K2 first power-up
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Hi all,
Just thought I'd report I unexpectedly ended up at the first power-up in the build last night. Build is going faster and smoother than I thought it would, hi hi, and next thing I knew I was plugging the front panel and control boards into the RF board. Went exactly as it was supposed to according to the manual, so next step is the initial calibration steps. I don't even have my old bencher paddle wired up yet as I didn't think I'd be here so fast (I'm long, long inactive and just been an SWL for the last few years. my RX code speed has dropped to under 20wpm and sending is far worse than that right now). BTW, thanks to all who responded to my previous query about the additional options. Some unexpected expenses for other things just cropped up so I'm forgoing the 100W option. But the noise blanker I can still afford so I'll add that afterwards. My goal now is just to complete the base rig. The worst part seems to be coming up with the RX and then TX assembly, the only thing I'm dreading is grounding those crystal cans (the two on the control board were a real fight and I'm hoping I didn't already cook those two crystals). But I've read the tech. articles on the site about alternative ways to approach that and they've given me some good ideas on how to do that. The toroid winding doesn't look too bad - I hope those aren't super-critical as far as spacing of the turns, etc.? LS W5QD |
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LS,
On grounding the crystals - use a high heat (800 deg F) on the iron to heat the crystal can quickly, use a large tip if possible. Put a large flat area of the iron on the side of the crystal can to aid heat transfer. The key is to heat the crystal can as quickly as possible - long heat-soaking is what damages components more so than high temperatures. As for the toroids, make a couple trial windings (Elecraft supplies extra wire). To produce nice tight windings, smooth the wire around the *outside* of the core rather than trying to pull it tight - it is impossible to pull the wire tight once it rounds a corner of the core. You can space the turns neatly after you complete the winding. Remember to count the turns correctly - each time the wire passes through the center of the core is one turn. A straight wire through the center is one turn, a complete wrap around the core is 2 turns. The most critical thing in winding the toroids is the number of turns. 73, Don W3FPR lstavenhagen wrote: > The worst part seems to be coming up with the RX and then TX assembly, the > only thing I'm dreading is grounding those crystal cans (the two on the > control board were a real fight and I'm hoping I didn't already cook those > two crystals). But I've read the tech. articles on the site about > alternative ways to approach that and they've given me some good ideas on > how to do that. > > The toroid winding doesn't look too bad - I hope those aren't super-critical > as far as spacing of the turns, etc.? > > LS > W5QD > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Ok, thanks Don. I have some 1/16" tips for my soldering station so Ill use one of those for when I get to the cans. They're also 700F but hopefully the larger size will do the job quickly. Probably should have used the big tip for the ones on the control board. Oh well, I'll find out this eve. I guess if I cooked those crystals when I get to the smoke test of the 4mhz oscillator. I remember counting to 3 on those attempts and lifting the iron after that even when the attempt wasn't successful. Fingers crossed, hi.
Also, my tips are magnetized because it's the WTCPT station that uses the magnets for the temp control. That would immediately suck up the wires, hi hi. I think I'll solder the wires to the board first, that was the only way I could get them done on the control board. Ah thanks for the tip on the toroids... cut/pasted/saved... 73, LS W5QD |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
Don Wilhelm wrote:
> LS, > > On grounding the crystals - use a high heat (800 deg F) on the iron to > heat the crystal can quickly, use a large tip if possible. Put a large > flat area of the iron on the side of the crystal can to aid heat > transfer. The key is to heat the crystal can as quickly as possible - > long heat-soaking is what damages components more so than high temperatures. I find that it also helps to roughen up the spot on the crystal that you are going to solder to with a bit of fine emery paper first. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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