K3 Circuit Board Traces
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Here's a question for experienced ex-K2 types who have done
Elecraft-approved mods involving replacement of SMTs on the main circuit board of the K3: Can I expect working with the K3 boards to be similar to working with the K2 circuit boards so far as lifting or damage to traces are concerned? Or are the traces smaller/lighter/thinner/more fragile on the K3 than on the K2 and accordingly require much greater caution? I've watched a good training video for working with SMTs but my concern is with the board and not with the process. Even after nearly 48 years of kit-building including two all-up K2/100s, I'm still intimidated by the thought of those danged SMTs and can't decide whether or not I want to take 'em on. 73, Gary, VE1RGB _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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> I've watched a good training video for working with SMTs but my
> concern is with the board and not with the process. Even after > nearly 48 years of kit-building including two all-up K2/100s, I'm > still intimidated by the thought of those danged SMTs and can't > decide whether or not I want to take 'em on. Soldering SMT is easier than soldering through-hole. I have now done several SMT boards and I love it. I have even taught the kids at school (we are building several softrock boards) and they like it better too. (We are talking 11-year-olds here.) We have used both the hot-air and "bake it in a toaster oven" techniques to solder the boards. No problem either way. You will want a good magnifier with plenty of light, tweezers, solder paste, and either a hot-air gun or a toaster oven. Apply the paste with a syringe. Pre-loaded syringes are available from Cash Olson. Here is his web site with materials and techniques: http://www.zianet.com/erg/SMT_Soldering.html I did try soldering the devices using a fine-tip soldering iron. It is *<MUCH>* more difficult than using solder paste with hot air or a toaster oven. (You use a toaster oven because it will heat up faster than a regular oven. You preheat the board to about 90C and then crank it up to about 250C and watch for the solder paste to turn to solder and flow out.) -- 73 de Brian, WB6RQN Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Has anyone in the UK come across similar items as those on this page (http://www.zianet.com/erg/SMT_Soldering.html)?
I need to make the K3 mods and was wondering if an investment in a heat gun would be worthwhile (it's not like SMT is going to go away!). 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- A good cook is like a sorceress who dispenses happiness. -Elsa Schiaparelli, fashion designer (1890-1973) On 21 Jun 2008, at 20:23, Brian Lloyd wrote: >> I've watched a good training video for working with SMTs but my >> concern is with the board and not with the process. Even after >> nearly 48 years of kit-building including two all-up K2/100s, I'm >> still intimidated by the thought of those danged SMTs and can't >> decide whether or not I want to take 'em on. > > Soldering SMT is easier than soldering through-hole. I have now done > several SMT boards and I love it. I have even taught the kids at > school (we are building several softrock boards) and they like it > better too. (We are talking 11-year-olds here.) We have used both > the hot-air and "bake it in a toaster oven" techniques to solder the > boards. No problem either way. > > You will want a good magnifier with plenty of light, tweezers, > solder paste, and either a hot-air gun or a toaster oven. Apply the > paste with a syringe. Pre-loaded syringes are available from Cash > Olson. Here is his web site with materials and techniques: > > http://www.zianet.com/erg/SMT_Soldering.html > > I did try soldering the devices using a fine-tip soldering iron. It > is *<MUCH>* more difficult than using solder paste with hot air or a > toaster oven. > > (You use a toaster oven because it will heat up faster than a > regular oven. You preheat the board to about 90C and then crank it > up to about 250C and watch for the solder paste to turn to solder > and flow out.) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by M0XDF
Screwfix do a very good heat gun for approx £15 - I have one and they
are very good, I just didn't think it would be hot enough. Also I'd assumed the guns intended for this purpose had a very small nozzle. -- Either that wallpaper goes, or I do. - last words of Oscar Wild On 22 Jun 2008, at 09:36, David Cutter wrote: > Some good stuff on that site. Be interested in your responses. I > was thinking of cutting up an old kettle with a flat bottom heating > plate, run it from low voltage. There might be a mug warmer for > vehicle use. I see there is a USB heater on Ebay. Spec says it > goes to 50-60C which isn't really enough. Don't know about a cheap > heat gun. RS do a shrink heat gun but it's pricey. Hair dryer > might do it. > > David > G3UNA > >> Has anyone in the UK come across similar items as those on this >> page (http://www.zianet.com/erg/SMT_Soldering.html)? >> >> I need to make the K3 mods and was wondering if an investment in a >> heat gun would be worthwhile (it's not like SMT is going to go >> away!). >> 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 >> -- > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by M0XDF
what a brilliant idea -pity, cos I was getting myself worked up to buy
a new toy - er I mean tool! Great Peter, thanks. -- If you have the same ideas as everybody else but have them one week earlier than everyone else then you will be hailed as a visionary. But if you have them five years earlier you will be named a lunatic. -Barry Jones, politician, author (1932- ) On 22 Jun 2008, at 15:53, Peter Howson wrote: > David > > I saw a simple tip several years ago in an article on SMD in Model > Engineers > Workshop. Take a spade crimp, remove the plastic bit and "screw" the > crimp on to > a fine soldering iron bit. Either squeeze or prise open the spade to > fit the SMD > component - you can now heat both ends at the same time and lift off > with > tweezers. > > This has worked for me using an Antex soldering station which is now > over 20 > years old and still going strong. > > I remembered I scanned a copy so here it is. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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