K2 - now with three LEDs in keycaps

[Sverre Holm-2]

For those of you who miss indicator lights on the K2 front panel, I have now
been able to add a third LED on mine. I had one for the CW zero-beat
indicator in the SPOT button, one for the RIT/XIT/SPlit in the SPLIT button
and now also have one for the audio filter in the XFIL/AFIL button.

The last involved linking the KAF2 board with the Front Panel board and I
was able to do it without loose wires between the boards. Pictures and
description can be found on http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2_LEDS.html


73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 

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[Fraser Robertson]

I did this small mod to power the KAT100 from my K2/100, to simplify wiring
when operating portable.  I added a miniature slide switch across D10 on the
main K2 board.  Closing the slideswitch makes the original K2 12V socket
into an aux 12V output.  A short cable (4") with a power plug on each end
then links between the K2 and KAT100.  Even with D10 shorted in this way, F1
and D12 give a level of reverse polarity protection should a 12V source be
plugged into the K2.  However, normal operation (aux 12V in) with full
reverse polarity protection can easily be restored by opening the slide
switch.

I made up a short PL259 cable (6") to link the K2/100 RF into the KAT100.  
Also, a short (5") cable for the data connection, with an additional 9 way
socket on a 5" cable to take a standard RS232 cable should a PC link be
required.  This is wired as per the KAT100 manual.

Finally I use a length of 25way (1.25" wide) grey ribbon cable, which wraps
around the K2/100 with KAT100 below, near the front (running behind the
KAT100 front feet and in front of the K2/100 heatsink).  This is secured to
itself using velcro underneath the KAT100.  Along with the mating back feet,
this gives single stand alone/wired unit that is very convenient for taking
out portable, without any hole drilling/brackets, or other irreversible
mods.

73 Fraser G4BJM #4368

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