Gary Surrency must be the most patient person on the earth. He just
emailed me twice within 1/2 hour of my questions. I can now report that I HAVE LCD READOUT! I had to replace all electrolytics on the Control Board to find my error. I found that I soldered C45 (on the bottom of the board) across pads of U6 instead of U8. I missed it on several rechecks because it was new and not listed on parts placement diagrams in the back of the manual. I want to thank everyone who has helped me so far...Don Wilhelm comes to mind. Also, thanks to N0SS for pix of circuit boards. Now, I have a question (of course). My first resolder job was C13 on Control Board was, naturally, the worst. On replacing the cap, I note that the pad is damaged on the negative lead. I soldered over to an undamaged part (I hope successfully). My question: is the negative lead supposed to be directly to ground? (perhaps soldered on the top of the board) I get about a meg of resistance between the lead and ground. Is this a problem? Now to build the RF probe. By the way, I am now a ham again ... after a hiatus of over 30 years. I just passed levels 1 thru 4 in one sitting over the weekend. I didn't expect to pass the Extra but I studied like hell. The ARRL books are fantastic. Couldn't have done it w/o them. So, I'll be able to use a new call sign within a few weeks! John _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
John,
Yes, 1 megohm of resistance to ground for the negative side of Ctrl Bd C13 is a problem, and yes it should be connected to ground. If you have damaged the through-plated hole during your removal techniques, you should connect the lead to ground somewhere on the back of the Control Board - adding a wire to the center leg of the 8 volt regulator would be a good way to do it - because soldering the capacitor on the component side of the board would be most difficult - that capacitor will be responding to lower frequency noise rather than HF, so a moderate length added wire should work just fine. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > ... > Now, I have a question (of course). > My first resolder job was C13 on Control Board was, naturally, the > worst. On replacing the cap, I note that the pad is damaged on the > negative lead. I soldered over to an undamaged part (I hope > successfully). > > My question: is the negative lead supposed to be directly to ground? > (perhaps soldered on the top of the board) I get about a meg of > resistance between the lead and ground. > Is this a problem? > ... > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by John Wiener
> Gary Surrency must be the most patient person on the earth.
I'll second that. He and I have been going back and forth about the low audio problem with s/n 3641 for a month now. He's helped me find a bad cap in the AGC circuit, some questionable stuff in the BFO, and we're narrowing down a problem in the AF amp. I'm about to give in, though. I'm more interested in getting on the air than fixing this myself... Thanks, Gary. 73 de chris K6DBG _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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