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K2: I killed my KPA100

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Jim KO5V

K2: I killed my KPA100

I tried to tune the KPA/KAT100, and the SWR went to red. I quickly exited 'tune', checked all of the connections, and the antenna, and tried again. Same result, except before I could take it out of tune (it was tuning maybe 2-3 seconds), all of the KPA/KAT100 lights went out. The K2 was fine. I took the amp off of the EC2 and installed it directly on the K2. When I powered on the the K2, using its low-current supply, the K2 came up normal, and didn't recognize the amp. The base K2 seems OK, and transmitted into my dummy load, and could hear the NGEN. When I powered it through the KPA's high-current supply, the K2 was dead. The base K2 again came back to life when I removed the KAT's power, and went back to the base K2's supply.

I measured the 12V supply when plugged into the KAT100, and I get between 1V and 2V - the PS must be protecting itself - it looks like there's a short...

Earlier today, I had been trying to get my computer to talk to the K2 through a logging program. After I built the rig, I tested my cables and the KIO2 by successfully controlling the K2 with 'K2 Remote', so it was working. Today, the logging software would poll the K2, and get no response. 'K2 Remote" couldn't see the rig either. The DB9 connector that connects to the KIO2 has the cables to the KPA/KAT and serial cable, and I made sure the computer's connector was wired correctly for interfacing a "normal" serial cable to the KIO2. It all worked.

I looked at the KPA schematic, and thought a diode, or something in the current sensing circuit might have failed. I removed Q5, and it tests just like my new spare. I lifted one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked weird - but I don't really understand that device; In "diode" mode, I get .150V in one direction, open in the other. When I test it in resistance, I eventually measure 80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It might be OK? I hope I didn't kill U7.

I performed the resistance tests in the KPA manual, and they are nominal. Q1 and Q2 test OK, and I think Q3 and Q4 are OK. Q3 tests differently than Q4, but looking at the schematic, I think what I see makes sense.

It also occurred to me that when I was trying to get the logging program to work, I might have caused a failure in my cables while I was hooking and unhooking the serial connection. That might have caused a communication problem that made the amp go a bit nuts.

Sorry for the long message. ANY suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

73, Jim KO5V

(and I was recently bragging that it was all working so well)
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Don Wilhelm

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

Jim,

My usual procedure when tackling a problem of that nature is to first
isolate the problem to one component.
You have already apparently checked out the base K2.

Next, remove the top cover from the base K2 and connect the KPA100 to it
(remove the KPA100 from the EC2 enclosure).
Put the KPA100 upside down on a box or book about 1/2 the height of the
K2 and plug the cables into the K2.

Then test with an external wattmeter and a dummy load connected to the
KPA100 SO-239 antenna jack.

First power the base K2 from the 2.1mm coaxial power jack. Check at 5
watts and at 10 watts - this checks the transmit path through the KPA100
in QRP mode. Use an external wattmeter and a dummy load. Does the
external wattmeter agree roughly with the K2 display indication and the
power knob setting.

If you have a much higher actual power level on the external wattmeter,
the KPA100 wattmeter diodes D16 and D17 are the first suspects - replace
them.

If all is well so far, remove the 2.1mm power plug and power the
assembly with the APP connector on the KPA100. Make the same test.

After that, check the bias on the KPA100 for a 400ma rise in current
with the K2 set to CW and in CW TEST mode. Hold the mode button until
TEST appears in the LCD, and the CW icon will blink.

Do a tune and check that the current rise from receive to TUNE is 400ma.

Then set the power to 50 watts and do a TUNE. Read the actual power on
the external wattmeter. With a TUNE, it should be about 20 watts.

If it is greater, you have a problem with the KPA100 wattmeter - likely
diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged and need to be replaced.

More troubleshooting is possible, but that is a good starting point.
If all goes well with those tests, then I can tell you how to check the
KAT100 alone (without the KPA100).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/3/2019 10:13 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

> I tried to tune the KPA/KAT100, and the SWR went to red. I quickly exited 'tune', checked all of the connections, and the antenna, and tried again. Same result, except before I could take it out of tune (it was tuning maybe 2-3 seconds), all of the KPA/KAT100 lights went out. The K2 was fine. I took the amp off of the EC2 and installed it directly on the K2. When I powered on the the K2, using its low-current supply, the K2 came up normal, and didn't recognize the amp. The base K2 seems OK, and transmitted into my dummy load, and could hear the NGEN. When I powered it through the KPA's high-current supply, the K2 was dead. The base K2 again came back to life when I removed the KAT's power, and went back to the base K2's supply.
>
> I measured the 12V supply when plugged into the KAT100, and I get between 1V and 2V - the PS must be protecting itself - it looks like there's a short...
>
> Earlier today, I had been trying to get my computer to talk to the K2 through a logging program. After I built the rig, I tested my cables and the KIO2 by successfully controlling the K2 with 'K2 Remote', so it was working. Today, the logging software would poll the K2, and get no response. 'K2 Remote" couldn't see the rig either. The DB9 connector that connects to the KIO2 has the cables to the KPA/KAT and serial cable, and I made sure the computer's connector was wired correctly for interfacing a "normal" serial cable to the KIO2. It all worked.
>
> I looked at the KPA schematic, and thought a diode, or something in the current sensing circuit might have failed. I removed Q5, and it tests just like my new spare. I lifted one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked weird - but I don't really understand that device; In "diode" mode, I get .150V in one direction, open in the other. When I test it in resistance, I eventually measure 80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It might be OK? I hope I didn't kill U7.
>
> I performed the resistance tests in the KPA manual, and they are nominal. Q1 and Q2 test OK, and I think Q3 and Q4 are OK. Q3 tests differently than Q4, but looking at the schematic, I think what I see makes sense.
>
> It also occurred to me that when I was trying to get the logging program to work, I might have caused a failure in my cables while I was hooking and unhooking the serial connection. That might have caused a communication problem that made the amp go a bit nuts.
>
> Sorry for the long message. ANY suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

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Jim KO5V

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Hi Don,

I got the following results:

1. Base K2 seems to be OK.

2. The KPA100 is upside down next to the K2, and everything is powered through the K2 and its power supply. Using the LP-100 and 50ohm dummy load, the 5W and 10W measurements through the KPA100 check out nominally.

3. When I apply power through the KPA100's power port, and using its power supply, the K2 and KPA100 are dead. The power supply measures about 1.8V when plugged into the KPA100, but ~13.5V with no load.

4. As I mentioned below, I previously checked D9 and D10 and Q5. D10 and Q5 were OK, but I didn't really understand what I saw when I checked D9. From my first post:

"I lifted one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked weird - In "diode" mode, I get .150V in one direction, open in the other. When I test it in resistance, I eventually measure 80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It might be OK?"

Next?

Thanks. 73,

Jim KO5V

-----Original Message-----

>From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>Sent: Feb 3, 2019 8:50 PM
>To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>, Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100
>
>Jim,
>
>My usual procedure when tackling a problem of that nature is to first
>isolate the problem to one component.
>You have already apparently checked out the base K2.
>
>Next, remove the top cover from the base K2 and connect the KPA100 to it
>(remove the KPA100 from the EC2 enclosure).
>Put the KPA100 upside down on a box or book about 1/2 the height of the
>K2 and plug the cables into the K2.
>
>Then test with an external wattmeter and a dummy load connected to the
>KPA100 SO-239 antenna jack.
>
>First power the base K2 from the 2.1mm coaxial power jack. Check at 5
>watts and at 10 watts - this checks the transmit path through the KPA100
>in QRP mode. Use an external wattmeter and a dummy load. Does the
>external wattmeter agree roughly with the K2 display indication and the
>power knob setting.
>
>If you have a much higher actual power level on the external wattmeter,
>the KPA100 wattmeter diodes D16 and D17 are the first suspects - replace
>them.
>
>If all is well so far, remove the 2.1mm power plug and power the
>assembly with the APP connector on the KPA100. Make the same test.
>
>After that, check the bias on the KPA100 for a 400ma rise in current
>with the K2 set to CW and in CW TEST mode. Hold the mode button until
>TEST appears in the LCD, and the CW icon will blink.
>
>Do a tune and check that the current rise from receive to TUNE is 400ma.
>
>Then set the power to 50 watts and do a TUNE. Read the actual power on
>the external wattmeter. With a TUNE, it should be about 20 watts.
>
>If it is greater, you have a problem with the KPA100 wattmeter - likely
>diodes D16 and D17 have been damaged and need to be replaced.
>
>More troubleshooting is possible, but that is a good starting point.
>If all goes well with those tests, then I can tell you how to check the
>KAT100 alone (without the KPA100).
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>On 2/3/2019 10:13 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

>> Earlier today, I had been trying to get my computer to talk to the K2 through a logging program. After I built the rig, I tested my cables and the KIO2 by successfully controlling the K2 with 'K2 Remote', so it was working. Today, the logging software would poll the K2, and get no response. 'K2 Remote" couldn't see the rig either. The DB9 connector that connects to the KIO2 has the cables to the KPA/KAT and serial cable, and I made sure the computer's connector was wired correctly for interfacing a "normal" serial cable to the KIO2. It all worked.
>>
>> I looked at the KPA schematic, and thought a diode, or something in the current sensing circuit might have failed. I removed Q5, and it tests just like my new spare. I lifted one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked weird - but I don't really understand that device; In "diode" mode, I get .150V in one direction, open in the other. When I test it in resistance, I eventually measure 80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It might be OK? I hope I didn't kill U7.
>>
>> I performed the resistance tests in the KPA manual, and they are nominal. Q1 and Q2 test OK, and I think Q3 and Q4 are OK. Q3 tests differently than Q4, but looking at the schematic, I think what I see makes sense.
>>
>> It also occurred to me that when I was trying to get the logging program to work, I might have caused a failure in my cables while I was hooking and unhooking the serial connection. That might have caused a communication problem that made the amp go a bit nuts.
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Don Wilhelm

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Jim,

Is this KPA100 newly assembled? Or did it work beefore?

Your KPA100 D9 and D10 diode measurements seem to be normal.

Check the orientation of all diodes against the parts placement diagram
in the back of the manual.

It would appear that you have a short on the 12 volt supply input of the
KPA100 - due to a solder splash or some other problem.

Look at all points that are labeled 12PA in the schematic.
Your ohmmeter from ground to the + terminal of J3 should show the short.
Any chance that you have assembled J3 backwards?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/6/2019 4:59 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

> Hi Don,
>
> I got the following results:
>
> 1. Base K2 seems to be OK.
>
> 2. The KPA100 is upside down next to the K2, and everything is powered through the K2 and its power supply. Using the LP-100 and 50ohm dummy load, the 5W and 10W measurements through the KPA100 check out nominally.
>
> 3. When I apply power through the KPA100's power port, and using its power supply, the K2 and KPA100 are dead. The power supply measures about 1.8V when plugged into the KPA100, but ~13.5V with no load.
>
> 4. As I mentioned below, I previously checked D9 and D10 and Q5. D10 and Q5 were OK, but I didn't really understand what I saw when I checked D9. From my first post:
>
> "I lifted one side of D10, and it seems to test OK, but when I did the same to D9, it looked weird - In "diode" mode, I get .150V in one direction, open in the other. When I test it in resistance, I eventually measure 80-90ohms in one direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It might be OK?"
>
>

Jim KO5V

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Don,

I finished the amp a few weeks ago. Both the amp and the KAT100 in the EC2 have been working as they should, and I've made many QSOs, many with transmit times long enough to cause the fan to switch to the high-speed.

When I started looking for this problem, I found the transistor mounting screws loose (Forgot to check them!). After I tightened them up, the amp passed the resistance checks in the manual.

J3 is correct, I checked the K2's supply voltage at the cathode-end of D9, and measured +12V. It is then blocked by D9.

When I measured the KPA's power supply's no-load voltage it was at the Power Pole end of the cable, so the fuse and cable should be good. When the power supply is connected to the KPA, I measure 1.5V across J3.

Measuring between ground and J3+, I see a momentary continuity indication. On a higher resistance scale, the resistance started at at >10k ohms, then reduced, eventually going through zero, and then back up to a very high resistance. It looks like the meter might be charging a capacitor (C83?).

I'll check all of the soldering, and the 12PA points.

Thanks! 73,

Jim KO5V

-----Original Message-----

>From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>Sent: Feb 7, 2019 5:43 AM
>To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>, Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100
>
>Jim,
>
>Is this KPA100 newly assembled? Or did it work beefore?
>
>Your KPA100 D9 and D10 diode measurements seem to be normal.
>
>Check the orientation of all diodes against the parts placement diagram
>in the back of the manual.
>
>It would appear that you have a short on the 12 volt supply input of the
>KPA100 - due to a solder splash or some other problem.
>
>Look at all points that are labeled 12PA in the schematic.
>Your ohmmeter from ground to the + terminal of J3 should show the short.
>Any chance that you have assembled J3 backwards?

Don Wilhelm

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

Jim,

OK since you have good voltage at the inside of J3, all should be well
(did I misunderstand you for the side of J3 that you measured?).

The resistance measured at J3 would normally start out at a lower
resistance and increase as the voltage from the DMM charges C51. If you
have a strong light shining on the PA transistors, they will produce
some small voltage. Shade the PA transistors and try that measurement
again.

Since you say that D9 is blocking DC to the base K2, then it must be
installed backwards. D9 should conduct from the anode to the cathode,
but not the other way around. It is there to protect the base K2 (but
not the KPA100) from reverse polarity.

Check the contacts on J4 - the spring fingers seen through the
rectangular holes should have snapped into place locking the contacts to
the housing. If you do not see the spring fingers through the
rectangular hole, the contacts have not been properly inserted.

You should also check the Anderson Power Poles. Look in the end - the
contact blade should be latched over the spring finger. If you can see
both the spring finger and the contact blade, give the contact blade an
extra push to seat it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/7/2019 10:41 AM, Jim KO5V wrote:

> Don,
>
> I finished the amp a few weeks ago. Both the amp and the KAT100 in the EC2 have been working as they should, and I've made many QSOs, many with transmit times long enough to cause the fan to switch to the high-speed.
>
> When I started looking for this problem, I found the transistor mounting screws loose (Forgot to check them!). After I tightened them up, the amp passed the resistance checks in the manual.
>
> J3 is correct, I checked the K2's supply voltage at the cathode-end of D9, and measured +12V. It is then blocked by D9.
>
> When I measured the KPA's power supply's no-load voltage it was at the Power Pole end of the cable, so the fuse and cable should be good. When the power supply is connected to the KPA, I measure 1.5V across J3.
>
> Measuring between ground and J3+, I see a momentary continuity indication. On a higher resistance scale, the resistance started at at >10k ohms, then reduced, eventually going through zero, and then back up to a very high resistance. It looks like the meter might be charging a capacitor (C83?).
>
> I'll check all of the soldering, and the 12PA points.
>

Jim KO5V

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Don,

OK, I again thoroughly checked the PP connectors and the fuse/fuse holder, they're good, so I decided to remove the cable from the power supply, and the bolt negative output of the Tripp-Lite rotated. I opened it up and found the insulating washer was broken. I need to go to the hardware store and get a couple of new washers, but I'll bet that's the problem. It would run my LP100 when it was the only thing connected, but that draws little current. I just assumed the problem was my work - and it may still be! I'll let you know what happens after I repair the supply.

Thanks for your patience. 73,

Jim KO5V

-----Original Message-----

>From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>Sent: Feb 7, 2019 11:00 AM
>To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>
>Jim,
>
>All that says the KPA100 should be OK, check the Anderson Power poles
>for proper insertion of the contact blades both on your power cable and
>on the KPA100.

Jim KO5V

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Don,

It is all working again!

The power supply's negative terminal was the problem. The terminal wan't falling off, but the internal side of the plastic feed-thru washer had cracked, and about half fell off inside. That caused it to loosen up slightly. Without the KPA hooked up, it supplied the LP-100 with enough current, and it measured the correct voltage, so I assumed it was OK, and eliminated it.

I also mentioned that I was having trouble getting the K2 to communicate with a logging program, and again, I was convinced that my home-built multi-cable assembly was the culprit. It is now working. I replaced the BRAND NEW 6' long DB9 to DB9 serial cable (purchased from a "large on-line retailer"), with an old one I bought years ago at Radio Shack.

I have a lot of experience that tells me that I should check my work first, but now I know not to trust everything else - even if it is new.

Thanks again for your help. 73,

Jim KO5V

>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>>Sent: Feb 7, 2019 12:22 PM
>>To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>>Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>>
>>Jim,
>>
>>That certainly could cause the problem.
>>
>>73,
>>Don W3FPR
>>
>>On 2/7/2019 1:50 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
>>> Don,
>>>
>>> OK, I again thoroughly checked the PP connectors and the fuse/fuse holder, they're good, so I decided to remove the cable from the power supply, and the bolt negative output of the Tripp-Lite rotated. I opened it up and found the insulating washer was broken. I need to go to the hardware store and get a couple of new washers, but I'll bet that's the problem. It would run my LP100 when it was the only thing connected, but that draws little current. I just assumed the problem was my work - and it may still be! I'll let you know what happens after I repair the supply.
>>>
>>> Thanks for your patience. 73,
>>>
>>> Jim KO5V
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>>>> Sent: Feb 7, 2019 11:00 AM
>>>> To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>>>> Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>>>>
>>>> Jim,
>>>>
>>>> All that says the KPA100 should be OK, check the Anderson Power poles
>>>> for proper insertion of the contact blades both on your power cable and
>>>> on the KPA100.
>>

Bob McGraw - K4TAX

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

I've always said "new only guarantees new....not necessarily good".
That's one reason why companies supply a warranty with a new product.
They expect some failures and some to be dead out of the box.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 2/7/2019 6:41 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

> Don,
>
> It is all working again!
>
> The power supply's negative terminal was the problem. The terminal wan't falling off, but the internal side of the plastic feed-thru washer had cracked, and about half fell off inside. That caused it to loosen up slightly. Without the KPA hooked up, it supplied the LP-100 with enough current, and it measured the correct voltage, so I assumed it was OK, and eliminated it.
>
> I also mentioned that I was having trouble getting the K2 to communicate with a logging program, and again, I was convinced that my home-built multi-cable assembly was the culprit. It is now working. I replaced the BRAND NEW 6' long DB9 to DB9 serial cable (purchased from a "large on-line retailer"), with an old one I bought years ago at Radio Shack.
>
> I have a lot of experience that tells me that I should check my work first, but now I know not to trust everything else - even if it is new.
>
> Thanks again for your help. 73,
>
> Jim KO5V
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>>> Sent: Feb 7, 2019 12:22 PM
>>> To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>>> Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>>>
>>> Jim,
>>>
>>> That certainly could cause the problem.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 2/7/2019 1:50 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
>>>> Don,
>>>>
>>>> OK, I again thoroughly checked the PP connectors and the fuse/fuse holder, they're good, so I decided to remove the cable from the power supply, and the bolt negative output of the Tripp-Lite rotated. I opened it up and found the insulating washer was broken. I need to go to the hardware store and get a couple of new washers, but I'll bet that's the problem. It would run my LP100 when it was the only thing connected, but that draws little current. I just assumed the problem was my work - and it may still be! I'll let you know what happens after I repair the supply.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for your patience. 73,
>>>>
>>>> Jim KO5V
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>>>>> Sent: Feb 7, 2019 11:00 AM
>>>>> To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>>>>> Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>>>>>
>>>>> Jim,
>>>>>
>>>>> All that says the KPA100 should be OK, check the Anderson Power poles
>>>>> for proper insertion of the contact blades both on your power cable and
>>>>> on the KPA100.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

Don Wilhelm

Re: K2: I killed my KPA100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Jim,

Glad to hear that you have it solved.
It is necessary to have all power connections tight.

Yes, check the simple things first. That is a rabbit hole we all fall
into at one time or another.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/7/2019 7:41 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:

> Don,
>
> It is all working again!
>
> The power supply's negative terminal was the problem. The terminal wan't falling off, but the internal side of the plastic feed-thru washer had cracked, and about half fell off inside. That caused it to loosen up slightly. Without the KPA hooked up, it supplied the LP-100 with enough current, and it measured the correct voltage, so I assumed it was OK, and eliminated it.
>
> I also mentioned that I was having trouble getting the K2 to communicate with a logging program, and again, I was convinced that my home-built multi-cable assembly was the culprit. It is now working. I replaced the BRAND NEW 6' long DB9 to DB9 serial cable (purchased from a "large on-line retailer"), with an old one I bought years ago at Radio Shack.
>
> I have a lot of experience that tells me that I should check my work first, but now I know not to trust everything else - even if it is new.
>
> Thanks again for your help. 73,
>
> Jim KO5V
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>>> Sent: Feb 7, 2019 12:22 PM
>>> To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>>> Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>>>
>>> Jim,
>>>
>>> That certainly could cause the problem.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 2/7/2019 1:50 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
>>>> Don,
>>>>
>>>> OK, I again thoroughly checked the PP connectors and the fuse/fuse holder, they're good, so I decided to remove the cable from the power supply, and the bolt negative output of the Tripp-Lite rotated. I opened it up and found the insulating washer was broken. I need to go to the hardware store and get a couple of new washers, but I'll bet that's the problem. It would run my LP100 when it was the only thing connected, but that draws little current. I just assumed the problem was my work - and it may still be! I'll let you know what happens after I repair the supply.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for your patience. 73,
>>>>
>>>> Jim KO5V
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
>>>>> Sent: Feb 7, 2019 11:00 AM
>>>>> To: Jim KO5V <[hidden email]>
>>>>> Subject: Re: K2: I killed my KPA100
>>>>>
>>>>> Jim,
>>>>>
>>>>> All that says the KPA100 should be OK, check the Anderson Power poles
>>>>> for proper insertion of the contact blades both on your power cable and
>>>>> on the KPA100.
>>>
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Ken Arck

Re: FS: Like new K3S/100

In reply to this post by Jim KO5V

Rig is sold, thanks for the interest

Ken

At 02:58 PM 2/6/2019, Ken Arck wrote:

>K3S/100 with current firmware. In like new condition - no scrapes,
>scratches, etc.
>
>K144XV-K 2 meter internal transverter
>K144RFLKV Reference Lock
>
>Basic filters as received from Elecraft
>
>No tuner but custom board that allows selection of ANT1/ANT2 from
>front panel button.
>
>$2,700, shipped CONUS firm
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>President and CTO - Arcom Communications
>Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
>http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
>Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
>we offer complete repeater packages!
>AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
>http://www.irlp.net
>"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
>
>______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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