K3/100 kit

[wsm-3]

I have an assembled K3/100 ordered, but have been
thinking that I could save almost enough money
to also get the ATU if I ordered the kit instead.
My problem is that I have no test equipment except
a DMM.
Can someone tell me what is required in the way of
test equipment to align and test the K3/100 kit?

Another problem to consider is that I am approaching
75 years of age, can't remember if I ate breakfast
this morning, deaf, can't see out of one eye and
blind in the other!
Which unit should I order?
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Scott,

If you have decent manual dexterity and can handle small screws, and can
follow well written instructions correctly,  then the kit should not be
a problem.  Your DMM and a *good* phillips screwdriver (plus a small
straight blade screwdriver) is all the equipment that is required - and
although some may consider it 'equipment', I think of it as creating a
working space - you should have an anti-static mat to work on and an
anti-static wrist strap.  Download the assembly manual and you can see
the equipment required is listed.

Go for it, you will not be sorry.

73,
Don W3FPR

[hidden email] wrote:

> I have an assembled K3/100 ordered, but have been
> thinking that I could save almost enough money
> to also get the ATU if I ordered the kit instead.
> My problem is that I have no test equipment except
> a DMM.
> Can someone tell me what is required in the way of
> test equipment to align and test the K3/100 kit?
>
> Another problem to consider is that I am approaching
> 75 years of age, can't remember if I ate breakfast
> this morning, deaf, can't see out of one eye and
> blind in the other!
> Which unit should I order?
> Thanks
> Scott N5SM
>  
>

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[Jim Brown-10]

On Sat, 06 Sep 2008 10:22:20 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

>Your DMM and a *good* phillips screwdriver

You really want one with a magnetic tip

>(plus a small
>straight blade screwdriver) is all the equipment that is required - and
>although some may consider it 'equipment', I think of it as creating a
>working space - you should have an anti-static mat to work on and an
>anti-static wrist strap.

There's a point in final test where you also want a 50 ohm dummy load that can
handle 5 watts for a minute or so.

It really is an easy assembly. I've built two. The first took about ten hours,
the second about two hours less.

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Don Wilhelm-4]

Jim,

That is one point where we differ.  I do not want a magnetic tip on my
workbench - anywhere.  It attracts things like cutoff leads and is just
a nuisance to me.

I do like the magnetic driver insert tips (and a power driver) for my
woodworking activities, but not for electronic assembly.

A *good* phillips screwdriver will hold a screw sufficiently with a
finger held lightly against the screw head.  For those 'long reach'
places, I move the assembly so the screwdriver remains horizontal and
the screw does not fall off.

Different strokes for different folks.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Brown wrote:
> On Sat, 06 Sep 2008 10:22:20 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
>  
>> Your DMM and a *good* phillips screwdriver
>>    
>
> You really want one with a magnetic tip
>  
>
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[Grant Youngman]

On Sep 6, 2008, at 10:50 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I have one magnetized and one not. I remember to wipe off the metal  
> bits
> before using the magnetized one ;-) I do find it makes installing  
> some of
> the screws easier,


Long ago and far far away, I purchased a little plastic container of  
some stuff call Tech-Tac.  Basically beeswax I think.  Sold with an  
Oldaker part number at the time, but no longer shown in their catalog.

It will stick anything small, magnetic or not, securely to the tip of  
a screwdriver, holding washers on screws, etc.  It's something I don't  
know how I'd manage without.  There must be something similar  
currently available.  The one small container seems to have been  
enough for a lifetime ...

Grant/NQ5T
(Patiently waiting K3 arrival)
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[Doug Faunt N6TQS [phone]]

Something like beeswax would be sorta useful when trying to install
the KSYN3's with lock washers on both sides of the board, but I managed
to do it on both of mine without such aids.  But I know how to use
needle-nose pliers.  I'm 62 years old, with a bit of peripheral
neuropathy, even in my hands, but I've also got 50+ years of
experience assembling things in tight places, so....

It is possible to assemble the K3 with the tools specified, and it's
not that hard, so no one should be put off by the discussions here.

73, doug

   From: Grant Youngman <[hidden email]>
   Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 11:04:46 -0500


   On Sep 6, 2008, at 10:50 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

   > I have one magnetized and one not. I remember to wipe off the metal  
   > bits
   > before using the magnetized one ;-) I do find it makes installing  
   > some of
   > the screws easier,


   Long ago and far far away, I purchased a little plastic container of  
   some stuff call Tech-Tac.  Basically beeswax I think.  Sold with an  
   Oldaker part number at the time, but no longer shown in their catalog.

   It will stick anything small, magnetic or not, securely to the tip of  
   a screwdriver, holding washers on screws, etc.  It's something I don't  
   know how I'd manage without.  There must be something similar  
   currently available.  The one small container seems to have been  
   enough for a lifetime ...

   Grant/NQ5T
   (Patiently waiting K3 arrival)
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[Jerry Flanders]

You can temporarily magnetize a tip by drawing it across a magnet,
then demagnetize when no longer needed by placing it in the
alternating magnetic field of a soldering gun.

Jerry W4UK

At 11:32 AM 9/6/2008, you wrote:

>Jim,
>
>That is one point where we differ.  I do not want a magnetic tip on
>my workbench - anywhere.  It attracts things like cutoff leads and
>is just a nuisance to me.
>
>I do like the magnetic driver insert tips (and a power driver) for
>my woodworking activities, but not for electronic assembly.
>
>A *good* phillips screwdriver will hold a screw sufficiently with a
>finger held lightly against the screw head.  For those 'long reach'
>places, I move the assembly so the screwdriver remains horizontal
>and the screw does not fall off.
>
>Different strokes for different folks.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>Jim Brown wrote:
>>On Sat, 06 Sep 2008 10:22:20 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Your DMM and a *good* phillips screwdriver
>>
>>You really want one with a magnetic tip
>>
>_______________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Post to: [hidden email]
>You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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>
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Don,

As a "homebrewer" I agree with your comment about magnetic tips. A tool
which I find very useful is a "Grabber", the type which has three spring
loaded prongs. With this inexpensive tool it is quite easy to place a screw
and lockwasher at the same time into those "long reach" places without the
risk of a part falling off.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Don Wilhelm wrote on Saturday, September 06, 2008 at 4:32 PM

> That is one point where we differ.  I do not want a magnetic tip on my
> workbench - anywhere.  It attracts things like cutoff leads and is just a
> nuisance to me.
>
> I do like the magnetic driver insert tips (and a power driver) for my
> woodworking activities, but not for electronic assembly.
>
> A *good* phillips screwdriver will hold a screw sufficiently with a finger
> held lightly against the screw head.  For those 'long reach' places, I
> move the assembly so the screwdriver remains horizontal and the screw does
> not fall off.
>
> Different strokes for different folks.

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