K2-no power output
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I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out OK. I also have the KAT2 installed and it "was" working.
I was going to operate today for the first time but when pressing TUNE, I'm not getting any power out. I have an external watt meter too. When I press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 on the left side , then displays Lo P. I've changed bands and frequency's up & down but do not here the relays in the antenna tuner "clicking" as before. I went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here each individual relay "click" just as I did when first testing the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it isn't a problem with the antenna. The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power which I did in steps up to 15 watts with no change. ???????? Am I missing a setting or does the KDSP2 board have something to do with this. I believe I installed the top cover correctly and have all the wires connected after installing the DSP boards. Any suggestions ? THANKS.........Gary WD8ICX _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Are you by any chance in "TEST" mode??
If so the "c" and the underline on the display will be blinking and you'll get no power output. Hold the MODE button to return to normal operation. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out OK. I also have the KAT2 installed and it "was" working. I was going to operate today for the first time but when pressing TUNE, I'm not getting any power out. I have an external watt meter too. When I press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 on the left side , then displays Lo P. I've changed bands and frequency's up & down but do not here the relays in the antenna tuner "clicking" as before. I went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here each individual relay "click" just as I did when first testing the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it isn't a problem with the antenna. The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power which I did in steps up to 15 watts with no change. ???????? Am I missing a setting or does the KDSP2 board have something to do with this. I believe I installed the top cover correctly and have all the wires connected after installing the DSP boards. Any suggestions ? THANKS.........Gary WD8ICX _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Gary Marks
Gary,
This problem has nothing to do directly with the installation of the KDSP2. Think of whatever else you may have accidently touched - the KAT2 cables are a relevant example. Remove the KAT2 and feed the K2 directly into a 50 ohm dummy load - when you press TUNE you should see the output power displayed (and it will be accurate if you have a good 50 ohm dummy load). That will tell you if the K2 is capable of producing the required power output. If you do see the proper power output with the ATU disconnected, look for the problem with the ATU. Check your K2 to KAT2 coaxial cable carefully to be certain the pins are properly seated and the wires for the coax are not broken at either end - sometimes they will break with a bit of flexing if they are not properly soldered. If you get no output with the ATU disconnected, then prepare yourself for the Transmit Signal Tracing that is detailed in the Troubleshooting section of the manual. You will need the RF Probe assembled (or an oscilloscope with a 10X probe) for that testing. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > > I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out > OK. I also have the KAT2 installed and it "was" working. > > I was going to operate today for the first time but when > pressing TUNE, I'm not getting any power out. I have an external > watt meter too. When I press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of > the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 on the left side , then > displays Lo P. I've changed bands and frequency's up & down but > do not here the relays in the antenna tuner "clicking" as before. > I went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here > each individual relay "click" just as I did when first testing > the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which > is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it > isn't a problem with the antenna. > > The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power > which I did in steps up to 15 watts with no change. ???????? Am > I missing a setting or does the KDSP2 board have something to do > with this. I believe I installed the top cover correctly and have > all the wires connected after installing the DSP boards. > > Any suggestions ? > > THANKS.........Gary WD8ICX > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Sorry that is not a directly K2 related question, but this list has more ham
brains located in one place than any other place I know. I have always appreciated the help I have found here from the members. I am running a RIGblaster Pro with my K2. Under QRP conditions, I have no problems. However, on 40m & 80m QRO with an external amp, I am finding that I am getting serious RF getting back into the rigblaster. I have isolated it to the rigblaster's microphone cable that connects the K2 to the rigblaster. I am certain this is the path of the RF because I can replace the rigblaster mic cable with the K2s regular microphone and use its PTT and couple the sound from my headphones into the mic and get transmit without the RF crap on output. My question is this. What is the best way to eliminate the RF on the rigblaster's mic cable? Would several ferrite beads do the job? Anyone else ever have this problem or have suggestions? 73, Bill Allen WA5PB _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Bill,
The very best way to combat RF Feedback is to eliminate it at its source - the antenna. Balanced resonant antennas with a balun at the feedpoint usually are no problem. Balanced fed non-resonant antennas with careful consideration to the run of the parallel feedline away from the antenna are not usually a problem either. Offcenter fed antennas and end fed wires are difficult to tame, as are balanced antennas having a high impedance feedpoint at the shack end of the feedline. Vertiacal with an adequate ground system are usually tame, but verticals with an inadequate ground or resonant ground plane suffer from the same RF-in-the-shack problems as end fed wires. All that being said, one can experiment with counterpoise wires at the shack end to determine if the RF is really the problem. Cut a quarterwavelength wire for the band to be tested and attach one end to the tuner or amplifier ground - the far end is open circuit, just like the end of an antenna - it will contain high RF Voltages, so be certain it is in the clear and out of contact range of humans and pets. If the counterpoise wire solves the problem, it can be used permanently, or one can vow to solve the real problem in the antenna system. In addition to considerations at the antenna system, be certain the mic jack is grounded, and be certain a shielded cable is used between the RigBlaster and the transceiver - that may or may not help. Often grounding only one end of the cable shield will help - experiment to determine which end is more effective, but usually the end connected to the transceiver is the one to ground. Be certain you have not negated the ground isolation between the computer and the transceiver with your connections to the RigBlaster - there are many 'sneak' ground paths that can exist, do not ignore any of them. If you extend the transceiver ground area to other cables and the computer that is just more area for stray RF to impinge upon and cause trouble. Suspect everything until it can be eliminated from th esuspect list. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > Sorry that is not a directly K2 related question, but this list > has more ham > brains located in one place than any other place I know. I have always > appreciated the help I have found here from the members. > > I am running a RIGblaster Pro with my K2. Under QRP conditions, I have no > problems. However, on 40m & 80m QRO with an external amp, I am > finding that > I am getting serious RF getting back into the rigblaster. I have isolated > it to the rigblaster's microphone cable that connects the K2 to the > rigblaster. I am certain this is the path of the RF because I can replace > the rigblaster mic cable with the K2s regular microphone and use > its PTT and > couple the sound from my headphones into the mic and get transmit without > the RF crap on output. My question is this. What is the best way to > eliminate the RF on the rigblaster's mic cable? Would several > ferrite beads > do the job? Anyone else ever have this problem or have suggestions? > > 73, Bill Allen WA5PB > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Don,
I can't find any problems with the KAT2 cables. I removed the KAT2 from the rig by disconnecting the coax at P6 and the 10-pin connector. Using the BNC connector marked ANTENNA, I've connected my dummy load.I set the power level at 5 watts and pressed TUNE and only see an output of 0.2 watts. I've read the prep for signal tracing and am not exactly sure about the jumpers at J9 & J10. I'm guessing the two jumpers go from pin 1 to pin 3 ? Correct ? Also, I no longer have C167 (.001 or "102") and would have to get one next week. I do have a .001 "disc" cap available. Would that work ? Gary > Gary, > > This problem has nothing to do directly with the installation of the > KDSP2. > Think of whatever else you may have accidently touched - the KAT2 cables > are > a relevant example. > > Remove the KAT2 and feed the K2 directly into a 50 ohm dummy load - when > you > press TUNE you should see the output power displayed (and it will be > accurate if you have a good 50 ohm dummy load). That will tell you if the > K2 is capable of producing the required power output. > > If you do see the proper power output with the ATU disconnected, look for > the problem with the ATU. Check your K2 to KAT2 coaxial cable carefully > to > be certain the pins are properly seated and the wires for the coax are not > broken at either end - sometimes they will break with a bit of flexing if > they are not properly soldered. > > If you get no output with the ATU disconnected, then prepare yourself for > the Transmit Signal Tracing that is detailed in the Troubleshooting > section > of the manual. You will need the RF Probe assembled (or an oscilloscope > with a 10X probe) for that testing. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > >> -----Original Message----- >> >> I just finished installing the KDPS2 boards and they check out >> OK. I also have the KAT2 installed and it "was" working. >> >> I was going to operate today for the first time but when >> pressing TUNE, I'm not getting any power out. I have an external >> watt meter too. When I press TUNE, I see Atu on the right side of >> the LCD then it quickly flashes to 1.0-1 on the left side , then >> displays Lo P. I've changed bands and frequency's up & down but >> do not here the relays in the antenna tuner "clicking" as before. >> I went through the various relays through the MENU and I can here >> each individual relay "click" just as I did when first testing >> the KAT2 option. Nothing on CW or SSB. I switched to ANT2 which >> is my Elecraft Dummy Load with the same thing happening so it >> isn't a problem with the antenna. >> >> The KAT2 manual says that when this happens to increase the power >> which I did in steps up to 15 watts with no change. ???????? Am >> I missing a setting or does the KDSP2 board have something to do >> with this. I believe I installed the top cover correctly and have >> all the wires connected after installing the DSP boards. >> >> Any suggestions ? >> >> THANKS.........Gary WD8ICX >> > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Bill Allen-6
>I am running a RIGblaster Pro with my K2. Under QRP conditions, I have no
>problems. However, on 40m & 80m QRO with an external amp, I am finding that >I am getting serious RF getting back into the rigblaster. I have isolated >it to the rigblaster's microphone cable that connects the K2 to the >rigblaster. I am certain this is the path of the RF because I can replace >the rigblaster mic cable with the K2s regular microphone and use its PTT and >couple the sound from my headphones into the mic and get transmit without >the RF crap on output. My question is this. What is the best way to >eliminate the RF on the rigblaster's mic cable? Would several ferrite beads >do the job? Anyone else ever have this problem or have suggestions? I had similar very bad problems with RF in the audio of my two K2/100's. They were ok with just a mic on a short cable, but trying to use the soundcard audio during a contest using N1MM software produced terrible results running any more than qrp. And no, I don't have unbalanced antennas, all are dipoles or yagis far from the shack with good baluns and buried feedlines. The interface circuit used isolation transformers and had not given any problems with other radios. Here is what I did: 1) modify the K2 audio input circuit (on SSB module) by adding a RFC and bypass caps. Search the email list for notes on this, I forget exactly who posted it. This helped a LOT. 2) set the K2 mic gain to low ("1" setting) and boost external level to compensate. I also had to build a 1-transistor mic preamp (with plenty of RF bypassing) to boost the mic level going into the computer sound card somewhat. (one mic was a Heil HC-4, the other a home-made headset with an elec. mic element). It's now bulletproof at 100W. I haven't tested it with the amp on, but I think it will be ok. It helps a lot to have a second radio to listen to your signal while you are adjusting things. Tor N4OGW _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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