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K2 led diffuser

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Arie Kleingeld PA3A

K2 led diffuser

I'm building K2 # 3612 . Question about the led diffuser.

The back side has a thick foil. The front side is much more thinner, a milky
thin foil which is a bit loose from the glass.
Is it right to leave the thin foil on there, or should it be taken off. I'm
not sure.

Thanks in advance.

73,
Arie PA3A
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Masleid, Michael A.-2

RE: K2 led diffuser

Hello Arie

My K2 was a few serial numbers before yours.

The layers in my kit were:

The LCD:

Polarizer (remove this and it is ruined)
Glass
Liquid Crystal stuff
Glass substrate with lots of pins
Transflective Layer (looks a bit like metal foil - don't mess with it)

The Back Light:

Thin milky film half stuck to clear plastic diffuser, kind of wrinkled
Clear plastic diffuser with LEDs stuck to it
Thick white material (not attached well, but it is important to leave it on there)

I tried to straighten out the milky film but it only got worse, so I
decided to leave it off. My guess is that it might help even out the light
if you leave it on, but I didn't want to look at the wrinkles forever.
I figure it was in there to prevent scratches - but I could be wrong.
I wonder how many encountered this?

Michael, AB9GV

>I'm building K2 # 3612 . Question about the led diffuser.

>The back side has a thick foil. The front side is much more thinner, a milky
>thin foil which is a bit loose from the glass.
>Is it right to leave the thin foil on there, or should it be taken off. I'm
>not sure.
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Bob Nielsen

Re: K2 led diffuser

On Jul 7, 2006, at 1:02 PM, Masleid, Michael A. wrote:

> Hello Arie
>
> My K2 was a few serial numbers before yours.
>
> The layers in my kit were:
>
> The LCD:
>
> Polarizer (remove this and it is ruined)
> Glass
> Liquid Crystal stuff
> Glass substrate with lots of pins
> Transflective Layer (looks a bit like metal foil - don't mess with it)

<remainder snipped>

I recall that there is a very thin plastic sheet over the polarizer.
It was a bit hard to tell and I inadvertently removed the polarizer
(I'm sure I'm not the only one). I ordered another but stuck it back
on so I could continue until the new one arrived. The old one is
still working fine 3+ years later, but I have a spare if I ever need it.

73 - Bob, N7XY
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Arie Kleingeld PA3A

Front panel knobs

In reply to this post by Arie Kleingeld PA3A

After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again.
Ran into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.

Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft and
pushing it down gently (as in the manual), one the pots went through the
270 dgs-stop.
It is still OK if I check it with a meter and the stops are still there.
But.... the knob is not in the right postion yet. It's at the right height
obove the frontpanel, but I have to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get
it in the right position.

I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could run the pot
past the stop again.
Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?

73
Arie PA3A

PS : Thanks for the suggestions on the backlight of the display yesterday.
Gave good confidence when placing and soldering that component.
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Don Wilhelm-3

RE: Front panel knobs

Arie,

I have never seen this problem, but the setscrews may not have been
adequately loosened when the knob was put over the shaft initially.

The other potential thing could be a burr of some kind on the inside of the
knob. Should you find one like that, I would suggest turning a twist drill
inside the hole in the knob before attempting to attach it to the pot shaft.

I do not know how to recover from your current situation without possibly
damaging the pot. If I were doing it, I would order a new pot and after
that attempt to remove the knob in any way that works (including destroying
the old pot) - I might order a new knob too just in case I could get the old
one off without damage

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again.
> Ran into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.
>
> Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft and
> pushing it down gently (as in the manual), one the pots went through the
> 270 dgs-stop.
> It is still OK if I check it with a meter and the stops are still there.
> But.... the knob is not in the right postion yet. It's at the right height
> obove the frontpanel, but I have to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get
> it in the right position.
>
> I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could
> run the pot
> past the stop again.
> Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?
>
>

Ron D'Eau Claire-2

RE: Front panel knobs

Several years ago this was a frequent issue with K2s. On some units the
knobs were a very tight fit. My SN 1289 built in 2000 was one of those. I
got the knobs on mine okay, but some people damaged their pots installing
the knobs. Others resorted to sanding or filing the shafts to fit.

I don't recall what the "fix" was, but the problem seemed to go away.

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:32 AM
To: Arie Kleingeld PA3A; [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs

Arie,

I have never seen this problem, but the setscrews may not have been
adequately loosened when the knob was put over the shaft initially.

The other potential thing could be a burr of some kind on the inside of the
knob. Should you find one like that, I would suggest turning a twist drill
inside the hole in the knob before attempting to attach it to the pot shaft.

I do not know how to recover from your current situation without possibly
damaging the pot. If I were doing it, I would order a new pot and after
that attempt to remove the knob in any way that works (including destroying
the old pot) - I might order a new knob too just in case I could get the old
one off without damage

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again. Ran
> into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.
>
> Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft
> and pushing it down gently (as in the manual), one the pots went
> through the 270 dgs-stop. It is still OK if I check it with a meter
> and the stops are still there. But.... the knob is not in the right
> postion yet. It's at the right height obove the frontpanel, but I have
> to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get it in the right position.
>
> I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could run
> the pot past the stop again.
> Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?
>
>

peter gerba

RE: Front panel knobs

I had to use a reamer on several tight ones .. K2 2001 vintage.

pete kn6bi

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]]On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:41 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs

Several years ago this was a frequent issue with K2s. On some units the
knobs were a very tight fit. My SN 1289 built in 2000 was one of those. I
got the knobs on mine okay, but some people damaged their pots installing
the knobs. Others resorted to sanding or filing the shafts to fit.

I don't recall what the "fix" was, but the problem seemed to go away.

Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:32 AM
To: Arie Kleingeld PA3A; [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs

Arie,

I have never seen this problem, but the setscrews may not have been
adequately loosened when the knob was put over the shaft initially.

The other potential thing could be a burr of some kind on the inside of the
knob. Should you find one like that, I would suggest turning a twist drill
inside the hole in the knob before attempting to attach it to the pot shaft.

I do not know how to recover from your current situation without possibly
damaging the pot. If I were doing it, I would order a new pot and after
that attempt to remove the knob in any way that works (including destroying
the old pot) - I might order a new knob too just in case I could get the old
one off without damage

73,
Don W3FPR

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