K2 build C71 and C174

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K2 build C71 and C174

John Wiener
VA3IMO wrote having difficulty with finding C71 and C174.

I had the same problem.
In my kit the 82 pF were labeled as "820" but the manual lists them  
as labeled "82".

The same thing occurred with C122, a 56 pF, labeled as "560" but  
manual lists as "56"
I don't recall the part number but I think there was also a "561"  
labeled cap...I had to do some resoldering once I found out.

Hope that served as a heads up.

BTW, if you're about to head into the toroid winding section, don't  
sweat it.  I found it to be fairly easy going.  Not everyone's cup of  
tea but really not bad at all.

Have a GREAT time! and good luck.

John
AB8O
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RE: K2 build C71 and C174

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
VA3IMO wrote having difficulty with finding C71 and C174.

I had the same problem.
In my kit the 82 pF were labeled as "820" but the manual lists them  
as labeled "82".

The same thing occurred with C122, a 56 pF, labeled as "560" but  
manual lists as "56"
I don't recall the part number but I think there was also a "561"  
labeled cap...I had to do some resoldering once I found out...
John
AB8O
_______________________________________________

What's happening is that some capacitors are labeled with their actual
value, e.g. "82" for 82 pF. Others are labeled with the numeric equivalent
of a color code, including a multiplier. On those an 82 pF cap would be
"820" meaning 82 and a multiplier of zero just as an 82 ohm resistor would
be coded gray-red-black for "820" = 82 ohms.

How the parts are marked may change during the life of a kit as new stocks
are purchased, and a new marking may not be picked up in the manual.

That's why it's nice to have a DMM with capacitance measuring capability to
check caps below .001uFd. Lacking that, doing a complete inventory will
uncover these issues before they are soldered into the wrong positions. I
recommend taping the parts to cards or sheets of paper as they are
identified, each part marked with the proper reference designator next to it
on the page. That way you will find any discrepancies very quickly. And
during the build it acts as another check to ensure all the right parts go
in the right places.

Ron AC7AC

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RE: K2 build C71 and C174

Darwin, Keith
 

-----Original Message-----

..doing a complete inventory will uncover these issues before they are
soldered into the wrong positions.

------------------------

I did not do an inventory - until I got the caps section.  Sheesh, there
are so many and it is hard to tell which ones are which.

I made little piles on my overly-big static mat, putting them is order
of value.  I started not being able to find some caps.  Once the
inventory was done I discovered the ones I couldn't find were there but
were labeled differently than I expected.  Figured it out once I had
sorted everything out and was able to deduce, by process of elimination,
based on quantity and marking.  In the process I did find a couple of
others that were missing which I was able to backfill from my spares
pile.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
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RE: K2 build C71 and C174

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Dan, WG4S, picked up on a mis-statement in the message below about the color
code. It think it's worth repeating here.

He pointed out that calling the last color or digit a multiplier is
incorrect. Multiplying any value by zero results in zero!

He's perfectly right.

What I should have said was that the last color or number indicates the
number of zeros following the value. So 820 means 82 followed by zero zeros
= 82 pF. A value of 821 would mean 82 followed by one zero = 820 pF and so
on, just like resistor color codes.

Tnx Dan!  

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----


VA3IMO wrote having difficulty with finding C71 and C174.

I had the same problem.
In my kit the 82 pF were labeled as "820" but the manual lists them  
as labeled "82".

The same thing occurred with C122, a 56 pF, labeled as "560" but  
manual lists as "56"
I don't recall the part number but I think there was also a "561"  
labeled cap...I had to do some resoldering once I found out... John AB8O
_______________________________________________

What's happening is that some capacitors are labeled with their actual
value, e.g. "82" for 82 pF. Others are labeled with the numeric equivalent
of a color code, including a multiplier. On those an 82 pF cap would be
"820" meaning 82 and a multiplier of zero just as an 82 ohm resistor would
be coded gray-red-black for "820" = 82 ohms.

How the parts are marked may change during the life of a kit as new stocks
are purchased, and a new marking may not be picked up in the manual.

That's why it's nice to have a DMM with capacitance measuring capability to
check caps below .001uFd. Lacking that, doing a complete inventory will
uncover these issues before they are soldered into the wrong positions. I
recommend taping the parts to cards or sheets of paper as they are
identified, each part marked with the proper reference designator next to it
on the page. That way you will find any discrepancies very quickly. And
during the build it acts as another check to ensure all the right parts go
in the right places.

Ron AC7AC

_

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