[K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
Locked
[K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
 
|
Looking for comments about the reissue of this amp as I'm considering
adding a panadapter to my venerable (and very capable) K2. There is only one review at DXE and it is not very complimentary. -- 72, Clark, WU4B QRPARCI #10815 SKCC #3892 NAQCC #5055 CWOPS #1869 Collins Collectors #AC90-12432 Southeastern DX Club <http://www.sedxc.org> North Georgia QRP Club <http://www.nogaqrp.org> *"It is vain to do with more what can be done with less."* *Attributed to *William of Occam (1288 AD - 1348 AD) ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Not sure about a review at DXE, but categorically anything cooked up by
the late Jack Smith K8ZOA is an exceptional performer. The CLifton ports that DXE has done have been well implemented so you can expect good results. I've used the original Clifton version of the board in a number of projects and it's excellent. The huge reverse isolation ensures that the LO of the SDR does not feed back into the rig. 73/jeff/ac0c alpha-charlie-zero-charlie www.ac0c.com On 8/19/19 10:54 PM, Clark Macaulay wrote: > Looking for comments about the reissue of this amp as I'm considering > adding a panadapter to my venerable (and very capable) K2. There is only > one review at DXE and it is not very complimentary. > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
In reply to this post by engineercm
Clark,
I have installed the original Z10000 buffer amp in several K2s. They work very well. The DXE version is prebuilt, and should simplify installation. I see 3 reviews on the DXE website (but none for the K2), and they all show it as excellent and easy to install. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/19/2019 10:54 AM, Clark Macaulay wrote: > Looking for comments about the reissue of this amp as I'm considering > adding a panadapter to my venerable (and very capable) K2. There is only > one review at DXE and it is not very complimentary. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Don...
I got one of the original Clifton Lab boards and installed it in my K2 [after you had serviced the unit]. Installation required a choice of pick off points: right after the first mixer, and somewhere else a bit more isolated [don't have the instructions before me]. I chose the first. It works very well although the LO leakage is significant and results in a pretty big birdie on the pan display. This is not really a problem. That said, do you have any experience with this item using the more isolated pick off? If so, does the isolated pick off eliminate the birdie from the display? Thanks for your comments. ...robert On 8/19/2019 15:27, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Clark, > > I have installed the original Z10000 buffer amp in several K2s. They > work very well. The DXE version is prebuilt, and should simplify > installation. > I see 3 reviews on the DXE website (but none for the K2), and they all > show it as excellent and easy to install. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 8/19/2019 10:54 AM, Clark Macaulay wrote: >> Looking for comments about the reissue of this amp as I'm considering >> adding a panadapter to my venerable (and very capable) K2. There is only >> one review at DXE and it is not very complimentary. > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] -- Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY [hidden email] Syracuse, New York, USA ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Robert,
Yes, the alternate connection point will reduce the K2 LO strength. Be aware that there are other causes for that center spike on the display, including soundcard and cabling inadequacies. If those are the real issue for you, the LP-Pan forum is the best place for advice. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/19/2019 7:47 PM, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft wrote: > Don... > > I got one of the original Clifton Lab boards and installed it in my K2 > [after you had serviced the unit]. Installation required a choice of > pick off points: right after the first mixer, and somewhere else a bit > more isolated [don't have the instructions before me]. I chose the > first. It works very well although the LO leakage is significant and > results in a pretty big birdie on the pan display. This is not really a > problem. That said, do you have any experience with this item using the > more isolated pick off? If so, does the isolated pick off eliminate the > birdie from the display? Thanks for your comments. Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
When I ordered the unit for the K2, I was expecting all the parts needed to
install the amp. I was mistaken. The only documentation provided are legacy documents showing how to connect to the pins underneath the NB board using a 3 pin socket/pins, which is very clean, but the DXE kit did not not supply them (no big deal as I have these in my junk box). The bigger (and for me, I fear) insurmountable task is for the input cable that was provided. It is a jumper cable with two mini-SMA connectors (I think) on it, but since the K2 doesn't have any such connector, one end must be cut off and a pig-tail created. I do not know what size coax cable is used, but it is FAR SMALLER than RG-174 which is about the smallest my aging hands can work with. The board is very neatly constructed with SMT components but no place I can see to tap off using RG-174 in place of the supplied cable. So....I would appreciate suggestions from anyone who has installed the DXE version in their K2 and how they connected the K2 to the input to the board. Clark, WU4B -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
|
|
In reply to this post by engineercm
Clark,
I have the original Clifton Labs instructions for building and installing the amp into a K2. Your amp already built, so all you need are the installation instructions, right? I can scan them, and send them to you as a .pdf. Let me know. 73, Jim KO5V ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Hi, Jim. Thanks for the quick reply. I didn't make my question as clear as
I thought I had. I have the installation documents (from DXE). That's where the neat implementation is shown using the 3-pin connector. My problem is the very small cable for input that mates with the new board. I am not able physically to strip and split out a pig tail from such small cable. At least I don't think I can. How small is it? It looks like the size of #22 wire. It would be very easy to nick the braid and I'm not even sure I could work with an extremely small inner conductor in trying to solder it. If someone has successfully stripped this cable and created the pigtail, I'd like to know how they did it. Otherwise I'll sell the DXE kit as it is and shelve plans for the panadapter for the K2. 72, Clark, WU4B -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
|
|
In reply to this post by engineercm
Clark,
Sorry, I should have read your question a bit more carefully - not enough coffee, I guess. I used the small RG178 cable that came with the kit. I carefully used a one-sided razor blade to cut the outer jacket and dielectric. I stripped the outer jacket back about 1/2", then cut the braid back so about 1/8" was exposed beyond the jacket. I bent a cut resistor lead around the braid, soldered it, and then bent that forward. It wasn't difficult to strip the dielectric to expose the center conductor. I had to be careful, but it really wasn't too hard (but I did use my magnifying glasses!). For what it's worth, all of the the pictures of the 3-wire pigtail in my instructions show RG174 (and mention that). Maybe you could use the "bigger" cable. I hope this helps, and actually answers your question. 73, Jim KO5V ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Helps a lot, Jim.
Yes...you answered my question in that you have done it. So, I'll set aside a morning where I swear off coffee (steadier hands) and using a new razor blade give it a try. Didn't know the cable in the kit is RG178 which is about 30% smaller than RG174. I don't see anyplace on the board to tack on a RG174 cable as the pads for the SMT components are so small. It's actually a beautiful board. For anyone who stumbles on this thread, I'm not being critical of the DXE kit. Nor am I inexperienced in building stuff (several QRP radios including the K2). Looking at the size of the cable, I'm not at all sure I can make this happen. I really do want the buffer amp installed in my K2. Nothing ventured, nothing gained so say the sages. On Thu, Oct 10, 2019 at 1:03 PM Jim KO5V <[hidden email]> wrote: > Clark, > > Sorry, I should have read your question a bit more carefully - not enough > coffee, I guess. > > I used the small RG178 cable that came with the kit. > > I carefully used a one-sided razor blade to cut the outer jacket and > dielectric. I stripped the outer jacket back about 1/2", then cut the braid > back so about 1/8" was exposed beyond the jacket. I bent a cut resistor > lead around the braid, soldered it, and then bent that forward. It wasn't > difficult to strip the dielectric to expose the center conductor. I had to > be careful, but it really wasn't too hard (but I did use my magnifying > glasses!). > > For what it's worth, all of the the pictures of the 3-wire pigtail in my > instructions show RG174 (and mention that). Maybe you could use the > "bigger" cable. > > I hope this helps, and actually answers your question. > > 73, Jim KO5V > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > -- 73, Clark, WU4B QRPARCI #10815 SKCC #3892 NAQCC #5055 CWOPS #1869 Collins Collectors #AC90-12432 Southeastern DX Club <http://www.sedxc.org> North Georgia QRP Club <http://www.nogaqrp.org> *"It is vain to do with more what can be done with less."* *Attributed to *William of Occam (1288 AD - 1348 AD) ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Clark and all,
The secret to stripping the outer insulation from ANY coax (including the RG178) is to first score the outer insulation a bit (not trying to cut all the way to the shield), then bend the cable at the score mark which will stretch the insulation a bit - then a light touch with the blade will cause the insulation to split all the way down to the shield. Rotate the cable to the other side and do the 'bend and touch' thing again. You should then be able to slide the insulation off the shield. Separate the shield strands and split them into two groups - twist the strands on one half and cut the rest away. You can do the same "score, bend and touch" operation to the center conductor if you do not have good wire cutters to strip it. Do not nick the conductor, or it will break after it is soldered. The other thing many hams do not realize is that the braid of the shield should NOT be filled with solder (making it stiff). Solder only the tip as far in as necessary to make the connection. If soldered stiff, it will usually break either where it is soldered to the board or connector or at the point where the braid exits the coax. I have replaced the input coax on many KPA100s and KAT2s that were broken because the shield was soldered stiff. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/10/2019 2:27 PM, Clark Macaulay wrote: > Helps a lot, Jim. > > Yes...you answered my question in that you have done it. So, I'll set > aside a morning where I swear off coffee (steadier hands) and using a new > razor blade give it a try. Didn't know the cable in the kit is RG178 which > is about 30% smaller than RG174. I don't see anyplace on the board to tack > on a RG174 cable as the pads for the SMT components are so small. It's > actually a beautiful board. > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
Re: [K2] DXE Clifton Labs Z10000 Buffer Amp
|
|
Thanks for the tip, Don. Been preparing coax cables for years the hard (and wrong) way.
Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 10, 2019, at 3:02 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Clark and all, > > The secret to stripping the outer insulation from ANY coax (including the RG178) is to first score the outer insulation a bit (not trying to cut all the way to the shield), then bend the cable at the score mark which will stretch the insulation a bit - then a light touch with the blade will cause the insulation to split all the way down to the shield. > Rotate the cable to the other side and do the 'bend and touch' thing again. You should then be able to slide the insulation off the shield. > > Separate the shield strands and split them into two groups - twist the strands on one half and cut the rest away. > > You can do the same "score, bend and touch" operation to the center conductor if you do not have good wire cutters to strip it. Do not nick the conductor, or it will break after it is soldered. > > The other thing many hams do not realize is that the braid of the shield should NOT be filled with solder (making it stiff). Solder only the tip as far in as necessary to make the connection. If soldered stiff, it will usually break either where it is soldered to the board or connector or at the point where the braid exits the coax. > I have replaced the input coax on many KPA100s and KAT2s that were broken because the shield was soldered stiff. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > >> On 10/10/2019 2:27 PM, Clark Macaulay wrote: >> Helps a lot, Jim. >> Yes...you answered my question in that you have done it. So, I'll set >> aside a morning where I swear off coffee (steadier hands) and using a new >> razor blade give it a try. Didn't know the cable in the kit is RG178 which >> is about 30% smaller than RG174. I don't see anyplace on the board to tack >> on a RG174 cable as the pads for the SMT components are so small. It's >> actually a beautiful board. Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
|
|
In reply to this post by engineercm
Yes, me too...
>>Thanks for the tip, Don. Been preparing coax cables for years the hard (and wrong) way. > >Sent from my iPhone > >> On Oct 10, 2019, at 3:02 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> Clark and all, >> >> The secret to stripping the outer insulation from ANY coax (including the RG178) is to first score the outer insulation a bit (not trying to cut all the way to the shield), then bend the cable at the score mark which will stretch the insulation a bit - then a light touch with the blade will cause the insulation to split all the way down to the shield. >> Rotate the cable to the other side and do the 'bend and touch' thing again. You should then be able to slide the insulation off the shield. >> >> Separate the shield strands and split them into two groups - twist the strands on one half and cut the rest away. >> >> You can do the same "score, bend and touch" operation to the center conductor if you do not have good wire cutters to strip it. Do not nick the conductor, or it will break after it is soldered. >> >> The other thing many hams do not realize is that the braid of the shield should NOT be filled with solder (making it stiff). Solder only the tip as far in as necessary to make the connection. If soldered stiff, it will usually break either where it is soldered to the board or connector or at the point where the braid exits the coax. >> I have replaced the input coax on many KPA100s and KAT2s that were broken because the shield was soldered stiff. Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
«
Return to Elecraft
|
1 view|%1 views
| Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |