K2 build question
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Ladies and Gents,
I am in the process of mounting the crystals on my K2 RF board (Page 54 of the manual). I'm having difficulty in getting a good solder joint on the grounding wires for crystals 7 - 11, the ones that are to be grounded on the sides of their cases, rather than the tops. If I were to do it over, I'd solder the wires to the cases before installing the crystals on the board, but it's too late for that now. Are there any tricks to attaching the grounding wires? Thanks es 73, Tim - KX3H _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Tim,
First, use a small flat screwdriver or similar tool to form the wires adjacent to the crystal case - the wire and the crystal should be in contact with each other before you start soldering. The crystal cases wick away the heat from the iron quickly. Use a larger tip if you have one and turn the heat on your soldering station up to 800 deg F. Lay as much area of the tip as you can against the crystal case and melt a small amount of solder between the iron tip and the crystal case - then position your solder on the crystal case near the point where the iron and wire contact the crystal (but not right on either the iron or the wire). When the solder melts, the crystal can should be hot enough. A bit of flux should run out of your solder - pass the iron tip over the area where you just added the flux and it should be done. All those steps should take 3 to 4 seconds if your soldering tip is big enough and the heat is high enough. If not, let the crystal can cool and try again - too low heat for a long period of time can create damage, where a higher heat for a short period will not cause damage. 73, Don W3FPR Tim wrote: > Ladies and Gents, > > I am in the process of mounting the crystals on my K2 RF board (Page 54 of the manual). I'm having difficulty in getting a good solder joint on the grounding wires for crystals 7 - 11, the ones that are to be grounded on the sides of their cases, rather than the tops. If I were to do it over, I'd solder the wires to the cases before installing the crystals on the board, but it's too late for that now. Are there any tricks to attaching the grounding wires? > > Thanks es 73, > > Tim - KX3H > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.2.0/1497 - Release Date: 6/11/2008 8:32 AM > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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On Wed, Jun 11, 2008 at 10:00 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
> adjacent to the crystal case - the wire and the crystal should be in contact > with each other before you start soldering. > > The crystal cases wick away the heat from the iron quickly. > Use a larger tip if you have one and turn the heat on your soldering station Don has covered the important bits, my two cents is to be mention that I use a piece of vinyl (i.e. black electrical) tape to hold the wire against the crystal case while soldering. Also very gentle rubbing of the crystal case to remove oxidation with sandpaper can make a small improvement. Ensure your iron tip is clean and tinned by adding a small amount of solder to the tip itself, and wiping away the excess, this cleans via the flux, to help it transfer the iron's heat as best you can. -Michael, VE3TIX _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by TimK2
I second Don's comments but noticed he missed cleaning the crystal first with good Isoprohal alcohol (not that cheap Mad Dog 2020 either). Even the slightest oil from your fingers will make the task harder that it should be. Don't forget to clean of the remaining flux when your done! It makes the build look a lot better and flux will corrode over time. 73 Mike AB0TX...._______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Mike and all,
Flux residue will do no harm except under quite unusual circumstances and it is best left as-is. The greatest 'problem' is one of aesthetics. Attempts to remove flux can result in damage to components - the cleaner can get into relays, inductors and cause much more harm that. For that reason, Elecraft strongly recommends that flux *not* be removed. If you feel you must do flux removal, do not flood the board or even spray it. Work in small areas at a time with Q-tips or something similar. If your solder has a mildly reactive flux, and you do not apply excess solder, there is no need to remove any of the flux - the board will look clean. I would suggest that if you have excessive flux residue on your board, then you likely have too much solder applied as well. It would be better to wick away the excess solder than to clean off the flux - the excess solder can create solder bridges and can hide a connection that did not receive enough heat. 73, Don W3FPR Michael Harvey wrote: > I second Don's comments but noticed he missed cleaning the crystal first with good Isoprohal alcohol (not that cheap Mad Dog 2020 either). Even the slightest oil from your fingers will make the task harder that it should be. Don't forget to clean of the remaining flux when your done! It makes the build look a lot better and flux will corrode over time. 73 > > Mike > AB0TX...._______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I can agree with that, Don, but rarely have I seen anyone clean the component side of the board. Since the crystals are on that side, and they were described as being soldered prior to installation, I saw no harm in recommending cleaning the flux off. I don't remember any relays located around the crystals. Just a torid that it may effect if excessive alcohol is used.> Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 13:14:37 -0400> From: [hidden email]> To: [hidden email]> CC: [hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build question> > Mike and all,> > Flux residue will do no harm except under quite unusual circumstances > and it is best left as-is. The greatest 'problem' is one of aesthetics.> Attempts to remove flux can result in damage to components - the cleaner > can get into relays, inductors and cause much more harm that. For that > reason, Elecraft strongly recommends that flux *not* be removed. If you > feel you must do flux removal, do not flood the board or even spray it. > Work in small areas at a time with Q-tips or something similar.> > If your solder has a mildly reactive flux, and you do not apply excess > solder, there is no need to remove any of the flux - the board will look > clean. I would suggest that if you have excessive flux residue on your > board, then you likely have too much solder applied as well. It would > be better to wick away the excess solder than to clean off the flux - > the excess solder can create solder bridges and can hide a connection > that did not receive enough heat.> > 73,> Don W3FPR> > Michael Harvey wrote:> > I second Don's comments but noticed he missed cleaning the crystal first with good Isoprohal alcohol (not that cheap Mad Dog 2020 either). Even the slightest oil from your fingers will make the task harder that it should be. Don't forget to clean of the remaining flux when your done! It makes the build look a lot better and flux will corrode over time. 73> > > > Mike> > AB0TX...._______________________________________________> > > >_______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Mike,
It is not necessary to clean the component side to get nasty stuff in the components. If one floods or sprays the board, some of the cleaner can and will wick to the component side through the via holes and other openings. Having a mixture of flux and cleaner coated all over everything can create a worse mess than what one started with - alcohol attracts water out of the air, and the combination of moisture trapped with flux residue can indeed create problems down the road. That being said, and before someone asks, yes I sometimes do clean the flux off, particularly in an area that has received a lot of rework and the buildup really gets nasty. On some of the boards that have been sent to me for repair, there is so much excess solder and flux residue that I have no choice but to first get out my Hakko 808 and suck off much of the solder, then clean the board and re-solder everything. That is the extreme, but it does happen. The problem seems to be that some builders go back to the old days when soldering tube sockets with a soldering gun and applying lots of solder was the way to do it, but those days are gone and different techniques must be used - with thru-plated holes, just enough solder to fill the hole is sufficient. Check out the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if you have any questions about what a good solder connection should look like. I cannot judge everyone's experience or skill level, so I must make suggestions for the lowest common denominator - If you know what you are doing, work carefully, and observe the precautions, then you can remove flux, but if not, either avoid it or gain experience on something inexpensive rather than your new K2. 73, Don W3FPR Michael Harvey wrote: > I can agree with that, Don, but rarely have I seen anyone clean the component side of the board. Since the crystals are on that side, and they were described as being soldered prior to installation, I saw no harm in recommending cleaning the flux off. I don't remember any relays located around the crystals. Just a torid that it may effect if excessive alcohol is used. > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Michael Harvey
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
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Re: Solder Size and Flux (WAS: K2 build question)
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Ron,
You are completely right. I encourage the use of smaller diameter solders - it is easier than using solder that is too large. The eutectic alloys (63/37) are also a great help in eliminating 'cold solder' connections when the work moves just as the solder is cooling. I know you have good control and lots of soldering skills. Anyone who can solder on-board a moving ship in the middle of a storm deserves a lot of credit for those hard-earned skills. I have also heard that Lyle Johnson uses 0.031 solder on SMD, but I know I would make a mess of SMD with that diameter. I keep the 0.031 only for soldering antenna wires and work mostly with 0.015 for thru-hole construction. For fine pitch SMD stuff, I go to the 0.010 roll I have just for that purpose - yes it is like soldering with hair. With those diameters, I can easily control the amount of solder being applied. 73, Don W3FPR Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > One of ways builders get excess flux on the joints is by using too-large > diameter solder. Such solders tend to release more flux per unit of solder > than smaller-diameter solders. > > The biggest solder I use on through-hole work is 0.031" diameter, and I have > 0.015" solder for small work. > > Ron AC7AC > > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm > Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 10:15 AM > To: Michael Harvey > Cc: [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 build question > > > Mike and all, > > Flux residue will do no harm except under quite unusual circumstances > and it is best left as-is. The greatest 'problem' is one of aesthetics. > Attempts to remove flux can result in damage to components - the cleaner > can get into relays, inductors and cause much more harm that. For that > reason, Elecraft strongly recommends that flux *not* be removed. If you > feel you must do flux removal, do not flood the board or even spray it. > Work in small areas at a time with Q-tips or something similar. > > If your solder has a mildly reactive flux, and you do not apply excess > solder, there is no need to remove any of the flux - the board will look > clean. I would suggest that if you have excessive flux residue on your > board, then you likely have too much solder applied as well. It would > be better to wick away the excess solder than to clean off the flux - > the excess solder can create solder bridges and can hide a connection > that did not receive enough heat. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 7:13 AM > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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>The eutectic alloys (63/37) You don't hear much about them, but even Radio Shack sells them in two different diameters. 63/37 is all I've ever used. Minimal plastic transition region when cooling. Paul N4LCD _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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