K2 Thermistor question

[Paul Huff-3]

The instructions for the PLL thermistor board for the K2 say that the body of
the thermistor should just touch the board.  It also cautions that the leads are
fragile and should not be bent "any more than necessary."  Near the body of my
thermistor the leads have a slight twist (clearly manufactured that way) and are
coated with a gray covering - possibly a ceramic insulation(?).  As it is, the
body of my thermistor will sit about 1/16" above the board.  Should I try to
remove the twist in the leads and this covering so that I really get the body of
the thermistor in contact with the board?  Any suggestions on how to do this
without damaging the part?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

73,
Paul - N8XMS

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Paul,

Do not distort the leads on the thermistor.  Just insert the leads as
far as they will go and solder in place.

73,
Don W3FPR

Paul Huff wrote:

> The instructions for the PLL thermistor board for the K2 say that the body of
> the thermistor should just touch the board.  It also cautions that the leads are
> fragile and should not be bent "any more than necessary."  Near the body of my
> thermistor the leads have a slight twist (clearly manufactured that way) and are
> coated with a gray covering - possibly a ceramic insulation(?).  As it is, the
> body of my thermistor will sit about 1/16" above the board.  Should I try to
> remove the twist in the leads and this covering so that I really get the body of
> the thermistor in contact with the board?  Any suggestions on how to do this
> without damaging the part?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice!
>
> 73,
> Paul - N8XMS
>  
>

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[lstavenhagen]

Speaking of the thermistor board,
I just got through with the board last night and also saw the twisted leads on the thermistor. I also followed Don's advice and just pushed it in till it stopped and soldered.

I also found I had to push a couple of the wires through flush on the solder side to make sure there was clearance between the pad and the place for the capacitor. My flush cutters couldn't remove enough of the hill for my comfort so I reheated and pushed the wire flush with the board with the iron tip.  This board will push your soldering skills to the limit for sure ;). Can't wait to install L33 and that tiny resistor....

Before I bought the kit I was kind of wondering why it cost almost $700. Now that I'm building it I see why - the level of care and detail in the packaging and instructions, etc., is just outstanding. I.e. the resistors for the RF board are all in the tape in the order in which you install them, instructions leave nothing out etc. In fact it's amazing it only costs $700 with the level of care in the kit I've seen so far.....

LS