I think I've invented a new word: lonear, a single-operator linear. Apologies for the slip - hang on, that has connotations in British English...
And it's the linear for the TS-120V, not the TS-120S which already has 100 watts output. And it's only Tuesday. I'd better stay off writing emails for the rest of the week. Or get an email program with a spell chequer, perhaps. 73 Bob 2M0KDZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 05:37:23 -0700
Bob Nielsen <[hidden email]> wrote: > http:// > members.fortunecity.com/xe1bef/kenwood-manuals.htm Many thanks for the lead: it points to mods.dk. I'm up to my download limit with them already! I'm pretty sure it's the 120V or 130V manuals I need. They're the 10 watt versions and have the 7-pin DIN connector for the linear. The S versions don't because they're already 100 watts. 73 Bob 2M0KDZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Bob,
Much appreciated... I'll see if I can get the contrast up (or grab the bit of the PDF I want and have a go at pasting it into Paint Shop Pro or something). 73 Bob 2M0KDZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Bob Towers-3
Bob, I will email you a pdf of the TL-120 manual
Check your email Trev G3ZYY In message <[hidden email]>, Bob Towers <[hidden email]> writes >On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 05:37:23 -0700 >Bob Nielsen <[hidden email]> wrote: > >> http:// >> members.fortunecity.com/xe1bef/kenwood-manuals.htm > >Many thanks for the lead: it points to mods.dk. I'm up to my download >limit with them already! > >I'm pretty sure it's the 120V or 130V manuals I need. They're the 10 >watt versions and have the 7-pin DIN connector for the linear. The S >versions don't because they're already 100 watts. > >73 > >Bob >2M0KDZ >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Trevor Day UKSMG #217 www.uksmg.org _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
> > I don't actually own one Bob but I have taken a look at the cct. I > would think that the MK line is probably (Manual Keying) by applying an > earth at this point. RL is keying the relay via a transistor switch, > probably for those radios that have a solid state keying line that can't > handle the relay current directly. I have enclosed a copy of the TS130V > manual below which covers linear connecting. It could have done with a > diagram for clarity, but the text indicates that pin 4 of the radio goes > to ground on TX. This fits with the MK line on pin 4 of the linear. > > Hope this helps, > Trev > I've blown up the appropriate part of the TL-120 circuit diagram... The RL line goes to the base of Q10, which is the switching transistor. It's possible that connecting MK to RL will cause Q10 to conduct and effectively earth RL-1 and switch it on. I think for safety's sake, I'll put a resistor between MK and RL: I don't want to blow Q10. Eathing MK (pin 4) will switch RL-1 on, too I'll have a trial run - MK to earth - and then see if I can do something with RL via COM1/CTS/RTS + optoisolator, which would be a much more elegant solution. 73 Bob 2M0KDZ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Trevor Day
Trev,
Well, I got the linear working OK, at least on digital modes which are 99% of my QSOs. I'm switching it on and off via the COM1 port and an opto-isolator. The opto-isolator switches the base to collector connection (12K resistor in series) of the switching transistor in the main relay circuit of the TL-120. I could have just grounded the bottom end of the main relay (~40mA current, well within the 4N25 opto-isolator limits), but I reckoned the final solution was the more elegant. K2 minimum drive (~0.1W indicated) gives me 30W from the TL-120 at the ATU. It'll run 50 watts RTTY without the fan coming on. Thanks again and 73 Bob 2M0KDZ PS Now for SSB.... _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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