K3 Assembly - rear panel
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I got my K3 yesterday (SN 132, order confirmation 5/1). I am happily
assembling it, but I have come across a possible problem. I am on page 21, the 4th step where the bottom of the rear panel is fastened to the rf board via 4-40 pan head screws. The screw holes in the rear panel at the bottom have not been countersunk. This causes the screws to protrude. The holes in the top of the rear panel have been counter sunk. So the questions are: A, should the holes have been countersunk? B) should I proceed with assembly and while awaiting a new panel? C) Should I countersink the holes myself? Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1177 - Release Date: 12/7/2007 1:11 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K3 Assembly - rear panel
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I was confused by this, too. The bottom uses pan-head screws throughout.
The top and sides use countersunk screws. I found that if I looked really carefully at the instructions it said so, but I had been doing a lot of countersunk screws and just assumed that would continue... Dick, K6KR -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Gordon & Lois Duff Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 7:45 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel I got my K3 yesterday (SN 132, order confirmation 5/1). I am happily assembling it, but I have come across a possible problem. I am on page 21, the 4th step where the bottom of the rear panel is fastened to the rf board via 4-40 pan head screws. The screw holes in the rear panel at the bottom have not been countersunk. This causes the screws to protrude. The holes in the top of the rear panel have been counter sunk. So the questions are: A, should the holes have been countersunk? B) should I proceed with assembly and while awaiting a new panel? C) Should I countersink the holes myself? Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1177 - Release Date: 12/7/2007 1:11 PM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Gordon & Lois Duff
Gordon,
Pan head screws do not use countersunk holes - the head is flat at the junction with the screw threads and rounded (a frying pan shaped rounding) on the top. Be certain you are using the correct screws. Those requiring a countersink are flathead screws. 73, Don W3FPR Gordon & Lois Duff wrote: > I got my K3 yesterday (SN 132, order confirmation 5/1). I am happily > assembling it, but I have come across a possible problem. > > > > I am on page 21, the 4th step where the bottom of the rear panel is fastened > to the rf board via 4-40 pan head screws. The screw holes in the rear > panel at the bottom have not been countersunk. This causes the screws to > protrude. The holes in the top of the rear panel have been counter sunk. > So the questions are: A, should the holes have been countersunk? B) > should I proceed with assembly and while awaiting a new panel? C) Should I > countersink the holes myself? > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Gordon & Lois Duff
Gordon:
>I am on page 21, the 4th step where the bottom of the rear panel is fastened >to the rf board via 4-40 pan head screws. The screw holes in the rear >panel at the bottom have not been countersunk. This causes the screws to >protrude. The holes in the top of the rear panel have been counter sunk. >So the questions are: A, should the holes have been countersunk? B) >should I proceed with assembly and while awaiting a new panel? C) Should I >countersink the holes myself? I believe you're told to use PAN HEAD screws on the bottom of the case... 73, Tom N0SS _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Dick Dievendorff
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Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size >screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads. > >Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause >short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice >situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact >hardware to use, but you really have to read the steps! > Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: K3 Assembly - rear panel
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In reply to this post by Gordon & Lois Duff
> Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit?
Ian, They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading "pan head" which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of packaging could have helped me. Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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I initially made the EXACT same mistake ... but after a few moments of
reflection, realizing that something just didn't 'smell right', I re-read the assembly manual carefully ... and sorted it out. Not a big deal! -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Gordon & Lois Duff Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:08 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel > Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? Ian, They are not packaged separately. While it is a bit of an effort to located the correct screw amongst the others, my problem was in not reading "pan head" which was in bold letters and assuming flat head. No amount of packaging could have helped me. Gordon, KA2NLM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1178 - Release Date: 12/8/2007 11:59 AM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ------------------------------------------------------------ This email message, including any attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is proprietary, confidential, and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure, or distribution is prohibited. If you have received this email in error please notify the sender by return email and delete the original message. Please note, the recipient should check this email and any attachments for the presence of viruses. The organization accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email. ================================= _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by gm3sek
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In reply to this post by gm3sek
Hi All,
One bag of parts, the "miscellaneous bag" I think, has most of the screws used in the assembly. Other accessories and parts do often include additional hardware necessary for assembly of that part. But generally, you are digging screws from the general package. With 20/20 hindsight, I would recommend that you separate all the hardware carefully into muffin tin compartments. I spent way too much time carefully measuring each screw with a ruler--the 3/16 inch screws are hard to distinguish from the 1/4 inch, etc. You have flat head screws, black pan head screws, zinc pan head screws, and in varying sizes. Then you have different types of washers also. Most other parts are readily identifiable, but the screws and washers can be a little confusing. You probably will have a few extra as well, and the manual makes note of that fact. Also, when you add the KPA3 shield and amp, you will actually change a few pieces of hardware. So take care when you get to that step. As noted earlier, the bottom panels are not countersunk, and use panhead screws rather than flathead screws. While I'm at it, I will pass on a couple of very small glitches I ran into. One was attaching the plastic cover which goes over the LCD display. I had a little trouble exactly matching the holes in the cover with the holes on the front panel. It made it difficult to get the screws to catch, but eventually it all worked. When attaching the control board to the front panel, I found it a bit tricky to get the microphone jack to slide fully through the hole in the front panel. The manual also makes mention of this. I didn't have to do any reaming or anything, but it does take a little careful jiggling to get the microphone connector to fully pass through the hole. Finally, when mounting the KPA3 to the shield, I think you will find that it is very difficult to get your fingers (fat or otherwise) in where you can get the screws to seat into the hole for tightening. You probably would be wise to use a screwdriver that is magnetic so that you can move the screw down over the hole and begin to screw it in. The required washer can be places over the hole by just sliding them into position using the small slots on the side where the screwholes are located. But those slots aren't big enough to do the same with the screw itself. But using a magnetic tipped screwdriver also can cause a small problem as you approach the screwhole where you have already placed the washer. The washer wants to move due to the magnetic attraction. So you have to "aim and shoot" somewhat deftly. But it works. Somebody else probably has a much simpler solution to this. Overall, I think the K3 goes together quite nicely. Everything fits! Just be sure to mate and seat connectors properly. You are told when a connector might not seat 100%. The little jumper cables, like the ones from the coax connectors, have pin conncetors on them, and you need to make sure you fully mate those as well. Dave W7AQK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ian White GM3SEK" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 1:14 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly - rear panel > Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: >>If you read the step or look at the illustrations you'll see what size >>screw to use and exactly where to use PAN heads and FLAT heads. >> >>Mixing up hardware will do more than produce an ugly K3, it can cause >>short circuits, bent PC boards and a variety of other not-so-nice >>situations. That's why each step is very specific about the exact hardware >>to use, but you really have to read the steps! >> > > Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? > > > -- > > 73 from Ian GM3SEK > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by AC7AC
This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but:
if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3 is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized). Mike W5FTD _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by AC7AC
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>Ian GM3SEK asked: > >Are the different types of screws packaged separately in the kit? > >--------------------------- > >No, the folks organizing the kit packaged the parts roughly by assembly such >a front panel, KIO3 Interface, etc. The assembly manual illustrated parts >list is broken down to show what parts are in each package. In this case, >both flat head screws and pan head screws are in the "K3 Miscellaneous Bag" >containing much of the enclosure hardware. > >That's why we specify the specific size and type of screw and show a picture >of where each one goes throughout the manual. > >In this case I think it's clear more emphasis on the bottom screws being PAN >head screws is justified and should appear in future revisions of the >manual. > >However, it's very important to read and check off every step in the >procedure and, if something doesn't fit right, the first thing to do is to >go back and read the step and look at the picture again. Thanks, Ron and everyone. It won't be a problem here, as both the assembly work and the completed rig will be shared with my wife, who is sure to enjoy sorting out the screws. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Corboy - Poteet
In a recent message, Corboy-Poteet <[hidden email]> wrote ...
>This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: >if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would >be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. Ah, but mind you don't erase the firmware ;-) 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK ------ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Corboy - Poteet
> This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: > if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would > be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3 > is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the > screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats > trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized). > Mike W5FTD ================================ I have found that a small long nose pliers works well for holding nuts or machine screws in place while applying torque to the other end. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW K3 # (n-?) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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One advantage of the magnetized driver tip is that it will
simultaneously hold both the screw and the lock washer in those cases which require a lock washer under the screw head. The hex nuts can be a bother; made me wish Elecraft had the old plastic tool that Heathkit used to include that gripped the hex nut while the screw was started. Luckily, the vast majority of screws in the K3 go into prethreaded bushings. Of course some of these you also install but in most cases it's on a board or panel that is not mounted in the box yet so it isn't a problem. Mike W5FTD >> This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: >> if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would >> be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. The K3 >> is not tiny but it is close quarters inside. In many cases having the >> screwdriver magnetic field hold the screw (and the washer) sure beats >> trying to place the screw with your fingers (as I finally realized). >> Mike W5FTD > ================================ > I have found that a small long nose pliers works well for holding nuts or > machine screws in place while applying torque to the other end. > 73 > Rick Dettinger > K7MW > K3 # (n-?) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: K3 Assembly - rear panel
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In reply to this post by w7aqk
A very inexpensive tool which I have found to be ideal for getting screws,
nuts and washers into tight corners is a thing called a 'Grabber', the one that I have resembles a fat plastic trim tool 4 1/2 inches long and 1/4 inch diameter. At one end is a spring loaded plunger which when pushed down by one's thumb causes three spring legs to poke out of the other end which are used to hold a screw, a screw plus washer, a nut or any other small item up to 1/2 inch across. It becomes dead easy to fit hardware in difficult to reach places using a 'Grabber'. It cost me about two US dollars IIRC maybe 30 years ago from an outfit similar to Radio Shack. 73, Geoff GM4ESD Dave Yarnes <[hidden email]> wrote on Sunday, December 09, 2007 5:28 PM > Finally, when mounting the KPA3 to the shield, I think you will find that > it is very difficult to get your fingers (fat or otherwise) in where you > can get the screws to seat into the hole for tightening. You probably > would be wise to use a screwdriver that is magnetic so that you can move > the screw down over the hole and begin to screw it in. <snip> _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by David Pratt-2
You should be fine unless you're storing a copy of the firmware on a floppy
disk near your assembly area. ;-) Craig NZ0R -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of David Pratt Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 12:19 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly In a recent message, Corboy-Poteet <[hidden email]> wrote ... >This may be common sense and/or mentioned in the Assembly Manual but: >if your Phillips screwdriver does not have a magnetized tip it would >be a good idea to find a magnet and lightly magnetize the tip. Ah, but mind you don't erase the firmware ;-) 73 -- David G4DMP Leeds, England, UK ------ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Corboy - Poteet
It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head
is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of screwdrivers available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good indication. I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a tight fit, the result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The K3 flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will slip easily with a #0 or 'sharp' #1. I prefer the better brands like Craftsmen and Proto. OSH (Orchards) has a house brand that is good. I picked up a couple with 6" shank which was helpful when I installed the kpa3 shield. A well fitting screwdriver will hold an undamaged philips screw without needing a magnet. Al WA6VNN **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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>It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head >is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's >worth the rip >to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a >large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of >screwdrivers >available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good >indication. I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a >tight fit, the >result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The K3 >flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will >slip easily with >a #0 or 'sharp' #1. You can lightly touch the tip to a fine grinding wheel to fix that on a cheap screwdriver. >I prefer the better brands like Craftsmen and Proto. OSH (Orchards) has a >house brand that is good. I picked up a couple with 6" shank which >was helpful >when I installed the kpa3 shield. My favorite brand for high quality is Wiha www.WihaTools.com which are made in Germany. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by AJSOENKE
On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 16:39:31 EST, you wrote:
>It may also be helpful to mention that using the correct size philips head >is very important in maintaining the appearance of the rig. It's worth the rip >to the tool store with a screw in your pocket to get a new driver with a >large enough tip to fit snuggly. There is such a wide variety of screwdrivers >available, that even the size number printed on the driver is not a good >indication. >I've had many a #1 driver with too sharp a tip to get a tight fit, the >result is slippage and a damaged screw head and loose screw. The screw drivers with the sharp tip are Reid & Prince screw drivers. When you buy a screw driver be sure you are getting a Philips screw driver. The Philips screw drivers can be recognized by the blunt or squared off tip. >The K3 >flatheads are very shallow because of the type of head and they will slip easily with >a #0 or 'sharp' #1. [snip] Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. http://www.n5ge.com http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
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