K2 Sidetone

[Stewart Baker]

Although I am not really a CW man I spent a few hours in the recent BERU
contest. After a while I began to get a bit 'fed up' with the raspy sidetone,
and looked at the reflector achieve for a solution. I saw that G3SJJ had
recently done a mod that involved adding a small board to hold the components.

I was almost about to go this route but found that this method of modification
would likely get in the way of the K2DSP board that sits above it. So here is
what I did.

a) I removed C33 and L1.
b) I soldered C33 (2.2uF) in the L1 position
c) I stuck L1 to the BACK of the PCB close to C33 pads with double sided tape
d) I soldered  the (+) terminal of a 1uF capacitor to C33 (+) pad
e) The other leg of the 1uF is soldered to L1
f) The circuit is completed by soldering a 100 ohm from L1 to C33 ( -) pad

This way all components except the 2.2uF capacitor are now out of the way on the
back of the control PCB.
The improvement in sidetone quality achieved has been very noticeable.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
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[Chris G3SJJ]

Yes, I did wonder about the K2DSP. Haven't got one here, yet!  The mod
certainly makes a difference though.

Keep up the CW, Stewart!

73 Chris G3SJJ


Stewart Baker wrote:

> Although I am not really a CW man I spent a few hours in the recent BERU
> contest. After a while I began to get a bit 'fed up' with the raspy sidetone,
> and looked at the reflector achieve for a solution. I saw that G3SJJ had
> recently done a mod that involved adding a small board to hold the components.
>
> I was almost about to go this route but found that this method of modification
> would likely get in the way of the K2DSP board that sits above it. So here is
> what I did.
>
> a) I removed C33 and L1.
> b) I soldered C33 (2.2uF) in the L1 position
> c) I stuck L1 to the BACK of the PCB close to C33 pads with double sided tape
> d) I soldered  the (+) terminal of a 1uF capacitor to C33 (+) pad
> e) The other leg of the 1uF is soldered to L1
> f) The circuit is completed by soldering a 100 ohm from L1 to C33 ( -) pad
>
> This way all components except the 2.2uF capacitor are now out of the way on the
> back of the control PCB.
> The improvement in sidetone quality achieved has been very noticeable.
>
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
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[David Pratt]

Hello Chris and Stewart -
I carried out the mod to my K2 Revision A board way back in October
2000, following the instructions by WJ4P and still on the Elecraft web
site.  I have to say that following these instructions I changed the
very raspy sidetone to a near sinewave matching my preferred sidetone
frequency of 550 Hz.  I believe that Elecraft incorporated a similar mod
when they brought out the Revision B board.
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/sinewave_sidetone_mod.htm

73

David
G4DMP/G3KEP

In a recent message, G3SJJ <[hidden email]> wrote ...

>Yes, I did wonder about the K2DSP. Haven't got one here, yet!  The mod
>certainly makes a difference though.
>
>Keep up the CW, Stewart!
>
>73 Chris G3SJJ
>
>
>Stewart Baker wrote:
>> Although I am not really a CW man I spent a few hours in the recent
>>BERU  contest. After a while I began to get a bit 'fed up' with the
>>raspy sidetone,  and looked at the reflector achieve for a solution. I
>>saw that G3SJJ had  recently done a mod that involved adding a small
>>board to hold the components.
>>
>> I was almost about to go this route but found that this method of
>>modification  would likely get in the way of the K2DSP board that sits
>>above it. So here is  what I did.
>>
>> a) I removed C33 and L1.
>> b) I soldered C33 (2.2uF) in the L1 position
>> c) I stuck L1 to the BACK of the PCB close to C33 pads with double sided tape
>> d) I soldered  the (+) terminal of a 1uF capacitor to C33 (+) pad
>> e) The other leg of the 1uF is soldered to L1
>> f) The circuit is completed by soldering a 100 ohm from L1 to C33 ( -) pad
>>
>> This way all components except the 2.2uF capacitor are now out of the
>>way on the  back of the control PCB.
>> The improvement in sidetone quality achieved has been very noticeable.
>>
>> 73
>> Stewart G3RXQ

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