|
First, I'm delighted with the whole K3 experience. It's a brilliant
product, worth the wait. I have a few issues and suggestions: 1. Several times I found myself doing a complex assembly step in my hands while reading the instructions. An important point would show up late in the paragraph, and I wished I had read it all first (but I couldn't resist). If important points were emphasized in BOLD print, I would have been more likely to read them first. 2. The final multi-plugging of the front panel was the only challenge I experienced. I knew it would be tricky, after reading about it in the reflector. Because I knew this, I took extra time and did it with confidence. Had I NOT known it was tricky, I would have felt clumsy and frustrated. I suggest noting in the instructions that this IS a tricky step and if the builder is getting tired, take a break first, and take it SLOW. 3. VFO A encoder uses an inside-tooth lock washer on each side of its mount. This caused mine to come out slightly off-90° when tightened (using a box-end wrench). I noticed it only when I mounted the knob with the felt washer and it rubbed on one side. I spaced it out slightly further with cardboard. It's OK, but this could have been avoided somehow. 4. Headphone jack on front panel isn't tight enough. Instructions are to tighten the ring-nut only finger-tight. I have pretty strong fingers, but that doesn't do the trick. If I use a hex-nut, will it squeeze the panel too much? 5. K3 is advertised as a no-solder kit, so it should not require soldering (or a $100 crimp tool) to make the Powerpole connection. That should be done at the factory. I soldered mine, using high temp. quickly, so it wouldn't wick much solder up the cable. A builder who does not have good soldering skills is likely to have trouble. 6. KUSB adapter instructions make no mention of Mac application. They should mention that the Prolific.com site has driver download for Mac OSX as well as other PCs, and that it is necessary. 7. When I turn down the compression, the power goes down with it. It should be equalized. 8. When I tune out of a ham band to listen elsewhere, then hit band switch, band switch will not return to the nearby ham band, but to the out-of-band frequency. Others reported this a few days ago. I expect that will get fixed in firmware. 9. I did frequency calibration by zero-beat method with WWV. I tuned the wrong way and didn't know it would take many turns. I didn't write down the original setting, so I got "lost". I waited until I had a steadier WWV signal, then went in the other direction and got it perfect. I suggest that the instructions say that it may take many turns of the knob, and that you should write down the original setting first. In conclusion, the only issue I'm left with is the loose headphone jack. Not too bad! I have a Kenwood MC-43S fist mike with the 8-pin connector standard. I plugged it in and it works fine. My first QSO was with another K3 at the super-station in Visalia :-) I also checked into the Sunday Elecraft SSB Net. I've gotten all excellent audio reports. I just retired my Ten Tec Triton IV. I feel like Rip Van Winkle, awaking from the 1970's. Windy KM5Q_______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
|
CONTENTS DELETED
The author has deleted this message.
|
|
<quote author="Ron D'Eau Claire">
So far, all the cases of a "loose" headphone washer that I've seen were because the front panel pc board wasn't completely seated in the front panel sheet metal. Rather, one edge of the microphone connector is binding in the hole in the sheet metal, keeping the board from fitting all the way against the panel. The Front Panel pc board will flex quite easily when the screws are tightened and it doesn't take to cause the washer on the nearby PHONES jack to be loose. Figure 37 shows exactly how the microphone connector should appear when it's properly seated. The text at the top of page 29 describes how to seat it properly if it is binding. Ron, I too had the headphone jack problem. After talking with tech support I reveisited the assembly and am certain it's perfect, but there is still a gap between the shoulder of the headphone jack and the front panel. I measured it with a shim guage but, unfortunately have forgotten the number. In any case I found a thin washer (from another 1/4" jack) that filled the gap perfectly and intalled it over the jack threads behind the panel. Perhaps there was as parts variation from the vendor that could account for the gap.
---
Chuck, AE4CW |
|
In reply to this post by AC7AC
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> So far, all the cases of a "loose" headphone washer that I've seen were > because the front panel pc board wasn't completely seated in the front panel > sheet metal. Rather, one edge of the microphone connector is binding in the > hole in the sheet metal, keeping the board from fitting all the way against > the panel. The Front Panel pc board will flex quite easily when the screws > are tightened and it doesn't take to cause the washer on the nearby PHONES > jack to be loose. Figure 37 shows exactly how the microphone connector > should appear when it's properly seated. The text at the top of page 29 > describes how to seat it properly if it is binding. This is *exactly* what happened to me. The mic connector shoulder was originally seated correctly. Later on, I had to take a couple of screws out because while reviewing recent steps, I realized I'd used the wrong washers. Apparently that was when the board hung up on the shoulder of the mic connector. I didn't realize it until it was time to do the final FP assembly. Once I backed up and got it right, all the holes lined up perfectly. > Regarding the assembly manual: I made two notes as I worked with the intention of pointing them out to Ron. When I got around to it and re-read the instruction, it turned out the problems were a technical difficulty in my mind. FWIW: While doing the initial 10W SSB adjustments, I was into the dummy load on 14294. I began to get ERR TXF messages and it wouldn't transmit when I tapped XMIT. Thanks to W0YK, I finally figured out that I had put it into AM mode, probably while messing around with TEST mode. Not sure what it was telling me, but it's working fine now. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2008 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 08 - www.cqp.org _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
| Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |
