K3 Filters: 2.7 or 2.8???

[George-122]

I'm wondering which filter would produce the highest transmitted audio fidelity; the 2.8 khz or the 2.7 khz?  My natural voice quality can use all the help it can get!  It seems the 2.8 is a higher quality filter, because it is an Inrad, but wouldn't its steeper skirts tend to "pinch" the transmitted audio?  I suspect there would be little discernable difference.

George, N4YM
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[David King-11]

I'm going to ask what has to be the most basic CW question you're going
to encounter this year, but it's got me stumped.

In preparation for bringing my K2 project to a conclusion, I purchased
my first key.  Actually, a brand new in-the box Bencher Iambic Paddle BY-1.

It came with three spade clips on the bottom, to be attached to the
appropriate cord...to be supplied by me.

I finally found what appears to be the "standard" normal wiring
configuration for said cord...(I am going into a 3.5 mm stereo plug for
my K2)...where the tip is dit, the small ring is dah and the sleeve or
back ring on the plug shaft is ground/common/whatever.

So, I set it up with the wire for the left paddle going to the tip, the
wire for the right paddle going to the "middle" ring on the plug, and
the ground/common going to the shaft or back ring of the plug.

When I plug it in, I get the dit on my K2 when I push the left
paddle...but when I push the right, or dah paddle, I get nothing.  If I
switch the spade clips on the bottom of the BY-1, it works the other
way...the right paddle keys the radio, but the left paddle doesn't.

Thinking I had a bad wiring connection, I tested it for continuity and
the wiring is good and the paddles make/break the connection for both
circuits to the plug.

Do I have something wired wrong?
So, is there a menu setting I should be changing on the K2?
Is there a black box I'm supposed to put between the BY-1 and my machine?
Or, am I just the dumbest person on the block?  (Please don't answer
that one...it was supposed to be rhetorical.  I've already decided that
I am dumber than a post after not being able to get any RF output during
the 40 alignment stage, and thanks to a lot of patience on Gary's part
at Elecraft Support, I finally tracked it down to having switched one
green and one red wire on T3 in holes A and D.  Amazing how much better
it worked with that wired correctly)

David King
KE7EKA
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[David King-11]

Thanks for the answers.  I knew it had to be something simple like that
that I was overlooking .

Now, if I can get my code recognition higher than one-word-per-hour!

dk
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