metal. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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Of course I meant to say that the old multimeters like the Simpson 260 do
not have the HIGH input impedance of modern DMM's (I said "low input impedance" by mistake. One other point that has become second nature to most of us now but which still catches some newer builders who like the old gear: never, never use an older multimeter meter on modern solid state gear!! They typically put enough voltage on the circuit to destroy a roomful of I.C.s and transistors. The voltages they use in ohms scale were completely harmless around vacuum tube gear, but absolutely "deadly" around most solid state stuff. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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This is NOT my day: I wrote "never, never use an older multimeter meter on
modern solid state gear!! They typically put enough voltage on the circuit to destroy a roomful of I.C.s and transistors. The voltages they use in ohms scale were completely harmless around vacuum tube gear, but absolutely "deadly" around most solid state stuff." I'm speaking about resistance measurements! The voltage the old multimeters apply to a circuit when measuring resistance is deadly to most solid state equipment. Okay, back to work here and no more stumbling around on the reflector. Sheesh! Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question.
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In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Glad to know Ron that you have a good soldering station I have the same one and use the 700o setting for my soldering.
Paul, KD3JF EX: WA4JGI, WA8TER Central Maryland FM19qd (Map Grid Square) ----- Original Message ---- From: Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Sent: Friday, March 10, 2006 3:02:51 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Arrives - WTCPT question, DMM Question. DMM's I've got few DMM's from expensive Flukes to a cheap-o that arrived free with a parts order one time. Comparing them, electrically there are only two differences: speed and number of digits. Cheap meters typically have 3-1/2 digit displays. That's okay for some things, but I find myself wanting the resolution provided by a full four digit display. Cheaper meters take longer to display the value - up to 2 or 3 seconds compared to almost instantaneous display for the more expensive units. That's a function of the chip used in the meter. Accuracy of all of the meters is identical, within the resolution of their displays. It's amazing how cheap and accurate the voltage divider networks used for the range selectors are these days. Also, unlike the 'days of yore' all modern DMMs have a rather high input impedance, > 10 Megohms. That's essential to avoid false readings because the meter loaded the circuit too much. We used to spend a relative fortune on a Vacuum Tube Volt Meters to get the sort of high impedance one expects from a DMM today. I mention it because there are some well-loved old relics from the past sill around that use real "wiggly-needle" d'Arsonval movements, such as the famous Simpson 260 Multimeters. Modern builders sometimes pick up. They do not have the low input resistance of modern DMM's. They are okay in circuits carrying significant current, but useless in high-impedance circuits. Unless you know something about the impedance of the circuit you're probing, they will lead you astray. Mechanical ruggedness is another consideration. I've got a Radio Shack meter that has taken a bit of a beating and still keeps on working just fine. But, undeniably, the Flukes and other "high end" meters are more rugged mechanically, especially when equipped with the various rubber boots and other protective accessories one can buy for them. I do enjoy the various ancillary functions modern DMM's provide, and I'd probably not consider a replacement that didn't include, as a minimum, capacitance and transistor testing. One meter I have will identify the transistor pinout and give me the hFe (gain) measurement automatically, so I can grab any strange unit from 'ye olde junque box' and stick it in the meter to find out how to wire it and what it will do in most circuits. SOLDERING 700F (375C) is a good temperature for soldering to Elecraft pcbs most of the time. I'd not go lower. If you are using desoldering braid or soldering to a large pad or one connected to the ground plane, you may want more. When hitting large pads or stuff on the ground plane, I jump the temperature to 800F (425C) or so. That's one of the great features of my Hakko 936 that I like: change the temperature with a twist of the knob. The tip follows the knob setting in just a couple of seconds. I real good clue to the proper soldering temperature is the "dwell" time. You debond pads and traces and damage components as much by excessive dwell time as by temperature, so a cool tip may be more dangerous than a hotter one. About 2 seconds is the longest I'd ever stay on any normal pcb solder pad: perhaps 3 or 4 seconds maximum on one attached to a large ground plane or other large metal. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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