K2 accessory installation and calibration

[Norm Havercroft]

Greetings all!

I have recently finished up building #5107 and got it on the air with no smoke (yahoo).  After spending the last week building all of the below accessories, I am ready to start installing and calibrating them.  In what order should I do the RF board mods, install and calibrate.  I have already figured out that the battery is going in last.  Any advise from those that do this a lot would be appreciated.  I want to get everything in and working so that I can make a field trip to my local marine electronics guru who has offered the use of his bench to get everything dialed in.

KAF2
KNB2
KSB2
K160RX
KAT2
KBT2
KIO2

Two errata notes: the instructions on split ring placement for KAT2 are very un-clear.  Also in KAT2, C60 and C45 are way too fat for J5 to fit.  I ended up using the small blue ones of the same value.  The recent batch of the square brick colored ones need to go on a diet.

I am also going to use the now obsolete upper transverter holes for smart charger input to the SLA (direct, no diode and resister) and a main switch12v accessory out.  I am building an LED night light.  My KX1 convinced me I can't live without it.  I found some 2.1 mm power jacks that fit nicely with just a touch of file work.  I want to fuse both lines and am curious about the re-settable fuse used in the K2.  Would this be the right part to use?

73,

N7NSD
Norm Havercroft

PS ...haven't had this much radio fun in a long time.
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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Norm,

If you are doing 'One At A Time' option installation, there is no real
dependency, you can install them in any order. I would recommend that you
first install the KNB2 and the KSB2 after that - only because the resistors
that have to be removed/replaced for the KNB2 sit under the KSB2 board.

Install the K160RX next, and while you have the heat sink removed (to
install the header and standoff) dig into the KAT2 and KBT2 kits and solder
the AUX RF and AUX 12V connectors the the RF Board.

After that, install the remaining in any order that you choose - there is no
precedent or interaction.

FB on your friends offer of his workbench, but the procedures in the manual
for transmit alignment will do the job of aligning the bandpass filters - I
don't believe the additional equipment will produce better results.

As for dial calibration and filter/BFO alignment, I recommend that you take
a look at the Dial Calibration article on my website
http://home.earthlink.net~w3fpr.  The visual display offered by the
Spectrogram program is what you need to properly set the filter passband
where you want it.  Tom Hammond has several good writings on the use of
Spectrogram - www.n0ss.net or use the links on my website.

For your battery direct connection, I recommend using the automotive ATO
fuses - you can find in-line fuseholders at you local auto parts store.  I
cannot see a need to fuse both leads, but it won't hurt anything.  Size the
fuse for the maximum rating of your charger.  The self resetting fuse used
in the K2 has too much voltage drop to use in the direct battery connection
(a SmartCharger must monitor the battery terminal voltage for proper
operation).  See my website for the method I choose for my K2.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have recently finished up building #5107 and got it on the air
> with no smoke (yahoo).  After spending the last week building all
> of the below accessories, I am ready to start installing and
> calibrating them.  In what order should I do the RF board mods,
> install and calibrate.  I have already figured out that the
> battery is going in last.  Any advise from those that do this a
> lot would be appreciated.  I want to get everything in and
> working so that I can make a field trip to my local marine
> electronics guru who has offered the use of his bench to get
> everything dialed in.
>
> KAF2
> KNB2
> KSB2
> K160RX
> KAT2
> KBT2
> KIO2
>
> Two errata notes: the instructions on split ring placement for
> KAT2 are very un-clear.  Also in KAT2, C60 and C45 are way too
> fat for J5 to fit.  I ended up using the small blue ones of the
> same value.  The recent batch of the square brick colored ones
> need to go on a diet.
>
> I am also going to use the now obsolete upper transverter holes
> for smart charger input to the SLA (direct, no diode and
> resister) and a main switch12v accessory out.  I am building an
> LED night light.  My KX1 convinced me I can't live without it.  I
> found some 2.1 mm power jacks that fit nicely with just a touch
> of file work.  I want to fuse both lines and am curious about the
> re-settable fuse used in the K2.  Would this be the right part to use?
>
> 73,
>
> N7NSD
> Norm Havercroft
>
> PS ...haven't had this much radio fun in a long time.
>

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