K2 K2/100 post FD review

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K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
I was able to finish my KPA100 a few days ago, just in time for Field Day.

The amp worked flawlessly!  No error messages, over heating, etc. made 451
contacts on CW and phone with no bad reports.

I am extremely pleased and wish to thank the Elecraft team for developing
such a great kit!

I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:

80m - 100w
40m - 100w
20m - 80w
15m - 50w
10m - 30w

SWR was never above 1.3-1.

Does that sound normal?

Thanks again!
Mike NJ2OM



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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
Mike,

Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.

On the power output variation, that is not normal.
First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the voltage
display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8 volts, but
higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage shown by the K2
display during transmit is less than 12.6, make certain all power cable
connections are tight.

If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the KPA100
from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.  Connect a dummy load
to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that, check the maximum power from
the base K2 - you should have at least 10 watts on each band.  Record
the power for each band.

Using a dummy load takes away any question about your antennas.  Always
check into a dummy load - with an in-line wattmeter if necessary.

The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low Pass Filter
in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the KPA100, but power the
base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no power to the KPA100 - connect
the dummy load to the SO2339 jack on the KPA100.
Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.  It should
be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2 only.
If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the KPA100 Low
Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of turns on the toroids.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:

>
> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>
> 80m - 100w
> 40m - 100w
> 20m - 80w
> 15m - 50w
> 10m - 30w
>
> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>
> Does that sound normal?
>
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

> On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>
> On the power output variation, that is not normal.
> First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
> You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8 volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make certain all power cable connections are tight.
>
> If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.  Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that, check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>
> Using a dummy load takes away any question about your antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line wattmeter if necessary.
>
> The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack on the KPA100.
> Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.  It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2 only.
> If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of turns on the toroids.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
>> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>> 80m - 100w
>> 40m - 100w
>> 20m - 80w
>> 15m - 50w
>> 10m - 30w
>> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>> Does that sound normal?
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Eric Norris-2
Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of the K2
clan learn something with every post.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
> > On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
> >
> > On the power output variation, that is not normal.
> > First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
> > You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the voltage
> display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8 volts, but higher
> (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage shown by the K2 display during
> transmit is less than 12.6, make certain all power cable connections are
> tight.
> >
> > If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the KPA100
> from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.  Connect a dummy load to
> the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that, check the maximum power from the
> base K2 - you should have at least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power
> for each band.
> >
> > Using a dummy load takes away any question about your antennas.  Always
> check into a dummy load - with an in-line wattmeter if necessary.
> >
> > The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low Pass Filter
> in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the KPA100, but power the
> base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no power to the KPA100 - connect the
> dummy load to the SO2339 jack on the KPA100.
> > Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.  It should
> be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2 only.
> > If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the KPA100 Low
> Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of turns on the toroids.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> >
> >> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
> >> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
> >> 80m - 100w
> >> 40m - 100w
> >> 20m - 80w
> >> 15m - 50w
> >> 10m - 30w
> >> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
> >> Does that sound normal?
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
I can run through some of the items you suggest. But I don’t have an external wattmeter that can measure 100 watts. I do have a QRP wattmeter.

I will start tomorrow to try and work through the question.

But to be completely accurate...you are saying that the KPA100 wattmeter (which is what I see when pressing TUNE and DISPLAY together), should read the same as the REQUESTED power (which is what the power knob sets)?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

> On Jun 28, 2020, at 8:58 PM, Eric Norris <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> 
> Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of the K2 clan learn something with every post.
>
> 73 Eric WD6DBM
>
>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki <[hidden email]> wrote:
>> Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM
>>
>> > On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>> >
>> > Mike,
>> >
>> > Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>> >
>> > On the power output variation, that is not normal.
>> > First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
>> > You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8 volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make certain all power cable connections are tight.
>> >
>> > If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.  Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that, check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>> >
>> > Using a dummy load takes away any question about your antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line wattmeter if necessary.
>> >
>> > The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack on the KPA100.
>> > Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.  It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2 only.
>> > If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of turns on the toroids.
>> >
>> > 73,
>> > Don W3FPR
>> >
>> >
>> >> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>> >> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>> >> 80m - 100w
>> >> 40m - 100w
>> >> 20m - 80w
>> >> 15m - 50w
>> >> 10m - 30w
>> >> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>> >> Does that sound normal?
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
Mike,

No, the KPA100 wattmeter will display the actual power being produced if
it is well calibrated.
That is not necessarily the same as the requested power, although with a
properly working KPA100 and a calibrated KPA100 wattmeter, the reading
should be the same.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/28/2020 9:41 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

> I can run through some of the items you suggest. But I don’t have an
> external wattmeter that can measure 100 watts. I do have a QRP wattmeter.
>
> I will start tomorrow to try and work through the question.
>
> But to be completely accurate...you are saying that the KPA100
> wattmeter (which is what I see when pressing TUNE and DISPLAY
> together), should read the same as the REQUESTED power (which is what
> the power knob sets)?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 8:58 PM, Eric Norris <[hidden email]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of
>> the K2 clan learn something with every post.
>>
>> 73 Eric WD6DBM
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki <[hidden email]
>> <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>
>>     Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>>
>>     Thanks,
>>     Mike NJ2OM
>>
>>     > On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm
>>     <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>     >
>>     > Mike,
>>     >
>>     > Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>>     >
>>     > On the power output variation, that is not normal.
>>     > First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
>>     > You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the
>>     voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8
>>     volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage
>>     shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make
>>     certain all power cable connections are tight.
>>     >
>>     > If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the
>>     KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters. 
>>     Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that,
>>     check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at
>>     least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>>     >
>>     > Using a dummy load takes away any question about your
>>     antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line
>>     wattmeter if necessary.
>>     >
>>     > The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low
>>     Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the
>>     KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no
>>     power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack
>>     on the KPA100.
>>     > Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2. 
>>     It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2
>>     only.
>>     > If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the
>>     KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of
>>     turns on the toroids.
>>     >
>>     > 73,
>>     > Don W3FPR
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>>     >> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>>     >> 80m - 100w
>>     >> 40m - 100w
>>     >> 20m - 80w
>>     >> 15m - 50w
>>     >> 10m - 30w
>>     >> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>>     >> Does that sound normal?
>>     ______________________________________________________________
>>     Elecraft mailing list
>>     Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>     Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>     Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>     <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>
>>     This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>     Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>     Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>     <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
Okay. I will go back to your first reply and run through the items you suggested.

Does the fact that on 40 and 80 meters, when I set the requested power to 100w, I actually see a little more - like 103w - but the power drops off on other bands - is that a clue to anything?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

> On Jun 28, 2020, at 10:50 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> No, the KPA100 wattmeter will display the actual power being produced if it is well calibrated.
> That is not necessarily the same as the requested power, although with a properly working KPA100 and a calibrated KPA100 wattmeter, the reading should be the same.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 6/28/2020 9:41 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>> I can run through some of the items you suggest. But I don’t have an external wattmeter that can measure 100 watts. I do have a QRP wattmeter.
>>
>> I will start tomorrow to try and work through the question.
>>
>> But to be completely accurate...you are saying that the KPA100 wattmeter (which is what I see when pressing TUNE and DISPLAY together), should read the same as the REQUESTED power (which is what the power knob sets)?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM
>>
>>>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 8:58 PM, Eric Norris <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>> Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of the K2 clan learn something with every post.
>>>
>>> 73 Eric WD6DBM
>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>>
>>>    Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>>>
>>>    Thanks,
>>>    Mike NJ2OM
>>>
>>>    > On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm
>>>    <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>>    >
>>>    > Mike,
>>>    >
>>>    > Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>>>    >
>>>    > On the power output variation, that is not normal.
>>>    > First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
>>>    > You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the
>>>    voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8
>>>    volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage
>>>    shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make
>>>    certain all power cable connections are tight.
>>>    >
>>>    > If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the
>>>    KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.
>>>    Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that,
>>>    check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at
>>>    least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>>>    >
>>>    > Using a dummy load takes away any question about your
>>>    antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line
>>>    wattmeter if necessary.
>>>    >
>>>    > The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low
>>>    Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the
>>>    KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no
>>>    power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack
>>>    on the KPA100.
>>>    > Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.
>>>    It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2
>>>    only.
>>>    > If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the
>>>    KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of
>>>    turns on the toroids.
>>>    >
>>>    > 73,
>>>    > Don W3FPR
>>>    >
>>>    >
>>>    >> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>>>    >> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>>>    >> 80m - 100w
>>>    >> 40m - 100w
>>>    >> 20m - 80w
>>>    >> 15m - 50w
>>>    >> 10m - 30w
>>>    >> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>>>    >> Does that sound normal?
>>>    ______________________________________________________________
>>>    Elecraft mailing list
>>>    Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>>    Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>    Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>    <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>>
>>>    This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>>    Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>    Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>>    <mailto:[hidden email]>
>
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
Mike,

It is not reasonable to expect a normal wattmeter to have greater than a
10% accuracy.
Consider that the spec for a Bird wattmeter is only 5% right after
calibration.
Digital wattmeters can be much more accurate, such as the LP-100 from
Telepostinc, but they are calibrated to NIST traceable standards.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/29/2020 8:50 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

> Okay. I will go back to your first reply and run through the items you suggested.
>
> Does the fact that on 40 and 80 meters, when I set the requested power to 100w, I actually see a little more - like 103w - but the power drops off on other bands - is that a clue to anything?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 10:50 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> No, the KPA100 wattmeter will display the actual power being produced if it is well calibrated.
>> That is not necessarily the same as the requested power, although with a properly working KPA100 and a calibrated KPA100 wattmeter, the reading should be the same.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>> On 6/28/2020 9:41 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>> I can run through some of the items you suggest. But I don’t have an external wattmeter that can measure 100 watts. I do have a QRP wattmeter.
>>>
>>> I will start tomorrow to try and work through the question.
>>>
>>> But to be completely accurate...you are saying that the KPA100 wattmeter (which is what I see when pressing TUNE and DISPLAY together), should read the same as the REQUESTED power (which is what the power knob sets)?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Mike NJ2OM
>>>
>>>>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 8:58 PM, Eric Norris <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of the K2 clan learn something with every post.
>>>>
>>>> 73 Eric WD6DBM
>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>>>     Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>>>>
>>>>     Thanks,
>>>>     Mike NJ2OM
>>>>
>>>>     > On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm
>>>>     <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>>>     >
>>>>     > Mike,
>>>>     >
>>>>     > Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>>>>     >
>>>>     > On the power output variation, that is not normal.
>>>>     > First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
>>>>     > You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the
>>>>     voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8
>>>>     volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage
>>>>     shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make
>>>>     certain all power cable connections are tight.
>>>>     >
>>>>     > If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the
>>>>     KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.
>>>>     Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that,
>>>>     check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at
>>>>     least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>>>>     >
>>>>     > Using a dummy load takes away any question about your
>>>>     antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line
>>>>     wattmeter if necessary.
>>>>     >
>>>>     > The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low
>>>>     Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the
>>>>     KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no
>>>>     power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack
>>>>     on the KPA100.
>>>>     > Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.
>>>>     It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2
>>>>     only.
>>>>     > If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the
>>>>     KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of
>>>>     turns on the toroids.
>>>>     >
>>>>     > 73,
>>>>     > Don W3FPR
>>>>     >
>>>>     >
>>>>     >> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>>>>     >> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>>>>     >> 80m - 100w
>>>>     >> 40m - 100w
>>>>     >> 20m - 80w
>>>>     >> 15m - 50w
>>>>     >> 10m - 30w
>>>>     >> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>>>>     >> Does that sound normal?
>>>>     ______________________________________________________________
>>>>     Elecraft mailing list
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>>>>
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
Don...

The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.

The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.

During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.

All the power connections appear to be tight.

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

> On Jun 29, 2020, at 12:45 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> It is not reasonable to expect a normal wattmeter to have greater than a 10% accuracy.
> Consider that the spec for a Bird wattmeter is only 5% right after calibration.
> Digital wattmeters can be much more accurate, such as the LP-100 from Telepostinc, but they are calibrated to NIST traceable standards.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 6/29/2020 8:50 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>> Okay. I will go back to your first reply and run through the items you suggested.
>>
>> Does the fact that on 40 and 80 meters, when I set the requested power to 100w, I actually see a little more - like 103w - but the power drops off on other bands - is that a clue to anything?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM
>>
>>>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 10:50 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> No, the KPA100 wattmeter will display the actual power being produced if it is well calibrated.
>>> That is not necessarily the same as the requested power, although with a properly working KPA100 and a calibrated KPA100 wattmeter, the reading should be the same.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>>> On 6/28/2020 9:41 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>>> I can run through some of the items you suggest. But I don’t have an external wattmeter that can measure 100 watts. I do have a QRP wattmeter.
>>>>
>>>> I will start tomorrow to try and work through the question.
>>>>
>>>> But to be completely accurate...you are saying that the KPA100 wattmeter (which is what I see when pressing TUNE and DISPLAY together), should read the same as the REQUESTED power (which is what the power knob sets)?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Mike NJ2OM
>>>>
>>>>>> On Jun 28, 2020, at 8:58 PM, Eric Norris <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Congratulations, Mike!  Please let us ALL know how it goes, as we of the K2 clan learn something with every post.
>>>>>
>>>>> 73 Eric WD6DBM
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 28, 2020, 2:12 PM Mike Kopacki <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>>>>    Well, that gives me something to do!  I’ll let you know how it goes.
>>>>>
>>>>>    Thanks,
>>>>>    Mike NJ2OM
>>>>>
>>>>>    > On Jun 28, 2020, at 4:41 PM, Don Wilhelm
>>>>>    <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > Mike,
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > Congratulations on finishing the K2/100.
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > On the power output variation, that is not normal.
>>>>>    > First check the voltage delivered to the K2 while in transmit.
>>>>>    > You should do that by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the
>>>>>    voltage display.  Your power source should provide at least 13.8
>>>>>    volts, but higher (up to 15 volts) is better.  If the voltage
>>>>>    shown by the K2 display during transmit is less than 12.6, make
>>>>>    certain all power cable connections are tight.
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > If the power supply voltage is not the problem, then remove the
>>>>>    KPA100 from the base K2 and realign the bandpass filters.
>>>>>    Connect a dummy load to the base K2 BNC ANT jack.  After that,
>>>>>    check the maximum power from the base K2 - you should have at
>>>>>    least 10 watts on each band.  Record the power for each band.
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > Using a dummy load takes away any question about your
>>>>>    antennas.  Always check into a dummy load - with an in-line
>>>>>    wattmeter if necessary.
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > The other possibility is that you have a problem in the Low
>>>>>    Pass Filter in the KPA100.  To check for that, re-install the
>>>>>    KPA100, but power the base K2 from the coaxial power jack (no
>>>>>    power to the KPA100 - connect the dummy load to the SO2339 jack
>>>>>    on the KPA100.
>>>>>    > Again check the maximum power on each band from the base K2.
>>>>>    It should be no more than 5% less than you found with the base K2
>>>>>    only.
>>>>>    > If there is a substantial difference in power, then check the
>>>>>    KPA100 Low Pass Filter - particularly checking the number of
>>>>>    turns on the toroids.
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    > 73,
>>>>>    > Don W3FPR
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    >
>>>>>    >> On 6/28/2020 4:04 PM, NJMike wrote:
>>>>>    >> I did notice a variation on the power output on different bands:
>>>>>    >> 80m - 100w
>>>>>    >> 40m - 100w
>>>>>    >> 20m - 80w
>>>>>    >> 15m - 50w
>>>>>    >> 10m - 30w
>>>>>    >> SWR was never above 1.3-1.
>>>>>    >> Does that sound normal?
>>>>>    ______________________________________________________________
>>>>>    Elecraft mailing list
>>>>>    Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>>>>    Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>>>    Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>>>    <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>>>>
>>>>>    This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>>>>    Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>>>    Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>>>>    <mailto:[hidden email]>
>
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Grant Youngman-2
The connections may be tight, but how many are there?  Are you running straight from the power supply to the radio without any intervening junction points, Rig Runners, etc.?

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Don...
>
> The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>
> The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>
> During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
>
> All the power connections appear to be tight.
>

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
In reply to this post by NJMike
Mike,

You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
voltage drop in the power cable.
Is it wired directly to the power supply?  Are all the connections
tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.

Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100. 
If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
correct it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

> Don...
>
> The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>
> The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>
> During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
>
> All the power connections appear to be tight.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
In reply to this post by Grant Youngman-2

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
Mike,

The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector -
commonly called APP.

For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and
connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for
#12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the
connectors.  The drop will be more substantial with the increased
current during transmit at 100 watts.

Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of
the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to
the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for
up to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals
onto those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from
the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

>
> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>
> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black
> connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact
> blade”?  I see nothing else on the inside.
>
> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full
> well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana
> plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly
> instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a
> solderless type that I had never seen before.  I talked to three
> people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug. 
> The third guy hung up on me.
>
> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the
> configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>
> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal
> drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V
> “substantial”?
>
> Mike NJ2OM
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:[hidden email]>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
> *To: *Mike Kopacki <mailto:[hidden email]>
> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net <mailto:[hidden email]>
> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>
> Mike,
>
> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>
> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>
> voltage drop in the power cable.
>
> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>
> tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
>
> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>
> the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
>
> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>
> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>
> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>
> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>
> correct it.
>
> 73,
>
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>
> > Don...
>
> >
>
> > The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It
> measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>
> >
>
> > The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>
> >
>
> > During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on
> the band.
>
> >
>
> > All the power connections appear to be tight.
>
> >
>
> > Thanks,
>
> > Mike NJ2OM
>
> >
>
> >
>

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

NJMike
I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings during receive and transmit.

Is it possible that the power supply is failing?

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly called APP.
>
> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 100 watts.
>
> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>
>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>
>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see nothing else on the inside.
>>
>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>>
>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>
>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V “substantial”?
>>
>> Mike NJ2OM
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>>
>> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:[hidden email]>
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
>> *To: *Mike Kopacki <mailto:[hidden email]>
>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net <mailto:[hidden email]>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>>
>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>>
>> voltage drop in the power cable.
>>
>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>>
>> tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
>>
>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>>
>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
>>
>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>>
>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>>
>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>>
>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>>
>> correct it.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>
>> > Don...
>>
>> >
>>
>> > The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > All the power connections appear to be tight.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > Thanks,
>>
>> > Mike NJ2OM
>>
>> >
>>
>> >
>>
>
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Elecraft mailing list

Maybe because as the voltage drops below 12V the PA starts to be “less pure” on the higher bands and starts sending junk to the band pass filters.  The BPF do their job and filter out the junk and what’s left in the passband to go to the wattmeter is less than rated.

I’m sure Don could explain it better in electronical terms!  ;-)

73 Marty / W4MY

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 20:34, Mike Kopacki <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings during receive and transmit.
>
> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
>
> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly called APP.
>>
>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 100 watts.
>>
>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>>
>>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>>
>>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see nothing else on the inside.
>>>
>>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>>>
>>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>>
>>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V “substantial”?
>>>
>>> Mike NJ2OM
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>>>
>>> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
>>> *To: *Mike Kopacki <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>>>
>>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>>>
>>> voltage drop in the power cable.
>>>
>>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>>>
>>> tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
>>>
>>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>>>
>>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
>>>
>>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>>>
>>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>>>
>>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>>>
>>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>>>
>>> correct it.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>>> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Don...
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> All the power connections appear to be tight.
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>> Mike NJ2OM
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
In reply to this post by NJMike
Mike,

The K2 RF gain is higher on 80, 40, and 30 meters.  It takes a bit more
drive and current on the higher bands.

Have you verified the power output of the base K2 with the KPA100
removed?  That is an important parameter to investigate.

After verifying that the base K2 is capable of putting out 10 watts or
more with the KPA100 removed, put the KPA100 back in-line and with power
only to the base K2 (no connection to the high power voltage), what is
the power output of the K2 with KPA100 - this is a test of the low pass
filters in the KPA100.  The power output should be about the same.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 8:34 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings during receive and transmit.
>
> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
>
> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Don Wilhelm
In reply to this post by NJMike
Mike,

I would expect that 12.6 volts or greater on transmit would give you
better power on the higher bands.
You do have either a power supply problem or a Power supply to K2/100
cabling problem.

Try the base K2 only tests that I posted about.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2020 8:34 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:

> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings during receive and transmit.
>
> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
>
> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly called APP.
>>
>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 100 watts.
>>
>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>>
>>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>>
>>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see nothing else on the inside.
>>>
>>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>>>
>>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>>
>>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2.  Is the difference of .2V “substantial”?
>>>
>>> Mike NJ2OM
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>>>
>>> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
>>> *To: *Mike Kopacki <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net <mailto:[hidden email]>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>>>
>>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>>>
>>> voltage drop in the power cable.
>>>
>>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>>>
>>> tight?  Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct?  Look at the end of the
>>>
>>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>>>
>>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible?  If the spring finger
>>>
>>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>>>
>>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>>>
>>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>>>
>>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>>>
>>> correct it.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>>
>>>> Don...
>>>> The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>>>> The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>>>> During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
>>>> All the power connections appear to be tight.
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Mike NJ2OM

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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

donovanf
In reply to this post by NJMike
Hi Mike,


Your email states: " The P/S output is 13.6V."


Did you measure 13.6 volts at the output of your power supply
under load when your transmitter is outputting 100 watts?


73
Frank
W3LPL

----- Original Message -----

From: "Mike Kopacki" <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2020 12:34:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review

I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings during receive and transmit.

Is it possible that the power supply is failing?

Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly called APP.
>
> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors. The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 100 watts.
>
> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 to 50 amps. Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power supply terminals? Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>
>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>
>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors that plug into the K2. I assume that is the “contact blade”? I see nothing else on the inside.
>>
>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had never seen before. I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug. The third guy hung up on me.
>>
>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>
>> The P/S output is 13.6V. I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2. If the normal drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at the K2. Is the difference of .2V “substantial”?
>>
>> Mike NJ2OM
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>>
>> *From: *Don Wilhelm <mailto:[hidden email]>
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, June 30, 2020 6:01 PM
>> *To: *Mike Kopacki <mailto:[hidden email]>
>> *Cc: *elecraft@mailman qth. net <mailto:[hidden email]>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2/100 post FD review
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> You should have only 0.3 volts drop IN the K2 itself, so given your
>>
>> display of 13.1 volts on the K2, that says you have a substantial
>>
>> voltage drop in the power cable.
>>
>> Is it wired directly to the power supply? Are all the connections
>>
>> tight? Is the APP assembly at the K2 correct? Look at the end of the
>>
>> connector - do you see only the contact blade? or can you see the end of
>>
>> the spring finger under the contact blade visible? If the spring finger
>>
>> is visible, the contact blades have not been pushed in far enough -
>>
>> apply pressure to the back to seat the connector.
>>
>> Make the same visual check on the APP connector mounted in the KPA100.
>>
>> If it needs correction, you will have to get inside the KPA100 to
>>
>> correct it.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 6/30/2020 5:32 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>
>> > Don...
>>
>> >
>>
>> > The power supply is an MFJ 13.8V/25A switching power supply. It measures 13.63V at the terminals.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > The K2 shows 13.1V in receive mode.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > During transmit on all bands, the K2 shows 11.3-11.9V, depending on the band.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > All the power connections appear to be tight.
>>
>> >
>>
>> > Thanks,
>>
>> > Mike NJ2OM
>>
>> >
>>
>> >
>>
>
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Re: K2 K2/100 post FD review

Nr4c
In reply to this post by NJMike
Watts is Volts X Amps.
Fewer Volts means more Amps. More Amps means more work for power supply, leading to fewer Volts.  Fewer Volts means ...( you get the picture).

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jun 30, 2020, at 8:37 PM, Mike Kopacki <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I didn’t have ring connectors big enough but I did have spade connectors. I crimped and soldered them but there was no change in the voltage readings during receive and transmit.
>
> Is it possible that the power supply is failing?
>
> Why, if the voltage drops during transmit to 11.6V, does the radio still put out 100W on 30, 40 and 80 meters?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM
>
>> On Jun 30, 2020, at 6:55 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> The red and black assembly is an Anderson Power Pole connector - commonly called APP.
>>
>> For the small receive current drawn, the voltage drop in the wire and connectors should be close to zero, so the 0.2 volts is significant for #12 wire unless there is something not properly tightened on the connectors.  The drop will be more substantial with the increased current during transmit at 100 watts.
>>
>> Banana plugs and jacks can be used to carry a heavy current, but some of the ones I have seen have a poor contact method of fastening the wire to the banana plugs - properly installed wires on banana plugs are good for up to 30 to 50 amps.  Is there any way you can connect ring terminals onto those power supply terminals?  Like removing the outer nuts from the terminals - if so then switch to the ring terminals.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>>> On 6/30/2020 6:21 PM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>>>
>>> Don, don’t know what you mean by the APP assembly.
>>>
>>> I can only see one metal part on the inside of the red and black connectors that plug into the K2.  I assume that is the “contact blade”?  I see nothing else on the inside.
>>>
>>> But here is a possible problem, that I will throw out, knowing full well that some will think I am not very smart…..I had to buy banana plugs to make the power cable, which is part of the KPA-100 assembly instructions. When I received them from MFJ, model MFJ-7713, it was a solderless type that I had never seen before.  I talked to three people at MFJ, none could explain how the wire attached to the plug.  The third guy hung up on me.
>>>
>>> So I connected the wire to the plug the only way I could see, but the configuration of the plug still eludes me.
>>>
>>> The P/S output is 13.6V.  I’m seeing 13.1V at the K2.  If the normal drop is .3V, it should read 13.3V at t
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