K3 Buffer Mod

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K3 Buffer Mod

James Denneny
I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.

I have never attempted as delicate a procedure as this.  I am soliciting suggestions on how to do this without damaging the rf board.

Jim
K7EG
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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

KK7P
> I have never attempted as delicate a procedure as this.  I am soliciting suggestions on how to do this without damaging the rf board.

I always use two (2) small temp-controlled soldering irons (Hakko 936).
  The idea is to heat both ends simultaneously to melt the solder
without dwelling too long on the board.  The parts likely have a small
amount of adhesive under them so once the solder is melted, I push one
end with a soldering iron while holding the other end still.  This
breaks the part free from the adhesive.

Be certain the soldering irons aren't set too hot. 650 F is about right,
700F is probably OK, higher is a Bad Idea.  There is little thermal mass
here.  The worst problem will be heat flow from the grounded end of one
of the two resistors.

Or, you may have an iron with a wide enough tip to heat both ends of the
part - that will work too, just keep the temperature under control :-)

I haven't had breakfast yet so I'm not thinking clearly; the RF board
you damage maybe your own; YMMV, ...

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

Jack Smith-6
In reply to this post by James Denneny
Jim

A Hakko tweezer handpiece makes removing surface mount parts easy, but
it's a pricey solution for just a couple parts.

Depending on the tools you have and the size of the part, you might
consider using a pair of small cutters to snip  the resistors in half
before removing it. Then you can use a standard soldering iron and
solder wick to clean the pads up. You're not trying to salvage the part,
of course.

Surface mount  resistors are made with a ceramic substrate so they
shatter easily. That's what you want to do--shatter the ceramic so that
you can work on each end individually.

The practicality of this approach depends on the part size, how much
free room you have to access it and the size of your cutters. It works
well for 1206 parts and OK for 805 size resistors, but I have not tried
it with smaller devices. If there's a risk of damaging other components
or a PCB  trace, of course, don't use this approach.


Jack


Jim Denneny wrote:

> I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
>
> I have never attempted as delicate a procedure as this.  I am soliciting suggestions on how to do this without damaging the rf board.
>
> Jim
> K7EG
> _______________________________________________
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>  
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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

Mike S-8
In reply to this post by James Denneny
At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
>I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
>performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small,
>surface-mount resistors.

Chip-quick (
http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is great
for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which you
use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device
removal easy. It doesn't take much.

Without a rework station, it's about the only thing you can use for
larger devices.

If you were experienced in working with SMT, then it might be overkill
for replacing just a resistor. But even if you've done SMT before,
there's still the danger of lifting a pad when using just a soldering
iron.

Good stuff if you want to do it yourself with minimal risk to an
expensive board.

For soldering the new component, I just make sure the pads are lightly
tinned, hold the component in place with a toothpick, and lightly touch
each joint with the iron.  

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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

Bill W4ZV
In reply to this post by James Denneny

James Denneny wrote
I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
This is about the simplest SMD work one can do, but I would *strongly* recommend you find a scrap SMD board and practice removing and soldering a few resistors first.  Almost any scrap board (like an old modem) should have some resistors.  I've not had any problems removing components like Rs and Cs using a single Circuit Specialists clone of the Hakko 936 with a 1.6mm chisel tip at 700 degrees.  I found the resistors easily slide off after alternately heating each side, but you definitely should practice first.
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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

Mike Harris-9
G'day,

What is this mod?

regards,

Mike VP8NO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill W4ZV" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod


|
|
|
| James Denneny wrote:
| >
| > I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
performance.
| > It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
| >
|
| This is about the simplest SMD work one can do, but I would *strongly*
| recommend you find a scrap SMD board and practice removing and soldering
a
| few resistors first.  Almost any scrap board (like an old modem) should
have
| some resistors.  I've not had any problems removing components like Rs
and
| Cs using a single Circuit Specialists clone of the Hakko 936 with a
1.6mm
| chisel tip at 700 degrees.  I found the resistors easily slide off after
| alternately heating each side, but you definitely should practice first.
|
| --
| View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740658.html
| Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
|
| _______________________________________________
| Elecraft mailing list
| Post to: [hidden email]
| You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
| Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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|
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
| Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.6/1625 - Release Date:
21/08/2008 06:04
|
|
|

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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

Tom AK2B
In reply to this post by Mike S-8

<quote author="Mike S-8">
At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
>I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
>performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small,
>surface-mount resistors.

Chip-quick (
http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is great
for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which you
use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device
removal easy. It doesn't take much.

Although I am a big fan of ChipQuik you should try it on an old PC board before you try it on something that might break your heart if you fail. ChipQuik can send a part flying (along with a trail of molten ChipQuik) if the part has been tacked down with an adhesive and requires a little pressure. Once you get the hang of it, on a multipin IC, it can be a life saver. I don't think I would use it on a resistor or cap though. I would go with the single iron back and forth or the two iron method.

Tom, AK2B
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Re: K3 Buffer Mod

n6wg
There's one easy trick I learned a while back.
Actually add solder to each end of the R or C
to be removed.  This creates a larger thermal
mass that doesn't cool and harden as quickly,
and gives you time to get the other end melted
too.  Then the part slides right off.

As has been recommended before, practice first
on some junk pc board with SMD parts on it.
Really easy technique.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG



----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom AK2B" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod


>
>
>
> At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
> >I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
> >performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small,
> >surface-mount resistors.
>
> Chip-quick (
> http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is
great
> for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which
you
> use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device
> removal easy. It doesn't take much.
>
> Although I am a big fan of ChipQuik you should try it on an old PC
board
> before you try it on something that might break your heart if you
fail.
> ChipQuik can send a part flying (along with a trail of molten
ChipQuik) if
> the part has been tacked down with an adhesive and requires a little
> pressure. Once you get the hang of it, on a multipin IC, it can be a
life
> saver. I don't think I would use it on a resistor or cap though. I
would go
> with the single iron back and forth or the two iron method.
>
> Tom, AK2B
> --
> View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740797.html

> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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RE: K3 Buffer Mod

N2TK
In reply to this post by Bill W4ZV
 Should I expect any negative impacts if I used regular resistors in place
of SM resistors for this mod?

N2TK, Tony


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 12:52 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod




James Denneny wrote:
>
> I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX performance.
> It involves exchanging two, extremely small, surface-mount resistors.
>

This is about the simplest SMD work one can do, but I would *strongly*
recommend you find a scrap SMD board and practice removing and soldering a
few resistors first.  Almost any scrap board (like an old modem) should have
some resistors.  I've not had any problems removing components like Rs and
Cs using a single Circuit Specialists clone of the Hakko 936 with a 1.6mm
chisel tip at 700 degrees.  I found the resistors easily slide off after
alternately heating each side, but you definitely should practice first.

--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740658.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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