Wayne,
All that is correct EXCEPT - add to the list if your "multimeter" (which
is hopefully actually a DMM) does not have it included - a means of
measuring current draw to at least 2 amps. Many DMMs have a 10 Amp
range, so that is usable. It is needed to properly set the bias on the
KPA100.
An accurate wattmeter capable of 100 to 200 watts is handy to use, but
the DL1 will do if you calibrate the KPA100 wattmeter using the QRP
levels (up to 15 watts). I usually calibrate the wattmeter first at 10
watts, and then check it at 80 watts (my wattmeter is calibrated at 80
watts). There is little difference once you have calibrated it at 10
watts, but if you want maximum accuracy at high power, you will need the
higher power wattmeter.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/29/2011 5:39 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
> It's time to get 100W for my K2. I like the idea of having the 100W amp
> and tuner in a separate box so I can go portable by just disconnecting
> the transceiver and taking it with me, without having to switch tops.
> Here's my shopping list
>
> KPA100 K2/100 Internal Integration Kit
> KAT100-2 100W ATU with EC2 panels
> EC2 K2 Blank Project Enclosure
> ETS2 Standard Tilt Stand for the EC2
> KIO2 K2 AUX I/O RS-232 Interface
>
> Is that everything I need to order?
>
> The manuals appear to indicate that I can complete assembly and
> calibration with multimeter; my DL-1 (20W dummy load), which I can use
> as a 20W wattmeter; and a 100W dummy load I can borrow from dad. Is
> that correct?
>
>
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