K2 Initial Tests

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K2 Initial Tests

bdenley
After my tilt-bail struggle, I moved on the the initial test of the K2 with
mixed results:

After setting all pots to the recommended positions, I started up the K2 and
all went according to the manual.  I got the INFO 201 followed by the
frequency (7100.00C).
After restart, the Elecraft logo came on and then the frequency as expected.
Intermittantly, however, "P 14.8" kept coming up alternating with the
frequency display.  I could only make this stop by increasing the power away
from minimum.  In addition, tapping the display button had no efffect at
all.  The encoder test went fine, with the frequency changing nicely.  I
noticed that the keyer knob changed the keyer speed, but so did the power
knob when I rotated it.  The power reading also changed.

I will keep looking but would appreciate any ideas.
Thanks
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html 

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Re: K2 Initial Tests

Don Wilhelm-4
Brian,

I would reflow the soldering of the power control pot - make certain
your heat the solder pad adequately.

If your soldering iron is not 700 to 750 deg/F, turn the temperature up.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian Denley wrote:

> After my tilt-bail struggle, I moved on the the initial test of the K2 with
> mixed results:
>
> After setting all pots to the recommended positions, I started up the K2 and
> all went according to the manual.  I got the INFO 201 followed by the
> frequency (7100.00C).
> After restart, the Elecraft logo came on and then the frequency as expected.
> Intermittantly, however, "P 14.8" kept coming up alternating with the
> frequency display.  I could only make this stop by increasing the power away
> from minimum.  In addition, tapping the display button had no efffect at
> all.  The encoder test went fine, with the frequency changing nicely.  I
> noticed that the keyer knob changed the keyer speed, but so did the power
> knob when I rotated it.  The power reading also changed.
>
> I will keep looking but would appreciate any ideas.
> Thanks
> Brian Denley
> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html 
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>  
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Re: K2 Initial Tests

bdenley
Sorry about that Don.  I didn't realize that until I went back and started
the K2 up again to looki for symptoms.  I am disassembling the K@ today and
I will look for soldering issues.  I will pay special attention to U2 as it
controls all the buttons and knobs.  As I mentioned before, the Keyer knob
seems to work normally and the power knob at least causes the P number to
change but it also causes the Keyer speed number to change somewhat.  I have
yet to find any button, other than the power on-off button, that responds.
Thanks for the help and I will report back.

Don: as a matter of courtesy, do I respond back to you or the group?
Thanks
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests


> Brian,
>
> You didn't say anything about the buttons not working before.  First step
> is to re-flow the soldering on the entire front panel.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Brian Denley wrote:
>> Don:
>> Thanks and I will resolder those connections but it bothers me that none
>> of the buttons respond at all.  Only the encoder seems to work properly.
>> Brian Denley
>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
>> To: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
>> Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
>> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2010 10:56 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests
>>
>>
>>> Brian,
>>>
>>> I would reflow the soldering of the power control pot - make certain
>>> your heat the solder pad adequately.
>>>
>>> If your soldering iron is not 700 to 750 deg/F, turn the temperature up.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> Brian Denley wrote:
>>>> After my tilt-bail struggle, I moved on the the initial test of the K2
>>>> with mixed results:
>>>>
>>>> After setting all pots to the recommended positions, I started up the
>>>> K2 and all went according to the manual.  I got the INFO 201 followed
>>>> by the frequency (7100.00C).
>>>> After restart, the Elecraft logo came on and then the frequency as
>>>> expected. Intermittantly, however, "P 14.8" kept coming up alternating
>>>> with the frequency display.  I could only make this stop by increasing
>>>> the power away from minimum.  In addition, tapping the display button
>>>> had no efffect at all.  The encoder test went fine, with the frequency
>>>> changing nicely.  I noticed that the keyer knob changed the keyer
>>>> speed, but so did the power knob when I rotated it.  The power reading
>>>> also changed.
>>>>
>>>> I will keep looking but would appreciate any ideas.
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Brian Denley
>>>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>>
>>

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Re: K2 Initial Tests

bdenley
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Don:
After poking around, I am leading toward D5 of the Front Panel board
installed backwards.  From the schematic, this would prevent bank 1 of the
switches and the power knob from functioning properly and would, I think,
also affect the keyer operation.  I have looked for a photo of this board on
the Elecraft site but the one they have is the 1999 board.  If that circuit
hasn't changed then D5 is indeed backwards.  I can't see the silkscreen
patterm on my board anymore as the diode covers it too well and it is too
stiff to move.  From the schematic, however, I am sure it's backwards.
Thanks again for your help!
Brian
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests


> Brian,
>
> You didn't say anything about the buttons not working before.  First step
> is to re-flow the soldering on the entire front panel.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Brian Denley wrote:
>> Don:
>> Thanks and I will resolder those connections but it bothers me that none
>> of the buttons respond at all.  Only the encoder seems to work properly.
>> Brian Denley
>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html

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Re: K2 Initial Tests

Don Wilhelm-4
Brian,

In the back of the manual, you will find a parts placement diagram that
clearly shows the orientation of the diodes.  Use that for reference
rather than a photo - it is easier.

Yes, D5 installed backwards could cause the buttons to not function, and
may also create other "funny happenings".

73,
Don W3FPR

Brian Denley wrote:

> Don:
> After poking around, I am leading toward D5 of the Front Panel board
> installed backwards.  From the schematic, this would prevent bank 1 of the
> switches and the power knob from functioning properly and would, I think,
> also affect the keyer operation.  I have looked for a photo of this board on
> the Elecraft site but the one they have is the 1999 board.  If that circuit
> hasn't changed then D5 is indeed backwards.  I can't see the silkscreen
> patterm on my board anymore as the diode covers it too well and it is too
> stiff to move.  From the schematic, however, I am sure it's backwards.
> Thanks again for your help!
> Brian
> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
> To: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 10:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests
>
>
>  
>> Brian,
>>
>> You didn't say anything about the buttons not working before.  First step
>> is to re-flow the soldering on the entire front panel.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Brian Denley wrote:
>>    
>>> Don:
>>> Thanks and I will resolder those connections but it bothers me that none
>>> of the buttons respond at all.  Only the encoder seems to work properly.
>>> Brian Denley
>>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>>>      
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>  
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Re: K2 Initial Tests

bdenley
Don:
Yes D5 was backwards.  I was not able to save the diode during removal,
mainly because it was too near the knobs and switches and I have already
melted and replaced one of each.  I ended up cutting the diode leads on top
and just desoldering the leads from the bottom.  I ordered a replacement
diode but I was hoping that the same diode was used elsewhere on the K2 or
accessories and I could 'borrow' one until the replacement came.  No such
luck as it is not used anywhere else on the K2.  I will just have to wait
unitl the part arrives but I feel pretty confident that D5 was the cause of
my troubles.
Thanks again!

Brian
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>; "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests


> Brian,
>
> In the back of the manual, you will find a parts placement diagram that
> clearly shows the orientation of the diodes.  Use that for reference
> rather than a photo - it is easier.
>
> Yes, D5 installed backwards could cause the buttons to not function, and
> may also create other "funny happenings".
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Brian Denley wrote:
>> Don:
>> After poking around, I am leading toward D5 of the Front Panel board
>> installed backwards.  From the schematic, this would prevent bank 1 of
>> the switches and the power knob from functioning properly and would, I
>> think, also affect the keyer operation.  I have looked for a photo of
>> this board on the Elecraft site but the one they have is the 1999 board.
>> If that circuit hasn't changed then D5 is indeed backwards.  I can't see
>> the silkscreen patterm on my board anymore as the diode covers it too
>> well and it is too stiff to move.  From the schematic, however, I am sure
>> it's backwards.
>> Thanks again for your help!
>> Brian
>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
>> To: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
>> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 10:48 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests
>>
>>
>>
>>> Brian,
>>>
>>> You didn't say anything about the buttons not working before.  First
>>> step is to re-flow the soldering on the entire front panel.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> Brian Denley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Don:
>>>> Thanks and I will resolder those connections but it bothers me that
>>>> none of the buttons respond at all.  Only the encoder seems to work
>>>> properly.
>>>> Brian Denley
>>>> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>>>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>>

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Re: K2 Initial Tests

bdenley
After installing the tilt bail and replacing D5 (that I installed backwards)
on the front panel board, my K2 passed all Part 1 tests so now I am on to
Part 2.  Thanks to the group and especially Don for all the advice.

Brian
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denley" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2010 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Initial Tests


> Don:
> Yes D5 was backwards.  I was not able to save the diode during removal,
> mainly because it was too near the knobs and switches and I have already
> melted and replaced one of each.  I ended up cutting the diode leads on
> top
> and just desoldering the leads from the bottom.  I ordered a replacement
> diode but I was hoping that the same diode was used elsewhere on the K2 or
> accessories and I could 'borrow' one until the replacement came.  No such
> luck as it is not used anywhere else on the K2.  I will just have to wait
> unitl the part arrives but I feel pretty confident that D5 was the cause
> of
> my troubles.
> Thanks again!
>
> Brian
> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html

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